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rbruso

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Is there an easy way to hot-wire the fuel pump to run continuously with the motor off?

Ground the fuel pump at the self test connector. Alligator clips or a spade connector in that terminal and a good ground at the other end of the wire.

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Then turn the key to run the pump.
 
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BaySHO Performance

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Sean, I'm not sure why you want to get rid of the old gas. There's a popular myth (IMHO) that gas goes bad. I recently took the five year old gas out of my track car and ran it in my daily driver with no problems.
 

typhoon5000

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Sean, I'm not sure why you want to get rid of the old gas. There's a popular myth (IMHO) that gas goes bad. I recently took the five year old gas out of my track car and ran it in my daily driver with no problems.

Gas is oxidative and starts to degrade after only 14 days. It mostly causes resin deposits in fuel systems, especially when exposed to air over time (ie. injectors, carbs). The volatile components of gas itself are very evaporative which can cause a lower octane & efficiency over time as well. If the engine is ran and the fuel is flowed through the system once and awhile, this will prevent the gumming resin from forming. It's a good idea to put new gas in it anyways to have the proper octane rating, especially with the higher compression of the Yamahammer.

Reference
 
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Geek SHO

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Thanks for the tips, guys. I had to buy two 5 gallon gas cans. The four year old stuff might have worked, but with my new engine I just sweat and bled into, I'll stay on the safe side and put new 93 octane in. I ran a hose up into the rear passenger door where I sat the cans so I could monitor their progress.

I'm installing the axles as I type.

Anyone want 10 gallons of 91 octane, California vintage 2006?
 

RonPorter

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Gas is oxidative and starts to degrade after only 14 days. It mostly causes resin deposits in fuel systems, especially when exposed to air over time (ie. injectors, carbs). The volatile components of gas itself are very evaporative which can cause a lower octane & efficiency over time as well. If the engine is ran and the fuel is flowed through the system once and awhile, this will prevent the gumming resin from forming. It's a good idea to put new gas in it anyways to have the proper octane rating, especially with the higher compression of the Yamahammer.

Reference

"Higher compression" of the V6 is irrelevant. 87 octane is fine for 90% of most conditions. And you wouldn't feel the difference on the last 10% of weird conditions anyway. Ford says there's only a 3% torque difference under those conditions.

FWIW, I filled the Fiero GT up to the gas cap in 5/99. Fired it up for the first time in 5/05. With a fresh battery, it cranked almost immediately. Ran just fine.
 

Geek SHO

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Still being lazy with the pictures, but all energy is being put into the car, not pretty pictures of it.

HOWEVER, it is RUNNING for the first time in four (4) [FOUR!] years! However again, it is leaking oil, and I'm pretty sure I know where. Unfortunately since I don't know a SHO block quite like the back of my hand, I did not notice that there was a plug in where the fuel pressure switch should go. This plug does not have any way for any bit to interface with it (I will take a picture tomorrow). It's totally smooth and flush with the block, and it is leaking oil badly. Maybe I can get it out with a pick and a magnet. I'm worried I might have to drill a screw into it to yank it out, which would mean possible metal shavings in the oil galley. In an act of desperation, I gooped some two-part epoxy on there to band aid it (and make it to an exhaust shop before they closed), but it lasted about 10 seconds.

Nick, did you put that plug in there? Any clues how it might come out? Again, pictures should be worth exactly 1,000 words here.

Gotta get some oil cleanup from Autozone tomorrow morning . . .
 
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about the bias plugs;
Ive ran them on my 90 with in-op ABS and It was ok to drive but the rears do lock up under heavy braking,even with my Mach 1 calipers and 13" rotors.
 

Geek SHO

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I solved the plug problem. Nothing like a little healthy paranoia. It was just a plastic plug that was clipped in. I'd think that something that small would have popped out just from the oil pressure, or when I was picking at it with picks. Once I hit it with a small drill bit, it popped right out.

Now I'm having trouble getting the cooling system to bleed. Seemingly before the thermostat heats up, boiling water starts puking out the radiator stem. I'm 99% sure that I put the jiggle valve thermostat in with the valve up, but maybe I'll check on it. There must still be a lot of air stuck in the motor.
 

Geek SHO

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1995mtxsho

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I haven't run a search yet for this, but I just realized I need a shorter alternator belt now that I plan on gutting my A/C compressor (and removing the pulley). Anyone have a part number for this?

EDIT: I found it easily: "The a/c delete belt you need is a Gates K060405 (sames a Dayco 5060405, Goodyear 4060405)."

89-93 MTX ... 4060405 = 6-Rib 40.5" Belt
94-95 MTX ... 4060420 = 6-Rib 42.0" Belt

42" is the shortest I could fit on my 95's AC Delete.
I believe the differences in length are from the use of two different in alternator over the years.
 
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RonPorter

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This was a comment from a BADASS SHO owner. So it was like a rocket launcher equipped T-Rex calling a kettle black.

\Hmmm.....

For less $$$. a 3.8 with a super/turbo charger can be dropped into a Fiero. Try to catch me on a dragstrip or a track.

If I had room in the garage, an '88 Fiero GT would be there before any SHO I would consider modifying. My current SHOs will remain stock. IMNSHO, modifying SHOs is a waste of time and $$$. Much more to gain on lots of other cool vehicles.
 

Geek SHO

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But don't Fieros spontaneously combust, Captain 225 width tires on slicers? :p

Don't need this to turn into a flame war. Bring a Fiero out here to Texas and we'll see if you can keep up. ;-)

James, I think you might have meant the alternator, not the starter. Good info nonetheless.
 

RonPorter

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But don't Fieros spontaneously combust, Captain 225 width tires on slicers? :p

Don't need this to turn into a flame war. Bring a Fiero out here to Texas and we'll see if you can keep up. ;-)

James, I think you might have meant the alternator, not the starter. Good info nonetheless.

Nioce try....back in '84-'85 on the Iron Duke.

But then, they don't have crank sensors that leave you Found On Road Dead.....

All I'm sayning is that SHO owners have no business knocking ANY other car. Fieros get a lot more respect than 4-door taxicab retiree-mobiles.

And I don't wanna hear about turbo/super/juice cars. None still have run as quick as that old Chrysler minivan on juice from 10-15 years ago.
 

jonheese

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Funny, weren't you looking at a turbo Caravan on craigslist earlier this year, Sean? Have we come full circle now?
 

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