Prep for Paint

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Techpriest

89 MTX
Joined
May 28, 2006
Messages
98
Reaction score
1
Location
McPherson, KS
My 89 SHO needs a paint job. Like many of it's siblings all the clear-coat has come off the top of the car and is now working it's way down the sides. I have some surface rust on the trunk lid and some other places but no real body damage. It has the small dings typical of a car that old, but I don't plan to fix them.

I looked into a "real" paint job and that more then totals the car. If I had $2500+ to spend I would sell the car for $1500 and buy a $4000 car with good paint already and be much better off.

I looked into doing it myself, but materials are over $500, assuming I can find the equipment to borrow for free. Not having done it before I figure the odds of it coming out right are maybe 50-50 and I am not willing to bet $500 on those odds.

That leaves Maaco. I have heard from many people to do the prep work myself.

I have done some looking on the web and even looked in some books in the library and they all tell you how to prep a car by taking it to bare metal. I was just wanting to sand the existing paint to get the clear-coat off so that it does not fall off later and take the new paint with it.

How should I prep the car where there is clear coat?
How do I prep the car where there is no clear coat?
How do I prep the surface rust? I sanded to bare metal in those spots and sprayed with Rustolieum primer but it came back. It looks like it came back from under the primer. I see a number of products on the shelf for taking care of rust. Any of them work well that can be painted over?
Is there a site with these instructions I am missing?
Any paint and body people in Kansas want their PC fixed? Let's make a deal!

Thanks!
 

Brett

SHOs before HOs
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
1,323
Reaction score
159
Location
Minnesnowta
DONT take it down to the metal. I made that mistake on my first car a TSi. :rofl: If theres no rust or dents. Just scuff it up with a brissel pad. This is what we do at school (auto collision technology). It will scuff up the paint/body enough for new paint to adhere to.
 

NJSHO

Clean Your Shorts!
Joined
May 14, 2004
Messages
1,269
Reaction score
51
Location
NJ
See the thread on using a roller to paint your car. Just read it before you make any comments.
 

93rev2sev

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
6,461
Reaction score
1,825
Location
Hockeytown
quote: I looked into a "real" paint job and that more then totals the car. If I had $2500+ to spend I would sell the car for $1500 and buy a $4000 car with good paint already and be much better off.

a "real" paint job will look a helluva lot better than a brand new 2007 car.
 

Techpriest

89 MTX
Joined
May 28, 2006
Messages
98
Reaction score
1
Location
McPherson, KS
93rev2sev said:
a "real" paint job will look a helluva lot better than a brand new 2007 car.

I have seen some very nice SHOs go for under $4000 in these forums. I would be better of buying a SHO worth $4000 than spending $4000 to make my $1500 SHO be worth $2500. Depreciation is fine with me, so long as someone else is paying for it!
 
Back
Top