Pulled engine, now questions

[PFA]

HI all
I used this checklist at the bottom, that ArkanSHO put on another thread...
Now my question is about the struts. Those were never mentioned in the list. I went ahead and and unbolted them from the towers. When I go to put them back in, what procedure should I use? I have never messed with struts/springs before. I am figuring that I will have to get a spring compressor to put them back in. Right? This whole job of pulling the motor took alot longer than 4 hours...ALOT longer....but it was the first time around. Anyway, it's done. Now I have to pulled the head to see what damage was done from the spun cam sprocket. Thanks for the list and any other help!!




As for line by line, let's see if I can do this without looking at it:
Disconnect and remove battery
Disconnect Yellow #6 wire to Mega-fuse
Remove internal floor steering shaft boot.
Disconnect steering shaft at steering box with 10mm pinch bolt above second floor boot.
Disconnect calipers, hang out of the way
Disconnect exhaust system ****** at flex-pipe (grind bolts off is easier up north)
Remove front splash pan between bumper and subframe
Disconnect ground wire to starter.
Disconnect positive wire from starter
Remove lower bolts (4?) from bellousing
Remove 4 torque converter self-locking nuts
Break loose four 18mm sub-frame bolts
Remove headlihts then front bumper cover (access to real bumper to lift from is handy), don't forget to disconnect marker lights and signal leads.
Remove intercooler, Vortech, mounting brackets, blower oil feed lines or other intake up to throttle body and cables
Remove radiator hoses from engine
Disconnect coolant reservior line
Disconnect PS line from reservior to pump
Remove heat lines behind and below EGR
Remove tranmission shift cable
Disconnect large square wiring harness plug above transmission
Disconnect sping-lock fuel lines at fuel rail
Remove passenger side windshield cowling or loose knuckle flesh on next step
Disconnect ECU plug (held in place with 10mm bolt)
Disconnect brake booster and small vacuum line from back of expansion chamber
Disconnect ground from alternator to fireall
Disconnect plug below and outward from ECU plug connected to Eveporator system
Disconnect transmission and power steering lines on drivers sides of coolers
Either evacuate and disconnect AC feed/return lines on compressor OR remove three bolts holding compressor to engine and suspend with coathanger as close to radiator without fan as possible.

lower car onto 4 x 4's or landscaping timbers without the wheels of course.
Remove the 4 subframe bolts
Lift car slowly while watching the AC compressor clearence and looking for overlooked wires or hose connections

Think that was all of it.

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Last edited by ArkanSHO : 03-01-2007 at 09:58 PM.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Unless you're chopping a car up to throw it away, there's no reason to remove the struts or knuckles from the car just to drop the engine, so just leave them alone.

Unless you separated the struts from the springs somehow, there is no need for a spring compressor unless you plan on changing struts, springs, or mounts.

 

[PFA]

Unless you're chopping a car up to throw it away, there's no reason to remove the struts or knuckles from the car just to drop the engine, so just leave them alone.

Unless you separated the struts from the springs somehow, there is no need for a spring compressor unless you plan on changing struts, springs, or mounts.

Ok... I already dropped it down. When I unbolted the struts from the towers, they kind of dropped quickly, that's why I figured a spring compressor in order to put them back in. Maybe I had the car too high and that is why they dropped away...
Thanks

 

[ArkanSHO]

Oops, sorry about skipping the strut portion, thought I covered that but probably not, a lot on my mind lately. In any case, no, you do not need a compressor to put them back in UNLESS you removed the single large nut from the center of the tower cap. It is tricky to get them ligned back up as you drop the car back down on the engine though. Last couple of times a fashioned a retracting guide using couple of bungiechords suspended of the hood struts while supporting the hood with a board to keep it from dropping from the tension.
If you had pneumatics handy splitting the lower ball-joint with a air-fork or slipping the strut from the pinch bolt at the knuckle is sometimes prefered.

As for the time, don't worry about it taking longer, it took me about 5 hours my first time but by the fifth time I was down to 2 hours. Would be less if I used pneumatic tools I am sure.

 

[PFA]

Thanks!

 

[PFA]

Now some more ????????
I know that I have to replace a cam because of the spun sprocket. While the engine is out, I plan on getting the cams welded. I have read that you need special tools to time the cams or something?? As of now, only one will be new, but I need to pull all four. Couldn't I just mark the position on the sprockets and chain?
thanks

 

[PFA]

I still need some answers from above but.....
I figured I would show off some pics I just took..

Rear bank of cams

Rear cam gear shot of spline

Front bank cam with spun sprocket. I posted this one before....

 

[v3r71g0]

Is that metal shavings?

 

[PFA]

Is that metal shavings?

Yes, from the sprocket slipping. This is CAM FAILURE!!! Now I just have to have more time to get the head off and see what damage was caused below.

 

[ArkanSHO]

There are special tools for the timing to align the cams with the crankshaft but in the half dozen or so times I have pulled the heads I have never used them. As for lining a spun sprocket up, Kirk has said there is a notch on the cam tube that lines up with the dimple on the sprocket but I have never looked for it personaly.

 

[66goat]

I Think You Should Replace The Failed Cam. Welding Alone Is Not Enough.

 

[PFA]

I Think You Should Replace The Failed Cam. Welding Alone Is Not Enough.

I think I am planning to do this. It doesn't sound too good to weld the spun cam.
Thanks