Reviving the quest for A/C . . .

[98SF19]

Gen 3 sho and Stephen (and anyone else with no AC), do you both know the reason for your dead AC? I was told my RCC was the culprit.

I got a bunch of help from shorod last spring I think, and even removed my RCC, opened it up alongside a '96 unit I got from Eric (assumed working) to inspect solder spots and see if there was a way to configured it for use in my '98 - the wiring and power input is a bit different. We decided to stick with the 98 as there was more to check there.

I got continuity between cycling switch and RCC and switch was getting only 5v, but I didn't go as far as checking voltage @ RCC. Running 12v to switch kicks on compressor and things seemed to run normally. Another user fourofdiamonds I think, traced wiring and found some fried near the fusebox. I inspected mine near all hot spots to the best of my ability but found no fried wiring. Getting those RCCs in or out is no joke but it seems my next step is verifying voltage FROM RCC going to cycling switch.

 

[zak]

Are there capacitors on the board? If so are they bulging or burst (see badcaps.net). Any spare RCCs to be had on car-part.com or hollanderparts.com?

 

[gamefanatic]

Just to figure out where you are at, what is it that is not working on your A/C? What make suspect the RCC?

 

[98SF19]

Well I'll try not to make this too terribly long . . .

zak, the 98 has a big capacitor that appears ok, the 96 I think has a few small ones. https://www.dropbox.com/s/vdx1pd7h10aghym/20160803_232435.jpg?dl=0 It's been a little while since I was on the beat for this one, but I did several searches on the net and couldn't find squat. IIRC Nick (bullgeek) was going to hit some junk yards where he suspected some 98-99 SLOs there had auto climate control, but I never heard back. That's when Eric offered me his '96 units. Other than that, several local dealers all pointed to Bob Allen Ford in Kansas, but they were going for $500 and up from what I remember. I e-mailed staff there, thinking they had a source for remanning malfunctioning RCCs, but basically got a response of "we don't have any more and don't plan on getting any more."

Game, I had a shop run the AC diag flowchart and they came up with the RCC. I ran this with my meter https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x2zsynf2nisrt9/RCC code 195 wiring check.JPG?dl=0 and it passed. As stated, when I put 12v directly from battery to cycling switch (at pink wire I believe), I hear that lovely "click" of the compressor and air gets cold (well, at least cool), but going through ICP, cycling switch only gets 5v. So that's where I am - either I have a damaged wire or the RCC isn't sending 12v to cycling switch.

Before I get back to AC work, I need to get coils and plugs in, and assuming that's the answer to current woes, I'll be looking to replace cats or perhaps new y-pipe. <$$$sigh$$$> My desire to grab info related to others' AC was due to the discussion in the other thread.

 

[stephen newberg]

Mine is pretty simple. Most of the tubing has rotted out. The car was living in Nova Scotia until late 2004 and they salt the roads heavily over the winter. The cost of replacing it all is really high, so I have thus far just ignored it. Here on Vancouver Island the temps are high enough to consider wanting AC for about 2 weeks in August. Maybe. Not infrequently there will be no AC needed days in a summer at all.

pax, smn

 

[zak]

I will never do business with Bob Allen Ford for NOS parts again, not ever.

So, most yards don't bother to list every module that might be in some 20 year old Taurus they hauled in, most just list the engine and sometimes the transmission. Use those to find 98-99 SHOs in your area. Do you have the part no. for the RCC ? Sometimes that will indicate what other cars its used on.

On my 95, my AC stopped working because a pin corroded in one of the connectors between the module and the AC clutch coil, so trace those carefully - cleaned the pin and it worked for another 80 K miles (with one clutch reshimming, in fact check the gap as I think the large gap may have created/required more current draw to close the clutch and thus the pin oxidizing, might be off base here though).

 

[98SF19]

Not infrequently there will be no AC needed days in a summer at all

-I need to move there-

Zak, I did search by part number several times, but I think the disparity there is being driven by just what you describe - junk yards not scouring for part numbers of every item. I deshimmed the compressor a few years ago and was hoping that would be the answer - AC was still working then but only sporadically. It was not the answer.

Sounds like you've had a bad experience with Bob Allen as well. The funny thing is that a local elected official named Bob Allen was ousted years ago after soliciting an undercover cop . . . in a public restroom. So the name already carries some trepidation on my part. lol

 

[zak]

XF1H19E616CA ? F7DH-19E616-AA?

 

[98SF19]

I wanna say F8DZ18C612AA but I'm not sure if I used the same last 2 letter or not. I think this is for a 99.

 

[stephen newberg]

-I need to move there-

Best place I have ever been.

pax, smn

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

In my case A/C stopped working because (never works on my SHO since I have it but I studied his case) a hose is passing in front of the motor (right motor side in the lower part of it) and water+salt+heat do their job = $$$ (rotten away in the metal/rubber jonction).

Doing major works on it some time ago (I retreived the 2 rads and the surge tank at the same time), I was then able to replace another hose going to heater core (which has rotten near the the crankshaft pulley, SLO hoses rot too at this place).

The SLO lost all his pressure when I have to replace the coolant rad last fall (major coolant leak caused by a too much rusted rad clamp). But it was in working order for years before.

I can be mistaken but I'm with Mr Newberg, A/C will not work only with "Vent" and the reason is that when you push air (and heat) into feet, they have very often humidity onto them (in many states and Canada you will find a lot of snow there), then the car push dry air into this area to eliminate humidity into the car. And Gen 2 SLO had the same behavior (at least in 1990).

 

[gamefanatic]

Well one thing to keep in mind is that there may be differences between years and locations sold. In my case I have both a California and Arizona sold car. Both do not cycle the A/C in the vent and floor positions.

Having said that AllData wants to confirm what you believe to be true where the clutch will engage when temps are above 10°C/50°F:


Though this breakdown doesn't take into account what temperature you are trying to output, as I think it's gear towards if you are intending to cool. In my case, if I am trying to heat on floor then I get no clutch. If I am trying to cool on floor I will have engagement.

A little further down in the "Operation and Description" shows "Manual Override". This means you have pressed one of the representing buttons rather than just leaving it on "auto" or MAX.

VENT
Pressing the VENT icon button will show the VENT icon and the set temperature in the display window.

• The system will operate with outside air in the vent function.
• The A/C clutch will be turned OFF.

FLOOR
Pressing the FLOOR icon button will show the FLOOR icon and the set temperature in the display window.

• The system will distribute outside air through the heater outlet floor duct with a small bleed to the A/C side window demister and hoses and the windshield defroster hose nozzle.
• The A/C clutch will be turned OFF.

FLOOR & DEFROST
Pressing the FLOOR & DEFROST icon button will show the FLOOR and DEFROST icons and set temperature in the display window.

• The system distributes outside air equally between the windshield defroster hose nozzle and the heat outlet floor duct with a small bleed out the A/C side window demister and hoses.
• The A/C clutch will operate if the ambient temperature is approximately 10°C (50°F) and above.

 

[stephen newberg]

OK, that is very interesting. I have not used the SHO in a month so it is due for a ride anyway. I will take it out tomorrow and try the settings above. Forecast is for 10C, which is in the temp range listed. I will set the interior temp to 20C, which is, IIRC, about 68F. I can report back on Tuesday morning with results, I suspect.

pax, smn

 

[stephen newberg]

Well, I am afraid I am not going to be of any help with this. My AC is so dead it seems the clutch no longer engages no matter what setting I am at. Sorry. It remains my memory it only did not engage before when on vent, but that is only memory and it from some time ago. Many years being the last time I messed with it. So, not really trustworthy.

pax, smn

 

[outatyme357]

The thermal fuse likely opened if you suffered a compressor scroll failure like I did - metal would be all throughout the system as well - if you provided your own labor you could likely replace all the components (Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, Accumulator / Receiver Dryer, Liquid line / orifice tube) for under $400. - As I did recently.

 

[stephen newberg]

Not worth it to me. As noted before, I almost never need the AC anyway. And its sort of fun to actually be back to old fashioned sports car air conditioning: roll down the windows and go fast.

pax, smn

 

[98SF19]

Stephen, you might as well cut out all that dead weight and get a compressor bypass pulley. I had considered that a little while ago, but in FL, you gotta keep hope alive for A/C, and also avoiding fogged windows during summer rain showers - that's as much a factor as just combatting the heat.

 

[stephen newberg]

Its an idea. Might be worth a few HP. Has anyone seen any of these compressor bypass pulleys for the Gen III SHO?

pax, smn

 

[99sho-time]

I could of sworn at one point my car did NOT cycle the clutch when i had heat/feet position on as well it not doing so with vent only. I know that my tranny wasn't happy with the so called "actual oe part MAF" from rockauto.
actual as im typing this I think my torque converter was locking and unlocking for no reason with that wrong maf installed. i have to test it.

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

(For the MAF : find a good F-150 in a scrapyard 98/99. Open the large black intake tubing, you will find an extremely clean and compatible factory MAF into it. You can also keep the black support screw to it, it will allow you to put a factory cone filter for Triton motor 5.0/5.7L directly to your MAF to create an HAI. Never tryed, but probably a good sound upgrade.)

EDIT : Watch to take a MAF with the same part number. Some are differents and could affect air/fuel ratio...