Odd power problems.

[xekrubx]

Had this car for a month now. I didnt test drive this. The trusted person that did said it was just fine.
It feels like someone is choking it from 1/4 to WOT until 4k. Normal or slowly progressive take off is alright. Not great. And even past 4k is better but wonky. Ive driven cars with turbo lag. This isnt it.
I always felt like thats not right for the power its supposed to have. I did some reading and bought the CRC turbo and valve cleaner. Results were night and day. Completely different vehicle. I went from "Its scary to cut into traffic" to "Im going to half throttle chirp the tires at 35 and pass this BMW"
PROBLEM SOLVED Thank you very much *Victory lap*
Not so. That power lasted 5 days. Went back to choking until 4k. Sometimes randomly choking even harder at takeoff making it dangerouly slow.
All this with no codes.
I read that when you do the cleaner the extra junk likes to cake around the spark plugs so I ordered the colder plugs on Amazon that come from 5 star. Replaced 5 out of 6 last night because the bolt on the last one at the firewall (5 or 6?) decided to infinite spin. I ran out of light. Ill pull that with the insert this weekend and try to fix.
Doing the plugs I got a more detailed view of the pipes. The crossover in the back was a bit difficult to get back together. But im not seeing a visual leak. And definitely not a leak that CRC would have temporarily fixed.
Do you think this car was so neglected I should run another can of the cleaner through it? Or is that a waste of $15. It worked the first time. What would cause it to fix the car for a 4-5 days and go all sad doggo again. Maybe loosened gunk being so much it got back up in the business?
I installed the Roush intake (Ordered when I thought I fixed it) and did see a small puddle of oil in the stock box before I removed it.

If this collection of things and mistakes rings a bell, id like to know.

 

[xekrubx]

Was going past the original Auto Zone I got the other cleaner from. If course they were out. So I grabbed the Lucas Deep Clean GDI spray. I now notice maybe my last spray caused the oil puddle in the air box maybe? Idk.
Did it one person. Stick between the seat and pedal. Engine at 2000-2500. Now letting it sit.

 

[FREAK_SHO]

Check the zip tied hose in the pic to see if yours is detached.

 

[xekrubx]

Check the zip tied hose in the pic to see if yours is detached.

I've seen this exact photo and suggestion while searching the issue.
I actually pulled this hose allowing more movement in the charge pipe to get better access around the rear plugs. It was on well when I removed it and went back on solid. But it will stick in my head as a potential issue down the road requiring small clamps.

 

[xekrubx]

After the can of Lucas I only drove it about a mile. Next day I worked from home so I didn't drive it again until last night and that was only a few miles. I can feel it getting better. I remember the CRC cleaner also not working immediately and needing quite a few miles before waking up. Of course you need to burn everything off. I am nervous of too much crud burning potentially clogging the cats. But something has to be done to get it clean. If that's the issue.

 

[Bronco2fan]

Have you thought about scoping the cylinders and walnut blasting? You really have to see what's in there to determine if that's the problem,

 

[Zpak]

How did the plugs look?

You can pick up a scope pretty cheep and start peeking around at the valves going in the MAP sensor hole on the intake.

 

[xekrubx]

The plugs weren't great. I could see the worn divit in the strap and the gap was .035.
I was still able to swap 5 of 6. I bought a 90 degree drill adapter to spin the life out of the stuck one and make it hot enough to melt out. Then change the 6th. I'll attempt that tomorrow.
I don't have a borescope but I'm now seriously considering buying one. But oddly the CRC worked the first time. Until It didn't anymore.
I also thought walnut blasting was way more involved. Did some research. Yeah, that's definitely in my wheelhouse once I buy a larger compressor.

 

[xekrubx]

This last week the car came back. During 90-95° weather. I call this mode "wet cat". The other mode is "sad dog"
Wet cat almost breaks tire when you floor it at 30mph. Rear squat and nose in the air.
Sad dog feel less than my previous 5.3 "SaaBlazer"
So I've been wet cat again all week. Until leaving work today. It was wet cat until I hit the highway and it was like a switch was turned off at 40mph. Sad dog mode. It's been back a couple short times.
I've read about knock sensor wire shorting. I haven't been able to check since I'm with my 2 year old.
I've been reading cylinder 1 timing with my bluetooth app on the phone. It's usually advanced 30 to 40. The app doesn't track KR at least that ive found yet.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I was still able to swap 5 of 6. I bought a 90 degree drill adapter to spin the life out of the stuck one and make it hot enough to melt out.

Are you saying the plug would spin but not come out?

 

[xekrubx]

Are you saying the plug would spin but not come out?

The nut insert lost its hold because previous owner/mechanic over tightened.
So I get infinite spin until I spin it fast enough to melt out.
Melt is how they get in so gotta melt out.

 

[xekrubx]

The car has been sad dog since my last post. I looked into the knock sensor wires.
I had been monitoring cylinder 1 timing advance. I imagine if it was knocking or shorting it would be backing off timing. But it was +35-40. I'm watching this with Bluedriver. A bluetooth dongle that connects to my phone. It's quite extensive for $100.
So today I decided to look for them pesky wires. They looked quite normal with sleeving on them as they pass under the intake manifold.
I didnt see any breaks in the wire insulation. But for good measure I used zip ties to pull and elevate the wires.
Wouldn't you know, it feels better.
Wet cat is back.

 

[xekrubx]

But I also believe I've been acclimated. Before the SHO I drove a 5.3 SAAB 9-7x. So when it first hit wet cat I was like "oh damn".
Before the SAAB I drove a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Supercharged 3.8.
There have been times this sho has been slower than the gtp.
Now that it's maybe back I'm watching the 0-60 and it looks back.
Now I got the cold plugs after I fix the last one and a 3 bar MAP sensor in the box. Until I source a good tune.

 

[bpd1151]

Have you ever checked the rubber diaphragm(s) on each factory/electric BOV to ensure niether are torn or compromised in any way?

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

 

[xekrubx]

Have you ever checked the rubber diaphragm(s) on each factory/electric BOV to ensure niether are torn or compromised in any way?

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using

Yeah. I've yanked and pulled on every single rubber part that's part of the intake system. It all seems sealed and connected.
I just did an early oil change to get a good look at the turbos and connections and they are tight.
Like I said, it seems to be back. Maybe the knock sensor was shorting. But it's between short and no short at such a high frequency that the ecu doesn't recognize it to throw a code but also doesn't run right?
Does that make sense?

 

[xekrubx]

 

[kryptto]

View attachment 88445

is that a cracked pipe? not good.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

The nut insert lost its hold because previous owner/mechanic over tightened.
So I get infinite spin until I spin it fast enough to melt out.
Melt is how they get in so gotta melt out.

Your talking the insert in the valve cover not the plug correct? If so, apply light pressure with a small pry bar or screwdriver and back it out. Then use pliers to get it off the bolt. Then use some epoxy around the insert. High speed spinning it out is going to destroy the valve cover and you won't have enough material to hold it when you put it back in. It is pressed in as an interference fit.

 

[xekrubx]

Your talking the insert in the valve cover not the plug correct? If so, apply light pressure with a small pry bar or screwdriver and back it out. Then use pliers to get it off the bolt. Then use some epoxy around the insert. High speed spinning it out is going to destroy the valve cover and you won't have enough material to hold it when you put it back in. It is pressed in as an interference fit.

I spent hours with an assortment of prybars applying pressure. Or lift?
I'm at the point it needs to be ruined to get it out. It was ruined before I bought the car by the person that torqued it to infinity and beyond. And then I need to JB weld it back into the cover.
Then it's very light touch for the rest of the time I own the vehicle. At least 5 years.
I also work at a company where we hot install threaded inserts. So if it ever got worse after my halfassed fix I could hot insert a larger diameter hold with the same threads. After I remove the cover. This is a cover in place bandaid.

Side note. Car is still wet cat.
Ziptie knock sensor wire fix is still solid.

 

[xekrubx]

is that a cracked pipe? not good.

Cracked where?