Reinforced front motor mount project w/ pics

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rubydist

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I'm thinking that the rubber washers will do okay at reducing nvh, but if the bolt holes are tight enough that the bolts hit the plates, then you will get all manner of annoying noises - so I would make sure there is lots of clearance on those holes.
 

speedysprocket

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Depends on where you drill because the upper mount has ribs. I chose to center the bolts on the ribs - so that should be 2 1/2"-3".

Had a chance to install the new motor mount and plus swapped over the like new radiator from a parts SHO earlier today. After a test drive the mount seems perform (good driveability) and has just enough movement to reduce NVH. We'll see how long the rubber isolators last. You can see the old mount was completely shot. The rear mount at this point seems fine.

CIMG5270

CIMG5271
 

rubydist

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I suggest you stop taking your car to the salt baths, they are not good for cars.....
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Those arent that bad....

Ive seen WAY worse :eek:

But any worse than that and Id be concerned about the integrity of the base that bolts to the subframe. Real rusty ones will pull the stud right through the base. :nut:
 

speedysprocket

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Meh, I think think its about average for the mileage and year. :nut:

The mount looks rough, but it will get the same treatment as the other one except this one require epoxy since it pulled apart completely and stronger rubber isolators.
 

speedysprocket

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Actually, your both wrong. The rubber isolators worked as planned. No issues with NVH. Under high sheer/high torque stresses they may eventually need to be replaced but the theory works, so I ordered ThermoPlastic Rubber bushings (isolators) of a much more durable design. The isolators can be replaced without removing the mount - In addition, the mount can be altered to provide more rigidity, giving you total control for daily driving as well as a firm adjustment for track/drag use.
 

tompumped

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I set mine up with four on the front mount and two on the rear. I used energy susp. bushings and the nvh was very noticable. Not that I care, but you could even feel the starter. Right when I turned the key I was surprised.

I also had to weld the base of the mount because the stud would've broke. It was rusted bad in one area.
 

speedysprocket

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I set mine up with four on the front mount and two on the rear. I used energy susp. bushings and the nvh was very noticable. Not that I care, but you could even feel the starter. Right when I turned the key I was surprised.

I also had to weld the base of the mount because the stud would've broke. It was rusted bad in one area.
The TPR designed bushings have a 5/16" washer on the other side and are about twice the thickness of the original bushings I was using.

Yeah the old mount looked bad but the base was rock solid. I put it under 175 ft lb of torque and had no issues, so the mount can be re-used.
 

speedysprocket

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The old and torn up mount has been reconditioned but as you can see it was in bad shape and needed a little more attention. Ground down to good metal and cleaned it - used epoxy to fix the sections of rubber that had pulled apart so it would hold strong while I drilled out and reinforced it. Used a slightly harder rubber isolator this time. On the shelf as a spare for now.

CIMG5299

CIMG5312

CIMG5315
 

93SHO24V

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When I did my atx-mtx swap I welded my motor mounts then burned the rubber out of them, I also have ALSFB and it really doesnt vibrate. I have just over 3000 miles of spirited driving on these and no cracks or breaks. Everything stays right where it should.
 

oneqwicksho

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I did the same setup but used swaybar endlink bushings between washers nice and firm and no real big vibration or noise
 

speedysprocket

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mm update

a few thousand miles later and still holding strong. no real NVH problems and the rubber bushings seem to be holding up under 7,000rpm shifts. big brakes n struts are in so I can push it a little harder now.
 

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