Random oil problem, or coincidence? (now an idle problem instead)

[rendyx]

Knowing I was down about 3/4 qt of oil, I decided I'd better add a bit yesterday. So after I got home, I pulled out another qt of GTX 5W-30, and poured most of it in, checking the level of oil a couple times, so as not to go over. I was satisfied, and then went back inside. I returned about 1/2 hour later, and started the SHO. It immediately began to struggle, running a little rough, so I turned it right off, then tried again. After a moment, and a little looking around for anything obvious, I tried again, and it gradually improved. Later that night, it was fine. I may drain a small amount of oil today to see if that helps. Only other thing that's been happening lately is the idle stays up around 2000RPMs while I'm moving, and the clutch is in, which began after I put my new IAB in. I'm hoping it's just an odd conincendence, which is what a friend suggested to me. Perhaps a little too much oil, or what? Thanks guys, the SHO has me on a problem-a-thon lately! thumbs_u

<small>[ February 04, 2003, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>

 

[SHO--ripper]

I use 10-w30 vavoline for high mile engines. Does your car always idle at 2000 or only when you start it up. My car does that at start to warm the engine.

 

[sdpatt]

The engine needs to be off for a while before checking the oil level. It takes a good length of time (hours) for most of the oil to drain back down into the oil pan to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. It is a good practice to check the oil level before starting the engine in the morning.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

rendyx:
Only other thing that's been happening lately is the idle stays up around 2000RPMs while I'm moving, and the clutch is in, which began after I put my new IAB in.

did you reset the idle after cleaning the IAB?

 

[DougLee25]

Having overfilled your oil slightly is not going to make your car run rough. Something else is obviously wrong.

Doug

 

[Mike Kopstain]

2000rpms is too high, even on a cold start. You may check the gasket around the IAB valve or it is very possible that the valve itself is bad, regardless of whether or not it is new. If the rpms are still staying up when you push the clutch in you want to, again, look for a leaky IAB gasket or a vacuum leak somewhere. You may also look at the VSS.

Run the codes, click the link in the sig.

 

[rendyx]

I did reset the idle, according to Scott's procedure. As for the rough running condition, is it possible that lots of hard driving first could have caused it? It does seem fine now. This condition is not repeating itself at all. I wonder if it is related to the IAB, considering it was idling rough, and the IAB does control the idle. Any thoughts? Could the front idler pully which is in need of replacement fairly soon cause it to hold back a little at first? I remember when my old alternator died (probably a bearing), it did seem to cause the car to stall a couple times (this was about 1/2 year ago).

Another more likely idea I can't believe I didn't take into more consideration: plugs & wires. The rear plugs are who knows how old, and probably drenched in oil. The front ones are Autolite ones which are probably wiped out, but not as old. Both components are being replaced during my valve lash in about 1 1/2 weeks.

<small>[ February 04, 2003, 02:59 PM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>

 

[rendyx]

Okay, I went out and ran my codes, and let a little oil out. I'll check it in a while, and see if ut's about at the full mark, and then again in the morning, as Scott suggested. The codes came up as:

1. 21 - ECT sensor out of range
2. 24 - ACT sensor out of range
3. 25 - Knock sensor not detected

24 and 25 have been around for a couple weeks now, and isn't an ECT the same type of sensor as the ACT? I wonder if the cold weather is causing them to have "issues." The engine was fairly warm when I ran the codes, although the temp gauge was showing cold (intake felt a little warm).

Now, the new IAB came with a fiberous gasket, so I wonder if it does not seal as well as the previous metal/plastic one. First though, I'll give a better description of the high idle, and how it comes about:

1. Start car, idle usually drops to 1500 or so, then to about 1000.
2. I drive along, idle may pop up to 2000 and hold for a little while after I push the clutch in, I suspect only if it was previously at higher RPMs than 2000.

I'm going to go check for any vacuum leaks, then test the cruise control (VSS).

BTW: could this quote explain it?
The reason for this [high idle when moving] behavior is that the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the differential is telling the EEC that the car is still moving, but the computer doesn't know (and has no way of telling) that the transmission is in neutral. This is part of the throttle dashpot software strategy that improves driveability.

<small>[ February 04, 2003, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>