Ready To Torch My '95 Sho

[Limitwheel]

Having had a '91 SHO for 13 years, I've come to really love this car. I've owned my present '95 SHO ATX for about 14 months. When I bought this one I changed almost everything. ( timing belt, Crank sensor, cam sensor, water pump, plugs, starter, egr sensor, TPS, IAC coolant temp sensor, accessory belt ) I never had a problem starting the car. I recently had to change the fuel pump because of a bad check valve. While I was at it, the strainer and filter were changed. Now the fuel system maintains pressure. For the past 2 months, the car has an intermittent hard start and stalling condition. Sometimes the car starts normally and a few moments later will stall and give me hard start condition. I have a spare DIS module and MAF which I installed, but the problem still exists. When the engine is on the highway, there's always plenty of power, it never stumbles. I even removed the egr valve and appplied a vacuum source to visually check for a stuck open condition. All was okay. I also plugged the egr vacuum at the manifold to now avail.
Today, I was ready to torch the car. While at the gas station, I made the mistake of shutting off the ignition. The car would not re-start for nothing. It would crank and crank but would not start. I know your going to say crank sensor but the tach was constantly moving while trying to start the car. After twenty minutes, I was able to start the car, and home I went.
I ran the codes and following showed up: KOEO: 558 EGR vacuum regulator circuit failure. KOER: 332: EGR flow insufficient.
Is it possible that the coil pack is intermittent? Can the EEC computer be bad?
Please save this SHO from a blazing death.

 

[Jaz2099]

I'd go with what it codes say EGR vacuum regulator --- test it somehow(I don't know how) or try a good one in it. Mine kinda stalled like that when I got a 327 code ---- took 10-15 minutes to start back up. Changed the dpfe sensor and it was good. Could be something else to try.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

What fuel pump did you install?

A 255lph pump with a stock regulator can make for hard starting, occasional bogging, and even stalling.

Did you try holding the accelerator to the floor while cranking? (That shuts off the injectors to help start an engine that has too much fuel in the cylinders.)

 

[pjtoledo]

What fuel pump did you install?

A 255lph pump with a stock regulator can make for hard starting, occasional bogging, and even stalling.

Did you try holding the accelerator to the floor while cranking? (That shuts off the injectors to help start an engine that has too much fuel in the cylinders.)

So if you had a wiring problem, say a little corrosion, maybe starting and stalling would be an issue? Holding the throttle open would only effect the throttle position sensor, that should narrow the search down to just a few wires between the TPS and the PCM.
I'd also consider the ICRM, its relays may not be turning the fuel pump on. Slap a timing light on it while cranking, if the coil is dead it won't trigger the light.


Perry

 

[shoebilly]

I would look at the modual mounted in the front above the radiator, with the car running do a wiggle test to all the connections at the harness that leads to the modual. If you get the engine to cutout you've found the problem.

 

[Reddy2]

Hello, Check the spade connecter on the starter, replacement starters do away with this type connecter and one of the no-start gremlins of the SHO --Reddy2