Post 60K Problem, HELP!

[aj_sho]

Hi All,
I have a '93 ATX 3.2L SHO with about 90K miles on it, and I just did the 60K tuneup - adjust valve shims, change timing belt & main oil seal, wires, plugs, intake & valve cover seals, plug well seals, filters, fluids, etc.
Anyway, I just got the thing back together and it started no problem, but runs progressively rougher until it stalls. Judging by the smell, it's choking on fuel. Has this heppened to anyone? Any prelim ideas?

Thanks!

 

[sdpatt]

Welcome to the SHO Forum. Sorry to hear about your post-service problems. Did you perform the service yourself? Did you have procedures to follow for the valve adjustment and timing belt replacement? Are you aware that the timing belt was not required to be changed until 100,000 miles on the 3.2L engine?

Under what conditions does it stall? Is this at idle or even while rolling and under throttle? Can you provide any other specific information to help with a diagnosis?

Did you set the idle program within 70 seconds after the first start of the engine by putting the shifter in D and adding all of the accessory loads (A/C, headlights, turn steering wheel)?


------------------
Scott

1991, 254K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[aj_sho]

I did perform the service myself, and I did have procedures to follow for the adjustment & replacement - I've had the factory service manual for as long as i've owned the car and I got the kit w/video from CinciSHO. I did know that the timing belt doesn't need to be changed for another few thousand miles (i'm actually @ 90K+), but my car was recently hit, so since I have body panels and my front bumper off, it seemed like a good time to get it all done.

I'm sorry for the very incomplete description, I was hoping for a 'oh, I did my 60K and that happened, I just forgot to hook up the vacuum line to my fuel pressure regulator' kind of solution. I'm going to go through the fuel system diag and read my computer codes this weekend, but Re: what you asked....

The engine stalls at idle after running for about 30seconds, getting progressively rougher from the time that it starts. I have not set the idle program, I wasn't aware of how to do that or that it was necessary. I'll give that a shot though and come back with more details. Thanks for the quick response!

 

[TwiceSHOwn]

I had a dirty MAF that caused the symptoms you described. Cleaning it and plugging it back in fixed it. Check the MAF first. Is it throwing codes when it is running or not until it stalls. Reseting idle should be done any time you disconnect the battery.

 

[sdpatt]

You may want to check the electrical connector to the idle air control (IAC) valve. Also check the secondary actuator and EGR vacuum hose connections.

Did you clean out the throttle body bore? Did you remove and clean the IAC valve?

It seems that the EEC is not trying too hard to keep the engine running. By the way, did you reconnect the fuel diaphragm vacuum hose?

Scott