PTU **** change

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J persons

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I'm about to change the PTU **** on my '14 SHO PP, and noticed the vent filter on the PTU was a little oily. Is this normal? BTW, on my SHO the vent tube is located at the end of the cylinder head, will make it easy to use as a fill location.
 

SM105K

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I'm about to change the PTU **** on my '14 SHO PP, and noticed the vent filter on the PTU was a little oily. Is this normal? BTW, on my SHO the vent tube is located at the end of the cylinder head, will make it easy to use as a fill location.
Yes the vent will be oily. It is a vent. There shouln't be a tube at the end of the cylinder head. There should be a small hose with a black plastic vent that directly connects to the top of the ptu vent itself. Unless the previous owner added a hose and ran it into the engine compartment....like most of us have when we changed our fluid. Also quite a few of us have drilled and tapped the PTU case for a easier drain.
 

J persons

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To clarify, The PTU vent hose and filter was positioned at the end of the cylinder head. It was too short to use as a fill in its factory configuration, so I removed it and used a longer length of 5/16 hose. The vent ni pple on the PTU is fairly easy to get to. Look up under the left side, just behind the left front tire and you can see it on top of the PTU.
 

Boochy47

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I think I got lucky and have a ford dealer that does it I’m just waiting for my moo lah to be right but super smart too do and they said they do gearbox fluid too or something
 

Boochy47

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I want to get the new yellow coolant also do you guys run yellow coolant?
 

RickyRecon

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I want to get the new yellow coolant also do you guys run yellow coolant?
made the switch myself recently. Coolant temps are around 10-12° cooler across the board since the switch. Also drops down much faster after spirited driving. Highest coolant temp I’ve seen since switching is ~208°

I was recommending switching to another owner in the post Here . Scroll up for initial comment. Get that orange crap out of your car.
 

Majestic

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made the switch myself recently. Coolant temps are around 10-12° cooler across the board since the switch. Also drops down much faster after spirited driving. Highest coolant temp I’ve seen since switching is ~208°

I was recommending switching to another owner in the post Here . Scroll up for initial comment. Get that orange crap out of your car.
That seems unlikely since the orange was actually better at heat rejection. It just wasn't as good at keeping heater cores and water pumps from failing. Perhaps you had your system fully flushed when changing over to the yellow and now it's operating more efficiently.
 

luigisho

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I want to get the new yellow coolant also do you guys run yellow coolant?
which? I changed out from orange in my F 150. I hate that $h1t. I decided to get over the counter fluid not the extra fancy Ford gold. I went with prestone. Why? Because it's worked fine in all vehicles for more decades than I've been alive. I found the orange stuff kinda gunky.
 

yaycandy

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Yea i had issues with the new coolant when i drained coolant to put the intake manifold spacer on and clean the valves. I noticed 10-15 degree temp increase and thought i did something wrong. But no it was the new coolant as others have found. Paid more for the orange from my local ford store. And temp is back to where it should be. You might of needed a coolant change, thats why the new coolant performed better. It wont out perform the old orange. Ive also switched to a 140 thermostat and use amsoil coolant shot. And was retuned running about 145-150 degrees fully warmed up. Heater sucks in the winter now.
 

J persons

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I think I got lucky and have a ford dealer that does it I’m just waiting for my moo lah to be right but super smart too do and they said they do gearbox fluid too or something
I don't use my local dealer for anything anymore. They couldn't even rotate my tires correctly. Last time they had it, they scraped the right lower fender on something and then denied it. They also tore up the under engine cover.
 

RickyRecon

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That seems unlikely since the orange was actually better at heat rejection. It just wasn't as good at keeping heater cores and water pumps from failing. Perhaps you had your system fully flushed when changing over to the yellow and now it's operating more efficiently.
I did flush it when I swapped it out, but I’m not the only one to report lower temps after the switch. Coolant was flushed (not by me) prior to switching to yellow, and orange was replaced, and temps (higher than with the yellow) remained the same with the new orange. Could be though, I’m not a coolant scientist.
 

SeanDev

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To clarify, The PTU vent hose and filter was positioned at the end of the cylinder head. It was too short to use as a fill in its factory configuration, so I removed it and used a longer length of 5/16 hose. The vent ni pple on the PTU is fairly easy to get to. Look up under the left side, just behind the left front tire and you can see it on top of the PTU.
Personally for me I use the fill plug on ptu it is also a magnet plug, and if done right a flush a fill with a pump should take only 15min. Reason I don't like fill by vent tube, to to long to fill, and benefit to using fill plug is you can't screw up fill, any excess just pours out fill plug, and again fill plug is magnet, good to keep it clean as second line of defense. And added benefit of you can pull vent tube, use some pipe cleaner get in the vent and wipe out any sludge build up, so it vents like it should.
 
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J persons

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Personally for me I use the fill plug on ptu it is also a magnet plug, and if done right a flush a fill with a pump should take only 15min. Reason I don't like fill by vent tube, to to long to fill, and benefit to using fill plug is you can't screw up fill, any excess just pours out fill plug, and again fill plug is magnet, good to keep it clean as second line of defense. And added benefit of you can pull vent tube, use some pipe cleaner get in the vent and wipe out any sludge build up, so it vents like it should.
The fill plug on the Perf Package PTU is also a temp sensor. To access the PP fill plug, the temp sensor, heat shield and cat converter must be removed. On the PP version of the PTU it's just easier to use the vent tube. The drain plug at the bottom has the magnet.
My PTU fluid came out amazingly clean looking for having 50K miles on it. It wasn't as dark as I thought it would be. This car has never been raced, and it sees mostly highway miles.
I also got rid of the noise maker by replacing it with the Ford part that didn't have the noise maker attached, and I noticed a slightly oily film inside the intercooler. I guess I need an air/oil separator, but I don't want to spend $300 on one. What is the forum recommendation on air/oil separators that don't cost an arm and a leg.
 

SM105K

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The fill plug on the Perf Package PTU is also a temp sensor. To access the PP fill plug, the temp sensor, heat shield and cat converter must be removed. On the PP version of the PTU it's just easier to use the vent tube. The drain plug at the bottom has the magnet.
My PTU fluid came out amazingly clean looking for having 50K miles on it. It wasn't as dark as I thought it would be. This car has never been raced, and it sees mostly highway miles.
I also got rid of the noise maker by replacing it with the Ford part that didn't have the noise maker attached, and I noticed a slightly oily film inside the intercooler. I guess I need an air/oil separator, but I don't want to spend $300 on one. What is the forum recommendation on air/oil separators that don't cost an arm and a leg.
I have a UPR CC and it did cost me $200 almost 4 years ago. I change my oil religiously every 3k miles, and I get roughly 2 to 3 ounces of crap/oil out of my CC every time. 40k miles of ownership / 3k mile oil changes = 13 oil changes x 2.5 ounces of crap in cc = 32.5 ounces of crap that could have been baked onto my valves.
 

SeanDev

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The fill plug on the Perf Package PTU is also a temp sensor. To access the PP fill plug, the temp sensor, heat shield and cat converter must be removed. On the PP version of the PTU it's just easier to use the vent tube. The drain plug at the bottom has the magnet.
My PTU fluid came out amazingly clean looking for having 50K miles on it. It wasn't as dark as I thought it would be. This car has never been raced, and it sees mostly highway miles.
I also got rid of the noise maker by replacing it with the Ford part that didn't have the noise maker attached, and I noticed a slightly oily film inside the intercooler. I guess I need an air/oil separator, but I don't want to spend $300 on one. What is the forum recommendation on air/oil separators that don't cost an arm and a leg.
You are correct, I'm non-pp, I don't have all that in my way.
 

SeanDev

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I'm about to change the PTU **** on my '14 SHO PP, and noticed the vent filter on the PTU was a little oily. Is this normal? BTW, on my SHO the vent tube is located at the end of the cylinder head, will make it easy to use as a fill location.
And for good maintenance if you pull vent tube from ptu, take a pipe cleaner and cleaned ptu vent to get any sludge out.
 
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