MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
When ever i put my amp on it goes into safty with the way i have my subs wired. I have three JL 10's, what is the correct way to wire these?
"safty"
- Thread starter MYSHO1
- Start date
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SHO92
New Member
Whats the ohm rating of the subs, what can the amp handle, and how do you have the subs wired? Some combination of those three things is not compatible and is making the amp go into safe mode.
MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
The 10W0 is a potent 10-inch subwoofer designed to extract maximum performance from small to moderate power levels. Highly flexible in its application, this speaker works extremely well in sealed, ported and even bandpass designs.
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 125 Watts
Voice Coil: 1.38" diameter, 6-layer, Kapton former
Available Configurations: 4 ohm or 8 ohm (Single Voice Coil)
Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.34" (8.6 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.50-0.90 cu.ft. (14.0-25.5 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.90-1.50 cu.ft. (25.5-42.5 liters)
VRC™ Technology: YES
I have them all ran together, ( 1 postive, 1 Neg ) into a bridged amp...I am new at this..
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 125 Watts
Voice Coil: 1.38" diameter, 6-layer, Kapton former
Available Configurations: 4 ohm or 8 ohm (Single Voice Coil)
Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.34" (8.6 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.50-0.90 cu.ft. (14.0-25.5 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.90-1.50 cu.ft. (25.5-42.5 liters)
VRC™ Technology: YES
I have them all ran together, ( 1 postive, 1 Neg ) into a bridged amp...I am new at this..
stevemainian
New Member
Which terminal on the battery did you connect your power wire too?
MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
+, i am not that new haha. I had a box with 2 of teh 10's but i just finished the custom tri-box.
stevemainian
New Member
The only thing left is wiring. Something is connected incorrectly somewhere. Check your grounding wire good. Most likley your power wire. That or something is shorted. Recheck all wiring. This is the only thing that would cause the safety light to turn on(that and an overheating amp)
MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
well the thing is... i can hook it up to one sub and its fine.... all three she sh*ts out..
NiNeTy Fo SHO
No-mo-SHO Man
My best guess from reading it this.
2 subs (4 ohms each) wired with both positives and both negatives together will get you a 2 ohm load on the amp. Now, if your amp is 2 ohm stable (fairly common), it will run fine with a 2 ohm load, but it will go into safe mode when anything less than a 2 ohm load is applied.
Now with 3 - 4 ohm subs wired with all positives together and all negatives together will yield a 4/3 or 1.3333 ohm load, which is less than 2 which would cause the amp to go into safe mode.
Try this, unhook one sub and only run 2. (run positive wires together and negatives together) If it runs fine, the 3rd sub is dropping the ohm load too much.
If 2 work, you would have to either purchase a 1 ohm stable amp, or wire the subs differently...and the only other way to wire them so they all get the same power would be to wire them all in series. This would result in a 12 ohm load. You would not want this, running 2 of the subs would be better.
2 subs (4 ohms each) wired with both positives and both negatives together will get you a 2 ohm load on the amp. Now, if your amp is 2 ohm stable (fairly common), it will run fine with a 2 ohm load, but it will go into safe mode when anything less than a 2 ohm load is applied.
Now with 3 - 4 ohm subs wired with all positives together and all negatives together will yield a 4/3 or 1.3333 ohm load, which is less than 2 which would cause the amp to go into safe mode.
Try this, unhook one sub and only run 2. (run positive wires together and negatives together) If it runs fine, the 3rd sub is dropping the ohm load too much.
If 2 work, you would have to either purchase a 1 ohm stable amp, or wire the subs differently...and the only other way to wire them so they all get the same power would be to wire them all in series. This would result in a 12 ohm load. You would not want this, running 2 of the subs would be better.
SHO92
New Member
You can also wires subs in a combination of series/parallel, to get the desired ohm load. Check out www.the12volt.com for information purtaining to this and other wiring needs in a 12 volt environment, it's an excellet site.
MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
i unplugged one sub and it works fine now...
SHO92
New Member
Try hooking that sub back up and unplugging a different one to make sure there isn't a dead short on the sub. Definitely check out 12volt, and figure out what combo of series parallel will get you close to what you need. Also check the amp specs to see what ohm load it is stable to. BTW, the symbol for Ohms is the Greek Letter Omega, looks like an upside down horseshoe.
NiNeTy Fo SHO
No-mo-SHO Man
I would have to say different. I had a crunch amp. It is true that it is not the best amplifier out there by far, but the one I had had no problems pushing 2-12" rockfords. (Mine was a crunch 1000 I believe)
I had purchase mine b/c it was 1 ohm stable.
I had purchase mine b/c it was 1 ohm stable.
MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
well what would you say the best amp for the money out there is?
NiNeTy Fo SHO
No-mo-SHO Man
Well, if you want to run 3 - 4 ohm subs...then you will need a 1 ohm stable amp. According to your 2nd post here, they handle 125 rms. So you would want to look at an amplifier that puts out around 400-500 rms @ 1 ohm. This will be sure to push the 3 subs, but not too much so you dont blow them.
(Keep in mind a cheap amp that says 100 watts, may only really push 25 watts, while better (more expensive) amps that say 50 watts, may push more like 150 watts) Got to keep things straight.
What amp is the best for the money....it all depends on the options you are looking for. 1 ohm stable, 400-500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm, etc
(Keep in mind a cheap amp that says 100 watts, may only really push 25 watts, while better (more expensive) amps that say 50 watts, may push more like 150 watts) Got to keep things straight.
What amp is the best for the money....it all depends on the options you are looking for. 1 ohm stable, 400-500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm, etc
MYSHO1
PiCkLe DaNcE!
well i have alot more money going into the car on other things, i would like to keep it under $200.
Try your luck on this little guy:
Kicker Amp Auction
I had an XS-50 a while back and it was solid and loud at only 2 ohm. These were cheater amps back in the day, and if you're lucky you can land it for less than $200. My old XS-50 sold for about $250. It's luck of the draw.
I'm sure others will chime in with alternatives, but for the money, these old Kickers are excellent performers.
Kicker Amp Auction
I had an XS-50 a while back and it was solid and loud at only 2 ohm. These were cheater amps back in the day, and if you're lucky you can land it for less than $200. My old XS-50 sold for about $250. It's luck of the draw.
I'm sure others will chime in with alternatives, but for the money, these old Kickers are excellent performers.
RStalveyARFF
too many shos
Try to find a refurbed JL 500/1
That amp is only 1.5 ohm-stable. Almost there but not quite, although I know JL subs are often run in threes. It might be okay, but the load is still lower than what the amp is rated for, if only by a small fraction. Safety-wise and reliability-wise, I'd be looking for a good 1 ohm-stable amp.
