Runs fine, then dies, warm and cold

[Dr.Evil]

if this is not an easy fix this freaking thing is being sold. I have not gone one week sence I bought it in January that I have not had some sort of problem. I think it hates me. cuss rant Anyway, so this morning I am letting it warm up for a min or two while I am brushing my teeth. as soon as I open the door and go into the garage, I hear a sputter, some other noises, then it dies. Like it saw me comming and didn't want to go. so I start it up and back out of the driveway, and it dies while in reverse. It makes it all the way to work fine, no problems. Then I leave work to go somewhere (it is warm) and it dies at the first stop light. Then I am just crusin down the road and it starts to buck and sputter under accelleration for no apparent reason. Weird thing is it is not all the time, only sometimes. well on my way home it was getting worse, CE light was flashing, but it made it home. ran the codes and got a lot to do with the computer (I put in a 89 comp and an LMK a couple months ago) so I swaped back the stock comp and seems to have just made it worse. The codes were as follows: (some may have been in stored mem, Im not sure):
14: Ignition Profile pickup failure
15: EEC (PCM) Read Only Memory test failed & Power Interruption to computer memory or eec (PCM) Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
19: Erratic RPM signal at idle/too low & Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor failure
22: Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor out of range
67: Neutral Pressure Switch circut failure
There were all at KOEO, engine would not idle for KOER. Any ideas before I take a bomb bat to it? shrug headbang rant cuss

 

[sdpatt]

Sounds like a loose or damaged electrical connection to either the PCM (computer) or the DIS module. Check the ground strap to the intake and the negative cable from the battery to the keep alive power supply to the PCM. Did you disconnect the battery when you swapped computers? If not, bad thing. DId you reset the idle programming after the computer swap?

The car probably doesn't hate you. It probably just has not been maintained or serviced as necessary to prevent this kind of frustration.

<small>[ June 20, 2003, 08:36 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[Dr.Evil]

sdpatt:
Sounds like a loose or damaged electrical connection to either the PCM (computer) or the DIS module. Check the ground strap to the intake and the negative cable from the battery to the keep alive power supply to the PCM. Did you disconnect the battery when you swapped computers? If not, bad thing. DId you reset the idle programming after the computer swap?

The car probably doesn't hate you. It probably just has not been maintained or serviced as necessary to prevent this kind of frustration.

No I did not disconect the battery. I have swaped different comps in and out many times without disconnecting it and experienced no problems. How do you reset the idle programming?

<small>[ June 20, 2003, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: Dr.Evil ]</small>

 

[Dr.Evil]

Any othr thoughts? I disconected and reconneced every connection I could get at and it still doesn't work...could it be the cam or crank position sensors?

 

[Dr.Evil]

how do you check to see if the computer is bad?

 

[autobahnsho]

ALWAYS unplug the battery when doing computer stuff. Whether it's in your car or your office.. Electronics don't like sudden jolts of power when they're plugged in, and even though the (car, laptop or desktop) is turned off it still has power running through it.

To reset idle turn the car on, run ALL of the power stuff: max a/c w/ max fan, ALL the lights with fogs, radio up, defrosters, etc... for a few minutes. This lets the computer play around with the idle speed while max power is being sucked..

You might want to read all the stuff under "Maintenance" at shotimes.com

Good luck!

 

[Dr.Evil]

Now it will not start at all. I trys to, the tach jumps all over the place, I can hear the injectors shooting when I hit the gas, but it will not start. I have checked every possiable connection that I could find and still nothing. Just to try, I disconnected the battery and pluged in the comp with the LPM. I turned the key on and the fan came on...? When instaling the lpm it said if the fan came on it was done wrong, but it was working fine till I tried to re-install it? I am stumped and really dont want to take it to the shop. thanks for ANY IDEAS! shrug

 

[Dr.Evil]

I replaced the MAP sensor (or what ever it is called, because it doesnt go to the manifold) and that seemed to fix it. SO I was going for a fairly long test drive, and then all of a sudden when I was turning (clutch engaged) it died. Then it died again, only with the clutch engaged. I get a code 67 which has to do with the clutch or nuetral pressure switch. So where is the circut/switch? I think that might fix it for good. I could not find it in Chiltons.
Thanks