running sluggish

[newshofan]

Ok so my car had been running fine. And my friends car ran out of gas. He doesn't like my driving so he drove my car to get him some gas. I was with him. He has a habbit of staying on the gas pedal a lot. And doesn't slow over bumps. I baby the car with occaisonly speeding down the higway or taking of at redlight. Ever since he as driven it its been running very sluggish. Like the motor doesn't have no power and growls a lot. Itl run in 4th going 35 at 1000 rpm and feel like its going to quit. Does fine at idle and runs fine starting off it almost seems like it wants more throttle. Drove up and down lookout mtn and it absolutley hated the climb and didn't want to go around at the top either. Any ideas

 

[NP SHO]

I believe he's running an ATX Zach. To the OP - have you tried turning the OD off? Even if that doesn't solve the problem it's less likely to run in that high gear/low RPM situation. At the very least the car would be more driveable while you figure out the root cause of the issue. Just my .02...

 

[notbange]

"newshofan" has a v8 SHO. That's why it's in the v8 section!

 

[NP SHO]

I was pretty sure he was running a Gen3, but we all know people don't always post where they're supposed to. lol

 

[notbange]

I know it's a 3rd gen cause I've seen it with my own eyes. I've aligned it, its got my used tires on it and I've fixed a flat on his old tires.

 

[newshofan]

I know it's a 3rd gen cause I've seen it with my own eyes. I've aligned it, its got my used tires on it and I've fixed a flat on his old tires.

Tires are running great to ride pretty good tot I've taken them to about 115. Gotta go easy over big dips and bumps though.
And yes it is a gen 3. I tried running with overdrive off. Helped in some situation did better climbing if I was in second or third. But even on level ground it seems to act up. Would leaky valve covers cause any trouble with sensors or anything.

 

[SHO U UP]

Any "check engine" light info? Sounds like a failed COP really. Are the cams welded though??

 

[stephen newberg]

First thing to check is that the IRMC is working and the butterflies opening. This often causes a bog down sort of effect past 3000 rpm or so.

pax, smn

 

[1998v8sho]

Is it running rough, hard, feel like it is misfiring? The IRMC is a good spot to look at.


How is your transmission?

 

[newshofan]

I have no check engine light. The irmc had threw a light awhile back and i had a shop that cleared the code for me. Came back on so I played around with it and its been of for over a month. And it feels fine over say 2500 rpm if on highway or like speed. Andthere is a missfire like feel. That's kinda how it runs most of the time though at idle is the only time you can tell that though. There was an ealier post about the engine kinda sounding like a powerstroke does only noticible from inside though. If that helps. Its almost always sounded like that. I put some lucas in yesterday to see if that helps. And no cams are not welded yet.

 

[SHO U UP]

First thing I'd do is remove the vanity cover, blip the throttle and watch to see if the IMRC is functioning by watching the LIM move by the cable it's connected to. Once that is verified, remove the plug connectors at the front most coils while you're right there.
Notice if there is any change in the motor. If it nearly dies, or misfires worse, then that can be a sign of a functioning COP. If you do remove a connector and the motor doesn't change how it idles, that may be your culprit. Of course you can't use this method on the rear ones with the motor running. Keep us posted bud.

 

[newshofan]

Ok thanks I will try this tommarrow. I noticed earlier that when in neautral or park the motor doesn't feel bogged at all could dirty low/dirty trans fluid or filter cause this

 

[1998v8sho]

Weld those cams welded!!! Work on the other issues after the welds. The method that SHO U UP suggested works very well if the check engine light is not on yet. Good luck and do give an update.

 

[newshofan]

Ok so I did the above. The motor never died when I pulled conector to the cop but did change idle slightly the same result with each one. The cable to the irmc on the other hand I neverdid se the cable pul the lim as I believe it is called the cable is very loose to the touch as well. The lady I bought the car from said that cop #5 was replaced posibly another one and they were rotated wish I could get to the back and test those. And also could misfire cause the motor to shake as if motor mount was bad?

 

[stephen newberg]

If the cable to the IRMC box is not moving, that is your problem. As the engine speed increases it should open up to get more air, and that is not happening, hence the sluggish response. Or, that is at least one of a number of other problems you may also have.

Its easily fixed. Trace back the rocker for the line, pull it all the way open manually, and wire it into that position with either wire or a strong tie wrap. Then go see if you still have troubles, and if so, you have another problem as well. If it is gone, you are done and can just leave the secondaries wired open. It causes no problems at all though you may in very cold weather find the car a bit harder to start.

You still need to find out about the cam sprockets right away and get them welded if they are not already done, though.

pax, smn

 

[newshofan]

Ok great. And if I were to change that box how hard would it be to do that. And yea I have/had the money to go to atl and get them done but. I just lost my job so I have to make sure I can pay the bills till I get a job. Kills me cause its not just the cams its the leaky valve covers to. Oil kills all kinds of things if it gets on the wrong part.

 

[stephen newberg]

Normally what dies first are the plastic gears inside the box. You might be able to find a used one at a car wrecker parts place. Sometimes the cable itself breaks, either just inside the box or as it goes through the grommet. You can take the box off, look inside, and find out. But if you are saving money, cheaper by far to get rid of it completely. It really has no actual results on this motor the way it did on the V6. Wiring it open is a common and well accepted fix to any IRMC problems. Some people even haul the butterflies out of the intake entirely and close up their axle mounting holes.

If you go to a decent person (like Kirk or a couple of others you can get info about here) for the cam weld job, I am sure they will fix the leaky covers as part of the overall work.

pax, smn

 

[newshofan]

I had checked with doug lewis over at ford performance in atl and they said they would do the whole service for me I wish a new a good welder and a good mechanic herw in town that we could go to work on it one night. And get it done a lot cheaper

 

[newshofan]

Wired the secondarys. I used some electrical wire for a temporary since it was all I had on hand till I can get a good zip tie or something. Where is the best place to secure it with? And the car drove quite abit different seemed like it had more pickup and combined with the pulled sarc fuse. Very enjoyable. However on some hills and steady speed on and of the pedal you can stil feel the motor bog some not near as much though. I think I'm dealing with a failing cop in the rear now.

 

[stephen newberg]

I do not remember what I tied mine down to, though I do remember it took a bit of looking about in there to find something good for a long term post. I used a large, very heavy duty zip tie, and it has held fine now for 5 or 6 years.

Sounds like you have addressed part of the problem, but still have something else wrong as well. More details needed on when you are getting the bogged down feel now, after you ditch the officer of the law.

pax, smn