802SHO
Stock Cams
Now that I’ve sealed up the transmission twice I think it would be a nice gesture to share how I went about doing it. Tools needed. Permatex automatic transmission gasket maker, shop towels/rags, 3m “moderate” stripping pad, razor blade, optional pick, Acetone, shop vac, gloves and optional but recommended digital torque wrench and pneumatic fluid extractor. 
First thing you’re going to want to do is hopefully have the trans slightly off the ground and get yourself sitting on a small creeper/roller seat instead of on the ground on your knees. A table would be even better if applicable. Start by using the razor blade and shop vac, slowly scrape away the old gasket maker residue
Until you’ve got it pretty well cleaned up. The vac to catch as many small particles as possible from landing inside the trans as you work your way around. Not a bad idea to go ahead and take out the front diff and pinion gear set and set aside on some towels.
From here cut a smaller piece off the 3m medium stripping pad and work your way around, still vacuuming as you go to keep trying to keep the inside of the trans as clean as possible. Once done it should look similar to this.
Now you’re going to clean it up with Acetone and a clean shop towel/rag. It will look nice and clean like this.
Now this is where I decided to also drain out the old fluid that also might contain anything that could have accidentally fallen in while getting to this point.
This is the same thing I did for the other half of the trans and got it looking the same way.
No need to rush through this. Take your time and be thorough. Now take the gasket maker and lay a fairly small bead all the way around, and try to also get some around the bolt holes as well. This time I chose to lay the gasket maker down on the oil pump side.
The next part is pretty critical and where you can run into alignment issues. The pinion gear and diff intertwine, you’ll need to put them in at the same time, they can only go in one place and if you try you can rock them around, however they should stay in one spot and lay pretty darn flat. Old pic for reference.
This shaft pin can be removed and may be stuck to the other side of the trans. I prefer to have it on this side, through the diff and slightly sticking out.
Next thing you may notice is this inner ring found on the reactor could be on the diff side, or it might be on the reactor side. I prefer to keep it on the reactor and if it’s not there, pick it up and put it here, and slowly lower the reactor side on the diff side and it won’t fall off, but if it does fall off it will throw off the alignment of the two halves seating properly.
There are two dowel pins as well, which should really only aid you in alignment. But there’s one more potential issue putting these two half’s together. It’s possible this gear needs to rotate slightly.
You’ll know that’s the case when it seems like it’s about 1/4” from fully seated and seems stuck. Lift it back up only to get a hand in there and rotate it one tiny turn. Lower back on and wiggle that side of the trans and it should finally fall into place.
Now you’re going to want to hand thread each bolt back in hand tight in a large cross pattern. Next you really need a digital torque wrench. I torqued the bolts down to about 16 ft/lbs in a cross pattern. Waited about 5 min to let the gasket maker setup a little more. Then I torqued all the bolts to 38 ft/lbs in whatever cross pattern I came up with, finishing up by checking them all once again. You should end up with a nice bead of gasket maker that flows just outside the seal all the way around.
At this point it should be safe to put the trans back in but you shouldn’t add any fluid for at least 24 hours. I’m going to take it a step further and let it cure for 24 hours before I even get it sitting up straight on a hoist and in the car. Just in case any residual fluid could possibly pool on the bottom and not allow the gasket maker to do its job.
Hope that helps anyone in the future possibly doing a limited slip front diff conversion modification.
First thing you’re going to want to do is hopefully have the trans slightly off the ground and get yourself sitting on a small creeper/roller seat instead of on the ground on your knees. A table would be even better if applicable. Start by using the razor blade and shop vac, slowly scrape away the old gasket maker residue
Until you’ve got it pretty well cleaned up. The vac to catch as many small particles as possible from landing inside the trans as you work your way around. Not a bad idea to go ahead and take out the front diff and pinion gear set and set aside on some towels.
From here cut a smaller piece off the 3m medium stripping pad and work your way around, still vacuuming as you go to keep trying to keep the inside of the trans as clean as possible. Once done it should look similar to this.
Now you’re going to clean it up with Acetone and a clean shop towel/rag. It will look nice and clean like this.
Now this is where I decided to also drain out the old fluid that also might contain anything that could have accidentally fallen in while getting to this point.
This is the same thing I did for the other half of the trans and got it looking the same way.
No need to rush through this. Take your time and be thorough. Now take the gasket maker and lay a fairly small bead all the way around, and try to also get some around the bolt holes as well. This time I chose to lay the gasket maker down on the oil pump side.
The next part is pretty critical and where you can run into alignment issues. The pinion gear and diff intertwine, you’ll need to put them in at the same time, they can only go in one place and if you try you can rock them around, however they should stay in one spot and lay pretty darn flat. Old pic for reference.
This shaft pin can be removed and may be stuck to the other side of the trans. I prefer to have it on this side, through the diff and slightly sticking out.
Next thing you may notice is this inner ring found on the reactor could be on the diff side, or it might be on the reactor side. I prefer to keep it on the reactor and if it’s not there, pick it up and put it here, and slowly lower the reactor side on the diff side and it won’t fall off, but if it does fall off it will throw off the alignment of the two halves seating properly.
There are two dowel pins as well, which should really only aid you in alignment. But there’s one more potential issue putting these two half’s together. It’s possible this gear needs to rotate slightly.
You’ll know that’s the case when it seems like it’s about 1/4” from fully seated and seems stuck. Lift it back up only to get a hand in there and rotate it one tiny turn. Lower back on and wiggle that side of the trans and it should finally fall into place.
Now you’re going to want to hand thread each bolt back in hand tight in a large cross pattern. Next you really need a digital torque wrench. I torqued the bolts down to about 16 ft/lbs in a cross pattern. Waited about 5 min to let the gasket maker setup a little more. Then I torqued all the bolts to 38 ft/lbs in whatever cross pattern I came up with, finishing up by checking them all once again. You should end up with a nice bead of gasket maker that flows just outside the seal all the way around.
At this point it should be safe to put the trans back in but you shouldn’t add any fluid for at least 24 hours. I’m going to take it a step further and let it cure for 24 hours before I even get it sitting up straight on a hoist and in the car. Just in case any residual fluid could possibly pool on the bottom and not allow the gasket maker to do its job.
Hope that helps anyone in the future possibly doing a limited slip front diff conversion modification.
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