Return of the Geek SHO

[llamaking122]

sticky worthy

 

[Geek SHO]

The trunk is almost done. Today's objective was just the strut tower brace, but I was looking at the holes in the floor where the nitrous bottle was mounted, and had to put it back on:

To finish the trunk, just need to run the battery cables. And one of the strap bolts up and VANISHED while I was handling the bottle mounts. Hopefully it will turn up.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Reminds me of my Trunk.

-Sam

 

[TRicker]

I called an engine shop today, and by my description, they said that I shouldn't have a problem with the mild angled cross hatching hone, assuming that I'm not using "moly" rings, as opposed to steel. Granted, this shop may not know what a SHO engine is, and I don't really know what the rings are made of, except that they are Hastings 3.2 rings. They said something about steel rings seating really quickly to the walls, and it shouldn't be a problem. Are the Hastings rings "moly"?

Also, when I was installing the rings on the pistons, there was no gap above or below the rings, but the install instructions say that there should be 0.004" gap for each inch of cylinder diameter, so I figured 0.014" because it's a 3.5" bore. I could barely get the 0.0015" feeler gauge in there. Are these just "gapless" rings then?

This is turning into a bit of a "How-to-build-an-engine", but that's not a bad thing to have floating on the forum.

you probably have to file your rings to get your gap. you do that with the rings off of the piston. you compress the ring with your hand (or preferrably the ring compressor) and use a piston to carefully slide it into the cylinder wall. go down a little ways (i usually go 1/2" from the top of the cylinder wall) and put your feeler guage in the gap with the ring just sitting in the cylinder. that's how you do ring end gap. you can't measure it properly with the ring on the piston.

now.

moly coated rings are just that. moly coated. most any car nowdays will have "chrome" steel rings. they are not actually chrome, dont' be mistaken. they are just run through a different process. these rings, are less prone to chipping on the ends and on the bottom surface.

it is improtant that you have your honing angle correct with "chrome style" rings, because they are so hard that it takes a lot of time to break them in, especially with an improper hone. it won't come apart on you, it'll just take way longer than it should to seat the rings and make its max compression (and not burn oil, but of course oil control rings do this anyways)

 

[Sho Amo]

sam did you put that box in or was it bob? Im in the market for one.

 

[SHOspazz92]

sam did you put that box in or was it bob? Im in the market for one.

Bob did. It's just a plastic Box. Not NHRA Legal.

-Sam

 

[Sho Amo]

and they let you go through inspection for a test and tune? Im kinda worried about it.

 

[SHOspazz92]

and they let you go through inspection for a test and tune? Im kinda worried about it.

I run at a non NHRA Sanctioned Track. I could race a 900 Horsepower shopping cart for all they care.

IIRC, NHRA Guidlines call for a Metal Box that vents out of the car, With a Battery **** switch.

-Sam

 

[Sho Amo]

gayness

lol im not trying to do all that.

 

[Geek SHO]

Update

Please, keep the bigotry to yourself.

I got the rear control arms out, but I think I need to drop the fuel tank in order to drill out the front mounting holes. The Zach Leahy bars use 1/2 bolts which are a hair larger than the metric bolts on the factory arms. Am I not thinking of an easy method to hog out the holes without needing to fit a drill in where the H-Brace will go? Maybe something to fit my air ratchet?

I bought some 1.5" heat shrink tubing to seal some grease into the ball joints. I'm going to get a heat gun to shrink them. I did one with a lighter, but it took 10 minutes, and probably used half the lighter.

I bent one of the compression rings for my #1 piston, but fortunately I have a spare. Hopefully I didn't bend any others, but now I've got a ring expander tool, as well as a good ring compressor. I showed a piston to a local engine shop, and they gave me some good pointers on assembling the short block. Why did I think that assembling it would be easy?

I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can get this done in two weeks before the FordBastards track day at TWS. Fortunately the spring semester ends next week, and I'll have a week and a half off of work (I'm a teacher).

 

[Geek SHO]

Update pictures

Here's more pictures of the control arms coming together. I've got neighbors living directly above my garage, and I doubt they'd appreciate my air ratchet blasting at 1am, so work continues tomorrow morning.

It was recommended that I grease and seal the ball joints of the Zach Leahy aluminum control arms. First a liberal coating of grease:


I found some 1.5" heat shrink for $50 for 4 feet. Over a dollar an inch! But less maintenance is worth it in my book. I shrank a small piece on the end of each, and drilled a hole back through the tubing and ball joint for the bolt to pass through:


Before and after greasing and sealing:


New control arm versus old control arm:


Found a short drill bit while browsing Harbor Freight Tools. Yay! Don't have to drop the fuel tank!


Can't wait to see this all assembled on the car. Hopefully I can finish it tomorrow morning. I need to finish the battery, and get back to the engine.

 

[firebat45]

Probably a bit late for you, but you can buy heim seals for even less than what you paid for the heatshrink, and they'd do a better job of it.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Seals-It-Heim-Seals,1528.html

Posted in case anyone else wants to do something similar.

 

[Geek SHO]

I just learned that I cannot use the bias plugs. I didn't fully read the listing that they require ABS to operate properly. I think my factory brake proportioning valve is stuck, but I'm not sure I can attach it to these (which I just finished):



These ended up being a TON of work to install. They look easy, but I had to do a lot of drilling, greasing, heat-gunning, tightening, retightening, and torquing.

With the heat shrink holding grease in the ball joints, they became too thick for the spacers included, so I replaced one on each arm with several custom high tensile omni-shims (washers). I ended up cramming one more omni-shim in there after taking this photo to make it as tight as possible:


Maybe I can use something like this to manually adjust brake proportions:

Anyone have something like this on their SHO? I'd rather not trust a zip-tie to operate the OEM bias valve arm.

Stay tuned. More to come tonight!

 

[RonPorter]

I just learned that I cannot use the bias plugs. I didn't fully read the listing that they require ABS to operate properly. I think my factory brake proportioning valve is stuck, but I'm not sure I can attach it to these (which I just finished):

Huh? Although folks warn of gloom & doom using the plugs on a non-ABS car, they will work. Especially if you put bigger brakes on the front with the stock rears. There becomes a natural bias effect.

FWIW, I had plugs in my '95 years ago, and the ABS was dead. Even drove it in the winter this way. In fact, I found out the ABS was dead on a snowy road. Based on my experience with that car with the dead ABS, I personally wouldn't hesitate to put plugs in a non-ABS car.

 

[Geek SHO]

Huh? Although folks warn of gloom & doom using the plugs on a non-ABS car, they will work. Especially if you put bigger brakes on the front with the stock rears. There becomes a natural bias effect.

FWIW, I had plugs in my '95 years ago, and the ABS was dead. Even drove it in the winter this way. In fact, I found out the ABS was dead on a snowy road. Based on my experience with that car with the dead ABS, I personally wouldn't hesitate to put plugs in a non-ABS car.

Kurt from SHOSource called me up and specifically told me not to use them for fear that my rear brakes would lock up instantly. The plugs are already in the mail back to them. Besides, I couldn't see how to get the stock plugs out without completely destroying them (and leaving pieces down in the valve).

 

[Geek SHO]

Rear suspension is done, trunk mounted battery just needs to be attached to the starter solenoid. The short block is almost done, but I bent one of the compression rings (the first one I tried installing). I've got a line on a replacement that's about a 4 hour drive away. I'm hoping I can pick it up tonight.

I've got a million things racing through my mind, but I'm excited that progress is continuing.

I haven't run a search yet for this, but I just realized I need a shorter alternator belt now that I plan on gutting my A/C compressor (and removing the pulley). Anyone have a part number for this?

EDIT: I found it easily: "The a/c delete belt you need is a Gates K060405 (sames a Dayco 5060405, Goodyear 4060405)."

 

[Geek SHO]

5/12 Update

I spent all day yesterday driving out to Mike D's place to pick up a piston ring to replace one I bent. However I also picked up a trick pulley-bracket replacement for my AC compressor, and I should be able to use the OEM sized belt.

Today I spent all day getting the motor together. After three trips to Home Depot to solve my Dremel bit clogging problems, during my head porting:

And two trips to Autozone for laquer-thinner, brake fluid, and a puller, I just kept working my ass off all day. I worked to the point of nausea about an hour ago, and decided to call it a day.

Because I haven't rented an engine hoist yet (planning on that tomorrow), I had to get creative to install that pain in the ass rear main seal carrier deal. I had to loosen the engine stand bolts to widen the gap and slip the carrier in. I had to omit four of the bolts to get it to clear, but I can put those on after the engine is free-swinging. Pictures:

"I think this might work . . ."


"Kick-ass! It fit!"


Next step is to finish cleaning the oil pan and installing it. Then I'll install my port matched (to my new Extrude Honed intake) cylinder heads and finish the remaining 600 steps left.

 

[Geek SHO]

Defeat!

I've run out of time, and won't be able to take the car to the track this weekend. I've been busting my ass all week, but there's still too much to do in one day. Due to my haste, I broke part of the thermostat housing and epoxied it back together, but a replacement from the Pick N Pull would be better. Also, I got the timing pulleys installed and lined up, but I have no belts! G'ah, what an oversight!

So, I spend the rest of today prepping my daily driver ZX2 for the track, and I will hopefully finish this car next week when I have some more time.

Off the top of my head what's left:
-wire remote battery cable and HID headlights in engine bay
-reinstall X2J computer
-finish front of motor including accessories
-rent engine hoist and lift off of engine stand
-install flywheel, clutch, MTX, and mounts
-install engine/trans
-install intake, air box, nitrous line
-saw 1/2" off tips of axles (for clearance with 18" wheel center caps) and install
-install radiator
-fill coolant, oil, P/S fluid
-bleed brakes
-prime oil system, then fire it up!

THEN, take it to Bob Haynes Custom Coach works for:
-install subframe connectors
-roll rear fenders
-install straight-through mufflers
-install Camaro style exhaust tips (I've got a neat idea for these)

Stay tuned.

 

[Wakeboy1337]

I'm looking forward to your next post

 

[Geek SHO]

Long post, but please bear with me. I've got some questions:

I've been working ******* the car this week, pushing my body (and sanity!) to the ragged edge. I'm so anxious to finish this car, but also finish it right. I have some new pictures, but I'm too lazy to post them right now. I got a ton of stuff done (including installing the motor/MTX) but I've come up with another thing to add, and I could use a pointer on how to do it quicker:

Is there an easy way to hot-wire the fuel pump to run continuously with the motor off?

I have 4 year old fuel that I want to purge out before I add some new fuel. I got about a quarter tank out by just turning the key from ACC to RUN over and over and over, but there's still about a half tank. The battery was dead, so this operation is mostly being powered by a battery charger. I need to get a container (or multiple) and find a place to dispose of this old gas tomorrow. Any suggestions where to do this?

I bought some B&M high performance ATF supposedly designed for track use. Is somethine like this a no-no in our cars? I can always go back and get some Mercon V.

Updated checklist:
-empty and refill fuel tank
-wire starter
-install axles (and trim 1/2" from tips)
-attach shift linkage
-install Y-Pipe
-fill oil
-fill tranny
-fill PS fluid
-bleed brakes
-fill and burp cooling system

And finally going to Bob Haynes Custom Coach Works for SFC's, fender rolling, and muffler-back exhaust. Whew!