When replacing the CV shafts, is it typical to have to disconnect the knuckles? I can't really see a way to shoe-horn them on without taking them off.
Replacing CV shafts
- Thread starter Devin
- Start date
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Shoaz
Studly dood
You don't need to take the knuckles off the struts, but you do need to separate the knuckle from the LCA.
92ShoOff
SHO Member
Yeah you'll definitely disconnect the lower control arm from the frame to get the strut and knuckle to pull out and off the existing cv axle. And just to give you a warning... it CAN be a pain getting that arm back in the subframe and lined up to put the bolt back through it. I have gone through this many times and it requires a lot of patience and prying/leverage. Good luck!
Shoaz
Studly dood
It's a lot easier to just pop the lower control arm ball joint out of the knuckle than to disconnect it at the subframe (IMHO).
Loosen the pinch bolt that retains the ball joint in the knuckle, then use a pry bar (the longer the better) against the subframe to pop the LCA/balljoint out of the knuckle. The hub nut should already be removed before that so the knuckle can move laterally if it needs to without stressing the CV.
To replace, just use the prybar again to lower the LCA and pop the ball joint back into the knuckle. Sometimes it takes using all of the travel capability of the LCA to do that, but I've always done it this way successfully.
YMMV, of course...
Loosen the pinch bolt that retains the ball joint in the knuckle, then use a pry bar (the longer the better) against the subframe to pop the LCA/balljoint out of the knuckle. The hub nut should already be removed before that so the knuckle can move laterally if it needs to without stressing the CV.
To replace, just use the prybar again to lower the LCA and pop the ball joint back into the knuckle. Sometimes it takes using all of the travel capability of the LCA to do that, but I've always done it this way successfully.
YMMV, of course...
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
I agree that it is much simpler to disconnect the ball joint than the lower control arm's pivot bolt at the subframe for a CV shaft replacement. Do make sure that you fully torque that hub nut. If you don't hae a service manual, visit the AutoZone.com repair guides section for the SHO. Some torque values reprinted from a topic where I repalced both CV halfshafts are shown below.
Oo, good stuff, thanks.
I ended up removing the knuckle from the ball joints (outer tie rod and LCA) and it went on fine. My brother rightly said during the midst of the repair that I should have placed the shaft in the knuckle since the threaded end is that much further out but at that point the shaft was already "circlipped in" and gentle prying wouldn't dislodge it.
Speaking of torque... the bolts that hold on the half shaft are a mystery. The only thing I could find in my Chiltons was reference to a "halfshaft link bearing" and it's torque was about 40 ft lbs. They are only 10mm but I do want to get them correct so my halfshaft doesn't come loose and destroy itself.
I ended up removing the knuckle from the ball joints (outer tie rod and LCA) and it went on fine. My brother rightly said during the midst of the repair that I should have placed the shaft in the knuckle since the threaded end is that much further out but at that point the shaft was already "circlipped in" and gentle prying wouldn't dislodge it.
Speaking of torque... the bolts that hold on the half shaft are a mystery. The only thing I could find in my Chiltons was reference to a "halfshaft link bearing" and it's torque was about 40 ft lbs. They are only 10mm but I do want to get them correct so my halfshaft doesn't come loose and destroy itself.
Shoaz
Studly dood
Devin said:
I just snug those by hand. I don't think I've been able to find a torque spec on them, either.
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