Purple Sho

[76FoMoCo]

You can still run meth without being tuned for it. Tonight my car did 464whp no meth. 503 with meth same tune no adjustments. Methanol still has a ton of benefits like dropping the Intake temps and allowing you to build boost faster and maintain power through a pull even without being tuned for it.

bigger trubos? or just a dyno jet?

 

[DadMobile]

Not sure what your asking.
The only difference between the 464 pull and the 503 pull was replacing the broken methanol nozzle.

 

[802SHO]

IMHO I’d say you wasted money on your tuner not on meth. Not tuning to compensate for aux fuel and increased octane from meth is pretty damn weird. Why tune for anything at this point? Why tune for more air, why tune for race gas, why tune for more fuel, why tune for anything……if you don’t tune for meth?

What the heck is it with the scaredy-cat mindset associated with a little methonal?

I feel like that needed to be said. I’d be pretty damn frustrated @Purple Sho if I was told ….we don’t tune for methonal. I must have missed the bus on the “tuning for methonal is stupid” movement. I think “not” tuning for methonal is stupid.

Would we see more boom tunes? Or would we see more ppl getting their money’s worth out of their parts. Spending money to go faster and then not getting tuning support ….is like two d. I. C. K. S. And no b. I. T. C. H. Find yourself in serious Sh. I. T.

but what the heck do I know. For liability we have waivers…..for incompetence we have refusal. Facts.

 

[Purple Sho]

Yea i thought it was weird as well, and i was definitely disappointed with the outcome but it just made me check in with other options and who knows maybe they will pan out to be better.

 

[802SHO]

Yeah possibly.

 

[stripSHO]

i noticed this when i was attempting to spray methanol at my last dyno session... the car was not tuned for it and i was thinking me spraying meth would richen up the mixture a bit....it made less power and the afr's were the same it wasnt a big decrease but definitely made me come to this conclusion that the ecu is gonna correct and offset the fuel being put into the mix. stripSHO thanks for the advice ive been looking for this type info. I wasn't planning on running the meth with the nitrous, i was actually thinking of taking the whole meth kit off to be honest. Gearhead has expressed that he doesn't tune for meth, so that being said i wasted money on that lol

Did you log the pulls? GH tunes are notorious for large knock ****** events. If the ecu was pulling 5 degrees of timing that would explain why you didn't see any gains

 

[DadMobile]

IMHO I’d say you wasted money on your tuner not on meth. Not tuning to compensate for aux fuel and increased octane from meth is pretty damn weird. Why tune for anything at this point? Why tune for more air, why tune for race gas, why tune for more fuel, why tune for anything……if you don’t tune for meth?

What the heck is it with the scaredy-cat mindset associated with a little methonal?

I feel like that needed to be said. I’d be pretty damn frustrated @Purple Sho if I was told ….we don’t tune for methonal. I must have missed the bus on the “tuning for methonal is stupid” movement. I think “not” tuning for methonal is stupid.

Would we see more boom tunes? Or would we see more ppl getting their money’s worth out of their parts. Spending money to go faster and then not getting tuning support ….is like two d. I. C. K. S. And no b. I. T. C. H. Find yourself in serious Sh. I. T.

but what the heck do I know. For liability we have waivers…..for incompetence we have refusal. Facts.

My nozzle jammed at WOT during a pull last week on the dyno. If the car was meth dependent it would have blown the motor most likely. If the hood is down on a hot day and wide open throttle and something fails .
It’s all perspective. If the car is your daily with a payment or w/e I could see the down the side. If it’s a race car I can the upside, in methanol dependence.
I’m definitely on the side of if you assume the risk then you assume the risk -let those eagles fly!

 

[802SHO]

My nozzle jammed at WOT during a pull last week on the dyno. If the car was meth dependent it would have blown the motor most likely. If the hood is down on a hot day and wide open throttle and something fails .
It’s all perspective. If the car is your daily with a payment or w/e I could see the down the side. If it’s a race car I can the upside, in methanol dependence.
I’m definitely on the side of if you assume the risk then you assume the risk -let those eagles fly!

Now you’re speaking my language, let her eat! Lol!

 

[stripSHO]

A perfectly safe, meth "dependent" tune isn't really a difficult thing to do with these ECUs. Or on 2013+ at least, don't know about '10-'12.

Fueling dependence is a total non-issue. If injector duty cycle exceeds limits then the throttle closes down. Set the limit just above where they normally run with meth, and voila! When the meth stops flowing boost goes down.

Timing dependence could be addressed with IAT compensation. When IAT2 goes above what's normal with meth, start aggressively pulling timing back inline with your non-meth advance curve. Bingo! Bango! You're now tuned for meth and protected when it fails.

 

[Purple Sho]

Alright guys i need help either finding an rpm signal...which is not likely or finding where the COPs main power wire so i can tap it for my RPM switch for the nitrous, anybody know where i can find either. Ive been looking through the web but have only come across a couple wiring diagrams that only pertain to audio stuff

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Alright guys i need help either finding an rpm signal...which is not likely or finding where the COPs main power wire so i can tap it for my RPM switch for the nitrous, anybody know where i can find either. Ive been looking through the web but have only come across a couple wiring diagrams that only pertain to audio stuff

RPM would probably have to come from CKP or CAM sensors. They return directly to the PCM and then probably go to the CAN. CKP appears to be a yellow/violet wire. CAM is brown/blue or green/violet depending which one you are using. As far as the COP (coil on plug I assume), main power is a violet wire coming from Fuse 68. Not sure how the power wire will help you. It seems like it would be a constant 12v. I would think you would be more interested in the command to fire signal which comes from the PCM. This is pin 2 on each coil. (1- white/violet, 2- yellow/blue, 3- blue/orange, 4- green/violet, 5- white/brown, or 6- violet/brown)

 

[Purple Sho]

Thanks for the quick reply Ta2dResqr

i have a MSD DIS-TACH Driver Heres the install guide i could find



So the second option obviously but this is what im looking for

 

[Purple Sho]

Also who thinks me spraying the wet shot is gonna make the ecu lean out the fuel too much. The NOS mini 2 progressive controller has a 2 stage feature which you can activate the fuel right before you activate the nitrous. Most wet kits have a slight lean dip when both solenoids are activated at the exact same time....im wondering if it should be at the same time or if i shoud leave it fuel the nitrous. Im obviously going to test it both ways with a baby shot but i was wanting others opinions.

 

[stripSHO]

Thanks for the quick reply Ta2dResqr

i have a MSD DIS-TACH Driver Heres the install guide i could find

View attachment 81584View attachment 81585

So the second option obviously but this is what im looking for

Perhaps this would make life a little easier than the dis-tach https://www.nitrousexpress.com/signal-synchronizer.asp

 

[yaycandy]

Perhaps this would make life a little easier than the dis-tach https://www.nitrousexpress.com/signal-synchronizer.asp

Thats what i used. Not the same brand but basically the same one. Get with your tuner is in person at the dyno like i did. Most places with dynos dont understand the tuning on the platform for some reason. I have no clue why

 

[802SHO]

Also who thinks me spraying the wet shot is gonna make the ecu lean out the fuel too much. The NOS mini 2 progressive controller has a 2 stage feature which you can activate the fuel right before you activate the nitrous. Most wet kits have a slight lean dip when both solenoids are activated at the exact same time....im wondering if it should be at the same time or if i shoud leave it fuel the nitrous. Im obviously going to test it both ways with a baby shot but i was wanting others opinions.

Leave it so it fuels the potential dip

 

[stripSHO]

Thats what i used. Not the same brand but basically the same one. Get with your tuner is in person at the dyno like i did. Most places with dynos dont understand the tuning on the platform for some reason. I have no clue why

What other brand? NX just released these maybe a month ago so I'm interested who they copied from

 

[yaycandy]

What other brand? NX just released these maybe a month ago so I'm interested who they copied from

Daytona sensors nc2. My bad might not be exactly the same. Nx is the best imo, probably alot easier also

 

[stripSHO]

Daytona sensors nc2. My bad might not be exactly the same. Nx is the best imo, probably alot easier also

Lol yeah definitely not the same. The signal synchronizer is just a product to convert CAN bus pids to analog/pwm signals. You're thinking about the maximizer controller

 

[yaycandy]

Lol yeah definitely not the same. The signal synchronizer is just a product to convert CAN bus pids to analog/pwm signals. You're thinking about the maximizer controller

I was just reading on the NX one. Thats a game changer, everyone will be running nitrous now. Just need a better spot for a button, maybe remap a steering wheel button lol