RWD Conversion

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Black91SHO

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Smart man. lol However, they've got some great deals now on small, high-efficiency lithium car batteries. It was way cheaper when I was pricing it our a few years ago. I can't remember the website name, but maybe I can find it in my bookmarks.

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rubydist

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does anyone know if the oil pan bolt pattern is the same between the SHO motor and a regular Vulcan 3.0?

not at all the same. the SHO motor has an aluminum oil pan which you want to retain for added structural support anyway.
 

mrecoolgar

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I am a fan of the hybrid cars.
I just bought this last Sep.
A bit upscale over a Prius. : )
And it gets 3x the mpgs of my 2005 F150 King Ranch.
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mrecoolgar

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The Mustang II's mostly were not popular.
I always liked them, especially the Cobras or the King Cobras.
This will be an excellent vehicle when finished.
 

Power Surge

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The Mustang II's mostly were not popular.
I always liked them, especially the Cobras or the King Cobras.
This will be an excellent vehicle when finished.

I like the less popular Fords. Mustang IIs are one of my favorite cars. I've had almost 10 of them now, including a 78 I put a supercharged Lightning 5.4 into.
 

rubydist

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OMG, not only is it a MII but its a canary too!
 

Power Surge

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Just wondering if anyone has used a C4 on the back of an SHO motor with the canfield adapter. Or any automatic for that matter.....just curious how the extra thickness of the adapter was accounted for.
 
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nice, I have mine bolted to an aod out of a mustang with the canfield adapter.
IMG 20160524 232907 zpsrkgsle1t

Once I get my flywheel redrilled, I am going to have the machine shop make me an adapter that is the same thickness as the adapter. This will go in-between the flywheel and crank. That way the toque converter and starter will be seated properly.
 

rubydist

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wouldn't it be less expensive and less work to make an adapter that just pushes the torque converter back the thickness of the adapter. that way you wouldn't have to mess with the ring gear to make the starter fit, right?
 

Power Surge

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Right....if you space the flywheel back, you'd need to move the starter back as well....or have a seriously long bendix drive for it.

I don't think just having an adapter made that's the same thickness as the spacer is going to do the job. That would only work if you were moving the trans back on the original engine. Using a different engine, it's very unlikely that the flywheel will be in the same place in relation to the converter as the original motor.
 

rubydist

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no, the starter is mounted to the bell housing, so if you space the flywheel back you avoid having to space the starter differently from the way the factory intended.
 
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starter bolts to the trans..that's why you have to push the flywheel back 1/2". Most desiel swap adapter plates either come with this spacer or its build directly into the flywheel
 

Power Surge

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no, the starter is mounted to the bell housing, so if you space the flywheel back you avoid having to space the starter differently from the way the factory intended.

Duh. Brain fart. lol

Even still.... my point is that you still have to calculate where the flywheel is going to be in relation to the starter and the converter. Because you are not bolting the transmission to the same engine it was made for. If you were just moving the trans back a half inch off the original motor, then yes, all you'd need to do is space the flywheel back a half inch. But using a different motor... you have to see how far back the ring gear is from the block face for both the original, and SHO motor, and then add or subtract from that half inch spacer accordingly.
 

Power Surge

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That's the job of the adapter. Centers everything up

No, you're missing my point.

Okay.... let's say I'm using a C4 off of a 302. On that 302, the back edge of the ring gear of the flywheel is 1 inch from the back edge of the block (made up number btw). Obviously, if I were using that same 302 and just moved the trans back 1/2 inch, I would just need a 1/2 adapter for the flywheel.

Now... were are NOT using that 302. We are using an SHO motor. Regardless of what flywheel we use (the SHO one or the 302 one), the distance from the block face to the edge of the ring gear is most likely not going to be 1 inch. Let's say it's 1.25". We make a 1/2" flywheel spacer, and now our flywheel is 1/4" back too far. Or the distance is .75". We use a 1/2" flywheel spacer, and now our flywheel is 1/4" forward too much. Which of course affects starter engagement, and torque converter location.

See what I mean? You can't change the motor setup and just say "we're using a 1/2" trans spacer, so we just move the flywheel back 1/2 inch" You have to compare the block to flywheel relationship between the old and new motor and then add or subtract to that 1/2" flywheel spacer.
 

Off Road SHO

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Simple solution is to have a blank flywheel cut to match whatever flywheel that transmission had originally plus the extra or less center height as needed and then of course drilled for the SHO's 1 odd bolt pattern.

Tom
 

shomethe$$$

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Power Surge has a good point, from my old notes, from the back of the SHO block face to the flywheel mating surface on the crank(back of the crank) I measure between 14.85-15mm

1. Back of the SHO MTX flywheel mating surface to the friction surface, its 25mm
A. Breaking the flywheel down, mating surface to where the backside of the bolt head would touch the flywheel, its 12mm
B. Where the flywheel bolt mounts to the friction surface, its 13mm
C. So you add this up you get back to a 25mm offset flywheel from back of the crank to the friction surface
2. Transmission mating surface to the beginning of the input shaft spline its 31mm

So if you used a 1/2" spacer with a 1/2" adapter plate and everything lined up, you just got lucky. From experience, I used a 5/8"(16.15mm) adapter plate but the flywheel spacer ended up being about 17.5mm even the trans mating surface offset of 31mm to the input shaft spline was exactly the same as the MTXIV trans and using the same MTX flywheel. Most people would mount the starter to the trans. And for this I needed to 1/8" spacer (shim) to push the SHO starter away from the SHO flywheel.
 
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