Rod bearing question.....again

[Green Sho]

hey guys i ordered the rod bearing kit from mark at rcm on sunday night and got it today at 10am I'm very happy with his quick responses and quick shipping. I just had one quick question though.......what do you guys use for assembly ****....I simply forgot that it didnt' come with the kit as everything else did.....
I just wanna know so i can pick it up at autozone when i swing over to rent a torque wrench cause mine's broken .......I'm hopin even with this snow on the ground that fell last night and the exhaust stud i broke last night i can still finish it today!

Thanks!

 

[sho'd]

just go to your local autoparts dealer and ask for some assembly lub, i have some by permatex, it's red like transmission fluid, but sticky and thick like mollasas, a little goes a long way. it's reletivly cheap as well 5 bucks or so a bottle, i believe it's a 2 oz bottle. the stuff i got i think was for assembling cam shafts. that stuff is good.

 

[jedhead]

I just used Mobil 1 10W-30. I have used STP in the past on Ford, Chevy and Chrysler V8.

Bob

 

[Green Sho]

awesome thats just what i needed to know thanks guys......anyone know a trick to getting the pan down? I counted 14 nuts and bolts from the pan and the 2 bolts going into the tranny housing......but its still solid on there even after i hammered on it with a plastic hammer....the last person who had it apart used way too much gasket maker....there was alot oozing out of the sides before i cleared it away..

 

[sho'd]

as far as the gasket goes, there is only a seal at the front and rear of the pan, and along the sides some kinda gasket maker rtv stuff is used, thats why there is so much of it when it gets pushed out, i cannot remember how many bolts are on there, but i had to really work at getting mine off as well, i just grapped the pand and worked it back and forth until finnaly it gave, and did i smash my damn knuckles on that one. good luck. soon as the pan is off, it's all downhill, really easy part.

 

[somedude_001]

there is a tranny bolt tucked away at the rear driverside of the oil pan. if you have a automatic this is very hard to see. i've missed it a few times.

and sometimes the goo is very strong holding the pan on there... I wonder if the pan even needs bolts once that crap hardens.

 

[Green Sho]

haha yeah i know right that stuff is tough...but i got it off...it just needed some persuasion lol

I just pulled off my first set of bearings.....they dont look to bad...alittle copper showing...not too much though....which makes me happy and mad at the same time.....happy cause i know my crank should be ok..... but mad cause this might not have been the problem at all....but I guess I can look at it this way....it had to be done anyways for piece of mind...

well im off to autozone for some acetone, assembly ****, a torque wrench, and an exhaust stud....or just a bolt and nut if I can't find one

wish me luck

 

[AREA 91]

For the exhaust studs, go to the HELP rack.

 

[93rev2sev]

For the exhaust studs, goto the hardware store and buy STAINLESS BOLTS and cut the heads off to make them studs...and don't forget the antiseize lubricant. I think they are m12

Those HELP! studs are of POOR quality and will rust to nothing in a year (if you were from Michigan, anyways)

 

[Green Sho]

well im from mass so I think just about the same lol thanks for the advise though..i havent decided what I'm gonna do yet with it cause I would have to buy a tap set as well....and I was thinking of just putting a bolt and nut on it...but that would make it really hard to get off the next time...if there's even clearance anyways.

the torque wrench I got has the lowest setting of 25 ft/lbs.....so you guys think it will be ok to torque the bearings to that first and then up to 35-37? the ones that have around 70 inch pounds I'm just gonna have to go snug with them seeing as i cant find a torque wrench that'll go that low......and the local autozone also didnt even have assembly ****, so I just picked up some lucas oil stablizer figuring that'll be ok

I think i might check the mains while I'm down there too.....

 

[93rev2sev]

You don't have to buy a tap set. Just buy the correct Tap when you buy the studs(bolts with heads cut off). You will also need to buy a handle, or use your very powerful drill on very slow speed and back it out every 1/4 turn. I actually used the drill's motor as a brake and turned the drill handle a little bit at a time.

Edit, unless you have a really good reason, it might not be wise to remove main caps. You won't be able to get the top bearing shell out without removing the timing belt and oil pump and disconnecting the tranny from the block (just remembered, the rear main seal carrier would have to be removed too) so you can lower the crank. Then you have to try to get the crank back into place...bad idea if engine is still in car. Just leave em be if you can.

 

[Green Sho]

yeah good point....i just figured why not buy a whole set just to have it....but that would be stupid i guess.....thanks again for the advise....and do you happen to know the torque specs on the mains? I searched but did not find anything....or should I even bother looking at the mains?

 

[93rev2sev]

Read my edit please.

 

[Green Sho]

yeah i guess I'll just hope that the rod bearings are in fact the problem. Thanks alot man!

 

[sho'd]

yeah i am with 93rev2sev, unless u have a good reason to think they are bad, i would leave the mains be, they rarely go, i don't think i have herd of them going to be honest, don't qoute me on that, the oil stabalizer should be fine, as for the tap another good way is to hammer a nut on the end of it, and use a ratchet with extention to retap, thats what i did, worked out pretty good. good luck bud.