Replaced Radiator, but still running hot.

[ChrisR]

I finally replaced my radiator, and started it up for the test-run. The car is still overheating pretty bad. In about 2 miles of "spirited" driving it got almost to the "H". I don't think it would be possible, but can a rad hose get plugged? It just seems as though the fluid isn't quite making it to the engin, because the overflow tank is always spuing liquid when cap is removed.
Also, not sure if it has anything to do with it, but at first, it hesitats a little bit. I press the gas, and it waits maybe 1/2 second to start responding.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[revhardSHO]

Im not sure but you should problably get a new thermostat in there. I know that will cause overheating issues. As for the hesitation: will it hesitate when cold? Is the heat or AC on when it hestitates?

silas

<small>[ November 26, 2002, 03:07 PM: Message edited by: smithsil89SHO ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Do you mean that the expansion bottle is overflowing when the expansion bottle's cap is removed or the radiator cap? This is a very inmportant point.

 

[shojuan]

You'll need to wait until all the air is purged out of there until you can make a final judgement. Also, there was a recent discussion on the techsho list about thermostats. It seems the factory ford thermostat will do a proper job of blocking off the bypass tube to the water pump when it is opened up. Aftermarket thermostats don't necessarily completely block off the bypass passage when they're open meaning you're not getting full flow to the radiator.

Rick

 

[ChrisR]

smithsil89SHO: yes, mainly when it is cold, and A/C is Off.

sdpatt: It is actually the cap on the left (pass) side of the radiator, not the plastic bottle next to it.

Thanks for the help so far...

 

[steevil]

1, Thermostat? Replaced it yet?

2, too much water in water/anti-freeze mix. Go for a 60% anti-freeze and %40 water mix

3, COuld be plugged cats.

4, Try some Redline water wetter.

5, Have you replaced your rad cap yet?

6, Could be a bad water pump or blown head gasket.

 

[shojuan]

steevil:

2, too much water in water/anti-freeze mix. Go for a 60% anti-freeze and %40 water mix

You got this backwards. Water has twice the heat capacity of ethylene glycol. More water and less antifreeze will improve the cooling system capacity. Just need to make sure you have enough corrosion inhibitors (about 35% coolant should be safe. Water wetter will give you extra corrosion protection for insurance and will improve the heat transfer between the metal to coolant interface) and also enough coolant for freeze protection in your climate (get out your high school chemistry book and figure out what percent your mix will freeze at. I guess maybe I should be nice and make a table for people.)

6, Could be a bad water pump

As long as the pump's turning water will flow. Even bad leaky water pumps on SHOs should pump as much water as a brand new pump. Let he who has the vanes of their old pump corroded off post pics. I doubt there is such a beast.

Rick

<small>[ November 27, 2002, 03:34 AM: Message edited by: shojuan ]</small>

 

[SHOZ123]

Water has twice the heat capacity of ethylene glycol. More water and less antifreeze will improve the cooling system capacity..... Water wetter will give you extra corrosion protection for insurance and will improve the heat transfer between the metal to coolant interface)

Something is wrong if you need to resort to this level of cooling system tweaking on a N/A engine. Not saying it won't work but it shouldn't need to be done.

A higher glycol mix on the antifreeze will also raise the boiling point. By reducing the glycol content you are increasing the chance of boiling the coolant in the hot pocket areas of the motor. Once the coolant boils it will not absorb any more heat.

Make sure your pressure cap is good for 15 lbs or so too.

<small>[ November 27, 2002, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[ChrisR]

I bought a new thermostat, I didn't know they were that cheap! Only 5 bucks! Anyway, I have no Idea where it is located (on the engine). I have a chiltons, and the factory repair manual, but they both only show close up pictures. Can someone give me a basic description where in the heck it is located?

Thanks

 

[705sho-off]

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3thermostatreplacement.html

Print out this bad boy and u will have a new thermostat installed in ten minutes.

And I am a horrible mechanic...!

 

[RI-SHO]

Anyone have a p/n for the Ford/Motorcraft t-stat?

 

[ChrisR]

705sho-off: That looks like a perfect description. Let's hope it works out, and was just the thermostat.

 

[ChrisR]

No wonder the thermostat was only 5 bucks. I got the wrong one. Back to Shucks...

 

[ChrisR]

Do I need a jiggle valve? I went to 3 differnt places, and they all only produced a thermostat withOUT a jiggle valve. Will I have to go with ford?

 

[projectSHO89]

The AutoZone RobertShaw unit works fine. Don't have the part number handy. You will have to reuse your old o-ring or buy one of the FelPro ones.

The MotorCraft part number is RT-1112, IIRC.

Steve

 

[shojuan]

Just about your 1000th post Steve! thumbs_u

Rick

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Chris, the reason the system is spewing out coolant when it's hot is because it is pressurized. It's a no no to take the radiator cap off on a hot vehicle.

Second, make sure you are bleeding the air out of the system. If you aren't doing this bad things will happen. To do this, let the car cool down, pop off the radiator cap, turn the heat on full blast out of vent, and turn the car on. Keep topping off the radiator. It will keep burping up air and taking in more fluid and when the T stat opens it will take more fluid. When the car is warm and it's not burping air anymore, pop the cap back on and take it for some more spirited driving. Good luck.

 

[Guy Newton]

You can also use the NAPA t-stat:

part #219 mfd by Standard Thomson, $4.99
seal for thermostat 1086, .89 cents

might as well change the temp sender for the gage too:

temp sender TS6628 mfd by Echlin, $8.07

 

[ChrisR]

Thanks Mikey & Guy!

 

[ChrisR]

Got around to it, and replaced the t-stat, and temp sender. I let it idle for about 15-20 minutes, and the temp got up to about the "O" on the guage, also the engine was smoking a bit (not sure if it was just spilled coolant or not). But I think I am about ready to give up on this car, and roll it off the nearest cliff. I don't know what else to check .

shrug

Any advice you can give, anyone?