Project most likely over......

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zblackbeast

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Yea true, but ive never dont anything like this before, and im not even sure if that 12x1.75 is correct, PLUS im not really sure how you "size" bolts. HA sorry if im annoying you guys, im really really new at this so i may ask more questions than i should, im just scared to ruin this car because i drove it ONCE and i want to drive it again... ALot! :)
 

RiceeatingSHO

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Yea true, but ive never dont anything like this before, and im not even sure if that 12x1.75 is correct, PLUS im not really sure how you "size" bolts. HA sorry if im annoying you guys, im really really new at this so i may ask more questions than i should, im just scared to ruin this car because i drove it ONCE and i want to drive it again... ALot! :)

I wasn't even 16 1/2 when I bought my SHO. I cut my teeth on this car... don't give up. It's very rewarding.
 

zblackbeast

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Yea, im 17 almost 18.... What all did you do to is when you bought it?? IDK, i think because im so exhausted onthis project that im over reacting, but i just want it done to drive... I need the MPG's mostly!! My dd is a 97 5.0 AWD Explorer...
 

zblackbeast

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HAHA nice.... OK, im going to start her... Im pretty sure all the connectors are connected... Where is the cam and crank position sensor located so i can quadruple check everything is pluged in.. If is get any CEL's ill let you know... I filled the tranny with vavlolene max life, power steering and brakes are full and the coolant has about a gallon in it just to **** the pump. Just need the rod shifter stabilizer bar in to drive her!!!
 

Devin

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why in the sams **** are u cutting that a/c line?
don't ya know u can use the quick disconnect tool set on them????
Eh, I didn't really care at the time. I tried the metal disconnect tool and it didn't work. Eventually I had a tech use the nice ones to take the stubs off. Mr. Rotary Tool is my friend!

Anyway, zBB, don't give up yet, there is a lot more to screw up later!
 

zblackbeast

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HA thats comforting.. Well i hooked up the battery and the only thing that buzzed or showed life was the little black box bolted to the core support.
 

RiceeatingSHO

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Yea, im 17 almost 18.... What all did you do to is when you bought it?? IDK, i think because im so exhausted onthis project that im over reacting, but i just want it done to drive... I need the MPG's mostly!! My dd is a 97 5.0 AWD Explorer...

I turn 18 in October. I've put in a radiator, t-stat and, fog lights and on the more difficult end I've done the rod bearings, front main seal, plugs/wires, and belts...
 

itwonder

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If you do a search, you'll find many past discussions about this problem, and quite a few solutions. The bolt is reported to be M12x1.75. Studs or threaded rod in that size is available from Mcmaster Carr to replace the bolt that is now too short because of the stripped threads in the case. If you can get a stud to engage the remaining threads, screw it all the way to the bottom of the transmission case, and that will be stronger than the original bolt. Being a stud, you will never have to remove it again, so if the threads are somewhat damaged it does not matter as long as it is in tight.

One fellow just used a 1/2" course thread bolt secured into the transmission case with JB Weld. If going that route, I would again use a stud instead of a bolt.
 

newby92

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ok the biggest thing that i would check would be that you have all the power wires hooked up right. the cam sensor hooks up right below the intake on the passenger side on the rear bank of the motor. it is right on the end of the rear cam. the crank sensor you wont be able to check unless you have the timing belt covers off the engine. the motor will still crank without them so if the only thing getting power is the ircm then something else is wrong. if you are really this clueless about cars then you are going to be have to be a fast learner with this car. i dont mean to discourage you but get your thinking cap on and read ALOT. are there any members in your area that can help you out??? ask around the people on this forum are very helpful and im sure for the price of gas for them to get to you and a few beers you can get this sorted out.
 
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zblackbeast

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HA yes, i figured out the reason for no power, i just switched the started and alt power wires up.. Thats solved,it just wont crank now...
 

RiceeatingSHO

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Fuel lines? Fuel Pump priming? DIS! Check the DIS.

Fuel + Spark = Fire
 
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zblackbeast

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No, it wont even crank.... DIS is pluged in. I just get one click when i turn the key like its shorting on something...But i i have the ground comming off the starter bolted to the sub frame next to the power steering cooler and the cruise control....
 

RiceeatingSHO

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No, it wont even crank.... DIS is pluged in. I just get one click when i turn the key like its shorting on something...But i i have the ground comming off the starter bolted to the sub frame next to the power steering cooler and the cruise control....

I think the started ground goes to the block if I remember correctly. I would definately start with the starter if you an hear the solenoid clicking over.
 

zblackbeast

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Ill take a pix really quick
Ok, the one in the middle where it splits red and black (comes from battery), you can see where the positive end goes, and the neg goes to the subframe.. The other one that im pushing out of the way comes from the drivers side of the car and has 2 positives, one for starter and the other for alternator.... correct me please if im wrong

Photo121 3
 

itwonder

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The large negative cable should connect to one of the starter mounting bolts that goes through the bellhousing, not to the subframe.

IMG 1984
 

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