Rear Power Window Issue

[eacyde]

All my windows worked flawless until today. I go to roll them all down and the drivers rear doesn't move.

I stop and try the switch on the door and it goes down, but not up.

I pulled the panel off and made sure all the connections were good. I haven't tried a different switch yet.

Is this a common thing or just some random issue I am having?

 

[tery]

Hey, I am restoring several Shos and I just had that same issue, Pass window go down not up., Evidently if the window goes down, the motor is fine, it just reverses polarity to go up. I fixed mine by totally disassembling the switch and running some 1000 emery between all the contact both over and under, it's pretty tiny work, but it fixed mine. I haven't tried the same on the rears which are also not moving, although one of the motor gets kicked by the switch, just doesn't respond.

Try cleaning those contacts and see... it worked for me...Hey...it's a poem..
Take Care,
t

 

[eacyde]

I swapped in a known good switch and still have the no up issue.
Doe anybody have the window wiring diagram?

 

[luigisho]

replace or repair the window motor. just did both rears today. Look in the how to section. The old lubricant gets hard and makes it not operate correctly. Easy to access and fix. I bought 2 on closeout 6 months ago & just put them in today. Check the mounting holes for the bolts. One was perfect & one had holes narrower than the mounting bolts. Had to take a 1/4" drill bit and enlarge the holes on that one.

 

[sperold]

You will be able to get your old units to work.
Take them out of the car (3 small bolts) and use a snap ring pliers to get the big disc with the gear out of the way. There you will see a waxy mess. Take some WD-40 and be very liberal with it in this waxy area. Get 2 push on connectors and short wires and plug them into the electrical connector for the motor. Put the cover back on, with the snap-ring or not (just hold it together) and connect the wires to a battery or a booster unit. The unit should spin at this point. If not, take it apart again and remove some of the waxy goo, put in more WD-40 and try again.

 

[shobote]

Mine did the same yesterday. drivers down but not up, removed the master switch from the door, pried apart the pins from the connectors, cleaned contacts up and voila, works again.

 

[tery]

So, that worked and then the next day it didn't go up again, So I went after the pass side cause I was getting nothing either way, After cleaning the pass side, it would go down and not up, I pulled the gray head of the switch cluster and put it back on and then it worked again from the drivers switch. She went to the shop for rear brakes, when I get it back...and rain isn't threatening, Ill fix it for good. Any suggestions from the crew about a chemical contact clean, or do you think the emery rub is better??
I expect to see a silver contact, but even after emery, I see whitish on the top of the contact, ...maybe I should get more severe and use a point file on those contacts, cause I don't think the 1000 emery is really cleaning down to the metal surface. Am I correct that the contact head itself should be a silver color when it is clean??

 

[luigisho]

I don't know. At this age there could be electrical burn in through the thin metal. I usually only had to take off surface residue but that was 10 years ago. You can always swap a switch from one of the other cars to make sure it's only a switch problem.

 

[eacyde]

I did some investigations to narrow it down
I pulled the trim piece to expose the wire harness to the pillar. when it was off, the window went up but it seemed to struggle. I helped the window up ans cycled it up and down a few times. I figured all was well and put it all back together. Tried it again and back to no go up.

For S's & G's I swapped in a known good motor and still have the issue so it is definitely the wiring. While the motor is out, I cleaned and re-greased it for good measure.

 

[tery]

I am going to try the..use a known good switch, but I am also thinking about the way the switch works...When you take off the toggle part that sits on top of the copper contacts, all the contacts are closed. Does it work that when the toggle part is put back on, both contacts are held open and pushing the toggle make one or the other contact close....Or are they both closed when it's all back together and pushing the toggle, opens one or the other contact??
Fred?? do you know the answer to that, about how the inside of the switch functions??/
T