Rough idle

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jymwhi

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About 2 weeks ago I purchased a 1992 SHO MTX. Due to my work schedule I haven’t had the opportunity to really drive the car until today. I drove it for about 5 hours and put some 300 miles on it. It drove really well but it did exhibit the following:

1. When the car is up to normal operating temperature and with either the AC, Defroster, or Climate control on, when the AC compressor turns on, the car all but shuts off. The idle will drop down momentarily to about 450 to 550 RPM range, the RPM’s will then kick up to around 1200 and then this cycle repeats and will continue as long as the EATC is in either of these positions. This does not happen when all other accessories are on ie … lights, rear window defogger, fog lights. Does this sound like a alternator/charging system problem or perhaps a AC compressor drawing too much load or some sensor not picking up the idle speed when the unit kicks in.

2. After about 2 hours of driving I stopped at shopping center. I drove the car to 3 or 4 places and the went into eat lunch. When I came back out to start the car it fired up but ran rough for about 15-25 seconds. And then the idle smoothed out. I drove it to another location, went in for about 20 minutes, came out and it took 2 tries to start the car. On the second try, I pushed the accelerator pedal about 1/3 of the way to the floor and she fired up. Any ideas?

3. Also, during the above starting scenario, while just observing the car from the outside, I noticed water droplets from FWD end of both mufflers. I figured the exhaust would of dried out after 3 hours of highway driving. Any clues?

4. A little history on this car. It has 67K, 1 owner and has most likely spent more time sitting the past few months than on the road. The car drives very smooth and runs like a scalded dog when the throttle is mashed to the floor board. The engine idle after warmed up is 1000-1200 RPM. Is this too high?

Thanks!

Jim White
 

jimtash

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I too have expierenced the same problem of the rpm's jumping around at idle although mine does not stay above 1000 rpm but settles back to the normal 650. Mine will also stall sometimes if the A/C is on or the steering is turned all the way to one side. I think you might have a bad throttle position sensor or you might need to reset your idle. Did you pull the codes from the computer? It might also be a good idea to ask the person you bought it off of if the 60K tune-up was done and to go ahead and replace your spark plugs and wires. Just because the car only has 67K miles does not mean that parts will not wear. Remember that it is ten years old and age takes a toll just as wear will. Get used to the hard starting as sometimes mine needs the gas pushed down to start and my motor only has about 3000 miles on it. I think the fuel pump could be the culprit. I believe that they have one way check valves that apparently fail after sometime allowing fuel to escape back into the tank(my 1989 still has the original fuel pump with over 164,000 miles). This means that it will take a few seconds for the fuel to reach the injectors before the car will start because it has further to travel. You might want to consider that. I think your problems are minor and it will just take sometime to sort things out.
 

sdpatt

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Try resetting the idle programming. Search on "idle" and "reset."


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Scott
20011063558168047757321.jpg


1991, 255K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/poly, Alum front SFB, SS front/rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
6 disc CD, Class II hitch, Silver award at SHOklahoma Car Show
 

jymwhi

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It has not had the 60K maintenace done. The spark plug wire were replaced at the 36K ( Jan 98).

As far as setting/resetting the idle, where exactly do I look to find out how to do that? It only does it when the AC compressor kicks on.

Thanks again for the replies!

Jim White
 

jimtash

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According to my Chilton's manual:
1) Turn A/C off.
2) Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3) Unplug spout line at the distributor.
4) Disconnect both hoses at the throttle body and plug. The manual also states that a special tool is used to connect to the ports that the hoses connected to. I have no idea what it is.
5) Disconnect the harness at the IAC valve which is located on the throttle body.
6) Start and idle engine
7) You can adjust the idle by turning the screw located above the throttle cable return spring.
8) Turn the engine off and then repeat steps 6 and 7.
9) Turn engine off and reconnect all hoses and wires.
Again I don't know what the special tool is. The manual gives a Ford part number. T89P-9600-AH, but also says or equivalent so it may be a common tool. Maybe it is used to plug up the ports on the throttle body when the hoses are diconnected? Someone answer that please.
 

sdpatt

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No, not that one. Do not ever touch the hard stop screw for the throttle plate.

I was referring to the reset that must be done every time the battery is disconnected. This is done by disconnecting the EEC stay alive power cable (if you know where that is) or the negative terminal of the battery and turning on the headlight switch to provide a good path to ground. Wait for about 15 minutes, turn off the headlight switch and reconnect the battery. Start the engine. Allow the idle to settle for about 20 seconds. Within the first 70 seconds after starting the engine, add all the accessory loads that the engine will see at idle: shifter to D (ATX), A/C to MAX A/C, headlights ON, slowly turn steering wheel about a turn from side to side. This will teach the EEC the range of travel that the idle air control (IAC) valve must move to accomodate the engine loads at idle. If this doesn't correct the problem, you may have to either clean or replace the IAC valve.

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 02-11-2002).]
 

jimtash

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Scott,

I am just going by what the manual says. I have never had to reset the idle on my SHO but on my 1987 ****** GT I would have to disconnect the IAC harness and rev the engine for 1 minute over 2000 rpms. Apparently that would clear the idle program from the computer. Then I could adjust the idle to wherever I wanted it via the adjustment screw and reconnect the IAC. From that point forward the idle would stay where I set it unless the TPS was bad. In that case it would idle at 1500 rpms. I like your method better than Chilton's and will remember to try it.
 

Jayman

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Bear in mind that the SHO engines do not have a 'distributor' and that the idle,is computer controlled and cannot be adjusted. My '93' does exactly the same thing but idles absolutelty perfectly when the compressor is disengaged. Funny enough I have the extended crank problem too on a warm engine after about 20 min sit. I will try Scotts procedure first and of course check the computer for codes.
 

jimtash

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When I would diconnect the IAC and set the idle, it means I was setting base idle. The computer in fact did control the idle but would not let the engine idle below what I would set. My distributor was the same way. You would diconnect the SPOUT connector to set the base timing. The computer would control the timing when the SPOUT was reconnected. My ****** had the same EEC-IV engine control system as our SHO's, just not a distributorless ignition with crank and cam position sensors.
 

sdpatt

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If you take a close look at the idle stop screw on the throttle body, you will see a yellow (or other color) mark on the jam nut. This is to indicate if the stop screw settting has been altered. The manuals I have referenced state that this set screw should not be altered. Rather than change the stop screw setting, you should remove the inlet air hose and check or clean the throttle plate seating area in the throttle body bore.

Yes, with the SPOUT disconnected, or even the IAC valve electrical connector disconnected, you will find the base idle speed. But unless you properly teach the EEC the range of loads the IAC must account for, it won't help the engine idle properly.

Scott
 

ckinart

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does anyone know what a typical idle range is for the SHO? mine sits at around 1000 rpm when it's warm... is that too high? i suppose it's relative to the amount of loading you provide during the idle "re-learn", right?
 

sdpatt

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The computer aims for 900 rpm. The difference most of us see from that is probably due to the fact that the tachometer is not a precision gauge nor is it calibrated. If the idle is below this level, it could be that the reason above or the idle programming has not been properly set.

Scott
 

jymwhi

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Scott,

Thanks a lot. I just tried the idle reset as you described and it cleared my problem. Just for courisity, is the IAB and IAC the samething?

Thanks again!

Jim White
 

KYSHO

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Hey sdpatt is that your sho for sale on ebay? If not I think someone stole your pic.



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1992 White SHO Grey Int.
All Stock except Audio System, LeBra, and Driving Lights.

130,000 miles
 
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