Replace stock speakers

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SilverSH0

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LMAO There is the Audio Engineer I always enjoy reading your post even if most of the time I have no idea what you are talking about, LOL You just sound cool.
- OK Do you have any idea what the Best Buy tech is talking about, (No one as mentioned this before, An I mean NO one, The shops I priced with charge you to open the car door) Do I need these resistors for the speakers to work, or is there specs I can check an use speakers that will work, Lastly will the resistors make the new speakers sound like crap.
- So far it seems like the crowd consensus is as long as the speakers are close its not really needed, Thanks in advance SilverSH0
C/
I would have to defer on this because this appears to me to be specific to the amps and system installed from the factory. If you had an aftermarket amp and headunit, I would say it's not required at all. However, the factory amps could be looking for a specific impedance in order to operate and the resistors could help achieve that impedance.

I would honestly call Crutchfield and talk to them about what Best Buy is saying. They are generally very knowledgeable on vehicle specific installs and have good advice. Unfortunately, I haven't looked into the systems on these cars so I don't know how they are wired or run. I don't even know how many amps are in the vehicle because I haven't started to look at digging into the system. Sorry I cannot help more.
 

SHOinVa

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First, if you are buying electronic gear and are looking at Crutchfield call Buzz, LOL Yes I said Buzz, every time I talk to him it seems like the best day of his life, He seems to know what he is talking about, will give you good advice, an keep you on track. I tried to do a few things he didn't agree with an he pointed me back in the right direction, I really can not say enough nice things about his service. So get Buzz if you need stereo gear.


However, the factory amps could be looking for a specific impedance in order to operate and the resistors could help achieve that impedance.
- When I picked out my speakers I was pretty careful to make sure the specs were close if not the same as factory, I spoke with Crutchfield and they confirmed everything, the only difference is the rear deck speakers are 2.3 impedance and the replacement speakers are 3, so real close.

I would honestly call Crutchfield and talk to them about what Best Buy is saying.
I spoke to Buzz at Crutchfield an he has no idea what this guy is talking about, we had already discussed this in great detail since with all the issues I've had I wanted a real simple plug an play install.

Unfortunately, I haven't looked into the systems on these cars so I don't know how they are wired or run.
That maybe be true but we have chatted enough so I trust your opinion way more then most, LOL I don't know what you are talking about most of the time so I assume you KNOW what you are talking about.
 

Lostneye

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Some factory amps will shut down if the impedance is not in range of what it is expecting. Again I do not believe the factory Sony amp in these cars will. I was running high level from the Sony nto my DSP with no resistors prior to installing the DSR1 without issue.

How was that 2.3 ohms measured? Is that simply a resistance measurement across the terminals of the speaker?
I believe the impedance is stamped on the back of each speaker. I will probably be in my attic in the next few days anyway and if I remember I will look at my stock speakers.

At this point I would not recommend the DSR1 as I am having too many issues with it. Hopefully there is firmware updates that will fix it but it was delayed for months and now out for a few months and it's still not fixed. If you search the web there are issues with multiple Ford models not just the Taurus. I will be switching to the PAC which is the same price but does not have DSP functionality but much better reviews. I don't think until sometime after the new years as a new amp I am looking at is not shipping yet but I will post up how it goes after that.
 

SHOinVa

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Greetings All, I finally got my speakers done and here are some lessons learned, First an fore most
*Thank You To Everyone out here who helped me.* I am not sure this project would have got done without SHO Forum people.
Somewhere on this forum someone said, "Buy whats on sale from Crutchfields, and have them installed" and in the end that is exactly what I did.
Equipment
Front doors and A-Peller
Focal Integration ISS 570---------------$179.99
Rear Doors
Focal Integration ISC 570---------------$129.99
Rear Deck
Infinity Reference REF-9620cx --------$124.99 *Did not use the tweeters, Just used 6x9's on sale an fit*
Instillation
Best Buy ----------------------------------$236.28
-------------------------------------------------------
Total------------------------------------- $ 671.25

- So I've had about two day's to live with my new speakers and so far I'm pretty impressed, they made a big difference in the quality of the sound system. Generally speaking the sound is much more vivid, robust, and has more overall bass. Reason I wanted to improve the system was, when I turned the volume up at a certain point the sound would get real harsh an generally unpleasant to listen too. The new speakers did not completely get rid of the problem BUT it did move it a lot further up on the volume dial. You never get everything you want out of something but I feel like I got 85% which for now I can live with. I really wish people where having better luck with the DSR1 because I think that would bring things together nicely. To be honest I am pretty sure I am at the point of diminishing return, in other words to make anymore real improvements its going to cost a whole lot more money. Considering the "Sound Shops" all wanted around $1000 to replace the four doors an tweeters, I think I did pretty good price wise.
- In hind sight I think the only change I would make would be adding a some sound deadening to the doors, (the stock speakers seemed to have a little bit more padding) every now an then I hear something just a little hollow or maybe even the slightest hint of rattle BUT nothing I feel the need to tear the doors apart to fix, at least not for now.
-Once again Thank You to everyone, If I have any other feedback I will post it as it comes up, I hope this is helpful to anyone upgrading there system, For now I am moving on to other projects.
C/
One more thing for those following along, The resistors where not needed, I assume what ever speakers they installed before where way off spec, Just a Guess.
 
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Lostneye

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You are definitely to the point where there will be a decent investment to improve more. My car is currently at the installer again removing the DSR1 for the PAC along with some other changes. Sound quality can be like going faster, a rabbit hole you and your wallet can get lost in.
 

SHOinVa

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You are definitely to the point where there will be a decent investment to improve more. My car is currently at the installer again removing the DSR1 for the PAC along with some other changes. Sound quality can be like going faster, a rabbit hole you and your wallet can get lost in.
I was really sad to hear about your issues and I believe you enough not to bother an try, from my reading it seems like it could be a software issue and I am hoping that one day they may get it right. I am good for now, I really hope I stay good this is a pain in the butt.
C/
 

Lostneye

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From what I have read online if you are using the DSR1 standalone, meaning no integration from say an aftermarket head unit it works well enough(mine will probably end up in my gf car which has a Pioneer deck in it). It has two sets of firmware RF and idatalink. Idatalink does the integration and seems a bunch of Fords are having similar issues. The PAC doesn’t have a DSP but there is not the widespread reports of issues so I’m hoping this will do it.
 

St.Louis

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Greetings All, I finally got my speakers done and here are some lessons learned, First an fore most
*Thank You To Everyone out here who helped me.* I am not sure this project would have got done without SHO Forum people.
Somewhere on this forum someone said, "Buy whats on sale from Crutchfields, and have them installed" and in the end that is exactly what I did.
Equipment
Front doors and A-Peller
Focal Integration ISS 570---------------$179.99
Rear Doors
Focal Integration ISC 570---------------$129.99
Rear Deck
Infinity Reference REF-9620cx --------$124.99 *Did not use the tweeters, Just used 6x9's on sale an fit*
Instillation
Best Buy ----------------------------------$236.28
-------------------------------------------------------
Total------------------------------------- $ 671.25

- So I've had about two day's to live with my new speakers and so far I'm pretty impressed, they made a big difference in the quality of the sound system. Generally speaking the sound is much more vivid, robust, and has more overall bass. Reason I wanted to improve the system was, when I turned the volume up at a certain point the sound would get real harsh an generally unpleasant to listen too. The new speakers did not completely get rid of the problem BUT it did move it a lot further up on the volume dial. You never get everything you want out of something but I feel like I got 85% which for now I can live with. I really wish people where having better luck with the DSR1 because I think that would bring things together nicely. To be honest I am pretty sure I am at the point of diminishing return, in other words to make anymore real improvements its going to cost a whole lot more money. Considering the "Sound Shops" all wanted around $1000 to replace the four doors an tweeters, I think I did pretty good price wise.
- In hind sight I think the only change I would make would be adding a some sound deadening to the doors, (the stock speakers seemed to have a little bit more padding) every now an then I hear something just a little hollow or maybe even the slightest hint of rattle BUT nothing I feel the need to tear the doors apart to fix, at least not for now.
-Once again Thank You to everyone, If I have any other feedback I will post it as it comes up, I hope this is helpful to anyone upgrading there system, For now I am moving on to other projects.
C/
One more thing for those following along, The resistors where not needed, I assume what ever speakers they installed before where way off spec, Just a Guess.

So I am looking at putting in new speakers for the 6x9 rear deck speakers are shot in the 14 sho I bought. Are the infinity speakers doing a good job with delivering quality bass?
 

Sho_Ride

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As someone who was a design engineer for Harman I can tell you that all the JBL and Infinity speakers go through extensive environmental testing (to include having to play with 1/2 the speaker submerged in water). I would have zero concerns with the water getting in through the door and onto the speakers as they're designed for that environment. I wouldn't take home audio speakers in that environment, but the car audio speakers are designed for that.

I realize this is an old thread but since I consider myself a better "amateur" audiophile than a certified gear head I may have something useful to add. I bought my wife a 2016 Fusion with the luxury package but it had the standard audio set up. I replaced all the door speakers and the rear deck "so called subs" with Infinty Kappa series and a Rockford Fosgate T-1000 amp replaced the crappy Sony stock one. What an amazing sound difference just with the speakers alone but the amp is to the speakers as a tune is to your motor, it just brings it to life. I highly recommend Infinity Kappa speakers, you will not find a better engineered or sounding speaker in that price range.
As soon as I am done with the performance upgrades on my SHO I plan on upgrading the speakers and possibly amp.
 

Sgtmeatsauce1

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FYI....On your new speakers rattling on louder volume...look in door shelve for junk that may be jarring around, I use napkins for spare clean ups and as stuffing to stop stuff from rattling. Only seems to do it when loud enough....
 

SHOinVa

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So I am looking at putting in new speakers for the 6x9 rear deck speakers are shot in the 14 sho I bought. Are the infinity speakers doing a good job with delivering quality bass?
I have not spent a great deal of time with her in the last few months, she is mainly a summer road trip car and the rear speakers are not as important as the front, BUT Yes the bass seems to be noticeably better, You are not going to be thumping but there is a difference. Keep in mind the most important thing is all the specification align, where some people make a mistake is the resistance in the new speakers is off an does not align with the volume. I bought these because they where good speakers an they where on sale. Best advice I got was to "Look on Cruchfields for a sale". An I would add think outside of the box, I did not want two ways in the rear deck because it's only wired for bass so I bought a component an did not use the tweeters. My advice once you have done your homework call them ask for Buzz an go over your choices with him.
As soon as I am done with the performance upgrades on my SHO I plan on upgrading the speakers and possibly amp.
Start looking now, do your homework an buy speakers on sale, new speakers are well worth the money. The amp is going to complicate things, there are many who know a whole lot more then me but in general you will lose a lot of your Sync controls.
look in door shelve for junk that may be jarring around,
Good point but no junk, the new speakers are much better but have a less padding. I confirmed this but trying to use the new box's with the old speakers they don't really fit. I don't think you need much but I would add some padding (sound deadening) if I did it again.
Hope every one has a great weekend. Hope this helps, An call Buzz at Cruchfields he really was very helpful.
Charlie
 
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Choppa

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Start looking now, do your homework an buy speakers on sale, new speakers are well worth the money. The amp is going to complicate things, there are many who know a whole lot more then me but in general you will lose a lot of your Sync controls.
Charlie

If you use either of these two units to replace your stock amp you will be able to add an aftermarket amp and maintain ALL sync functions.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/ or https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-fd21

I've heard there are some bugs with the Rockford unit, but hopefully firmware fixes are in the works. The benefit to the DSR1 is the included 3Sixty DSP software.
 

Choppa

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If you use either of these two units to replace your stock amp you will be able to add an aftermarket amp and maintain ALL sync functions.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/ or https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-fd21

I've heard there are some bugs with the Rockford unit, but hopefully firmware fixes are in the works. The benefit to the DSR1 is the included 3Sixty DSP software.
Turns out there is an update for the DSR1 released today

---------------------------

### Software Version ###

v1.4.2.14


--------------------------

### Date of Release ###

03/02/2018

---------------------------

### Updates to Firmware ###

=== IMPORTANT: Re-Flash DSR1 using Weblink Plugin above when using T-Harness on DSRA firmware v1.3.x.x or newer ===
- Improved vehicle communication in Maestro mode
- Improved app communication
- Fixed issue of loss of audio on ignition due to low battery
- Fixed issue of turn-on / turn-off pop in some installations
- Fixed issue of Maestro chime volume too loud
- Fixed issue of Maestro slow chime latency
 

Sho_Ride

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My installer hooked up a rockford fosgate t-1000 (birth sheet documented @ 1284 watts) without any issues from my sync and out to all 6 speakers plus 2 tweeters. One of the channels gave out in the amp so I returned it and temporarily replaced with a p-400 and still no issues with the sync. Im probably going to get a jl audio 6 channel when i get around to it.
 

Lostneye

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Turns out there is an update for the DSR1 released today

---------------------------

### Software Version ###

v1.4.2.14


--------------------------

### Date of Release ###

03/02/2018

---------------------------

### Updates to Firmware ###

=== IMPORTANT: Re-Flash DSR1 using Weblink Plugin above when using T-Harness on DSRA firmware v1.3.x.x or newer ===
- Improved vehicle communication in Maestro mode
- Improved app communication
- Fixed issue of loss of audio on ignition due to low battery
- Fixed issue of turn-on / turn-off pop in some installations
- Fixed issue of Maestro chime volume too loud
- Fixed issue of Maestro slow chime latency
Hopefully they finally have it fixed. But I was one of the first to buy the DSR1 and even if it was fixed would not use it after all the wasted time and money I spent trying to get it to work. I pulled it and am using the PAC ampro which works great out of the box.
 

Juicybaka

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As someone who was a design engineer for Harman I can tell you that all the JBL and Infinity speakers go through extensive environmental testing (to include having to play with 1/2 the speaker submerged in water). I would have zero concerns with the water getting in through the door and onto the speakers as they're designed for that environment. I wouldn't take home audio speakers in that environment, but the car audio speakers are designed for that.
I installed JBL Club component speakers in suburban, and for the money they sound awesome!
 

Carl's SHO

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Has anyone looked into this amp with built in DSP or used it yet? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR6006D/Kenwood-Excelon-XR600-6DSP.html
It supposedly works with my '15 with Sony and Nav and it looks like it should be almost completely plug and play with the extra components that are required with it. Will the factory speaker wire be good enough for the 75 watts RMS power that it pushes?
 

Lostneye

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Has anyone looked into this amp with built in DSP or used it yet? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR6006D/Kenwood-Excelon-XR600-6DSP.html
It supposedly works with my '15 with Sony and Nav and it looks like it should be almost completely plug and play with the extra components that are required with it. Will the factory speaker wire be good enough for the 75 watts RMS power that it pushes?
Haven't heard much but what I have was positive. It's not a full on DSP but should do enough for most people including time alignment. I wouldn't run a sub off of it but it has line outs and Kenwood makes matching mono amps so for tweets, mids, and rears it should work fine. I believe idatalink lets you remove the factory amp so should be plenty of room to mount amps in the drivers rear quarter. Factory speaker wires will be fine.
 

TKSJOHN

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Has anyone just done the upgrade of adding an aftermarket amplifier with a subwoofer and running it with all of the stock door speakers? I really don't want to invest as much into audio on my SHO as I did putting $2500 into my ST. I have a quality subwoofer and amplifier from my ST, I really just want to buy the $250 piece to use SYNC and use an aftermarket amplifier. I know I'm only going to do this once, so if I'm paying to have it installed, I'd get the speakers done as well. I'm hoping someone on here has tried this from experience!
 

SHOinVa

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running it with all of the stock door speakers
I really can't answer your whole question, but I will say it is my firm belief the speakers are one of the weakest links in the system. Doing upgrades without doing the speakers IMHO would be kind of pointless.
C/
 
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