Ok people im at a loss if i cant get this thing figured out im afraid she is off to the scrapper and i dont want that to happen. I changed spark plugs and wires. Turned it over didnt start. I decided to hit the button in the trunk, and for some reason it started after clicking it on and off a couple times. The cars pump comes on i think i can hear a buzzing. It ran for like 2 minutes slowly sounding worse untill it died like before. A noice was comming from passenger side where the pulleys are. Sounded like a loud exuast but its not the exuast! My father said it sounded like it was struggleing for gas SOME ONE PLEASE HELP
PLEASE HELP
- Thread starter Jesse
- Start date
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luigisho
SHO Member
Are you close to a SHO owner that is familiar with the car? Not to flame you or anything but your descriptions of what you're attempting are a little scattershot.
To fix something you need to methodically determine what is operating properly system by system and part by part. I'm not sure what you're looking to for the answer. You've gone from the plugs to the fuel relay in the trunk to the timing area.
It would be a shame to scrap a car because of owner's lack of diligence. Then again that's where the good deals are to be had.
Now that the car has sputtered a bit maybe a few error codes were thrown. Now would be an optimal time to check.
Does the fuel pump prime if you turn the key before you engage the starter? Is the fuel pump operating properly? Is there proper fuel pressure at the fuel rails? If yes go to another system. If no delve further into where the failure is occurring.
Is the battery producing enough juice? Is the alt. charging properly? If yes go to spark-
Are the spark plugs and wires operating properly? IS the engine in time? Maybe the belt slipped. Do the cam timing marks line up? how about a timing light?
Just an imperfect example of a quick methodical check off. You need to eliminate the possibilities in a logical manner. Error codes will help. Good plugs and wires will really help. Fuel system check will help. Maybe it's just a crank sensor. You need to eliminate much more stuff to know where to look.
<small>[ October 30, 2002, 10:24 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
To fix something you need to methodically determine what is operating properly system by system and part by part. I'm not sure what you're looking to for the answer. You've gone from the plugs to the fuel relay in the trunk to the timing area.
It would be a shame to scrap a car because of owner's lack of diligence. Then again that's where the good deals are to be had.
Now that the car has sputtered a bit maybe a few error codes were thrown. Now would be an optimal time to check.
Does the fuel pump prime if you turn the key before you engage the starter? Is the fuel pump operating properly? Is there proper fuel pressure at the fuel rails? If yes go to another system. If no delve further into where the failure is occurring.
Is the battery producing enough juice? Is the alt. charging properly? If yes go to spark-
Are the spark plugs and wires operating properly? IS the engine in time? Maybe the belt slipped. Do the cam timing marks line up? how about a timing light?
Just an imperfect example of a quick methodical check off. You need to eliminate the possibilities in a logical manner. Error codes will help. Good plugs and wires will really help. Fuel system check will help. Maybe it's just a crank sensor. You need to eliminate much more stuff to know where to look.
<small>[ October 30, 2002, 10:24 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
the reason i keep flip flopping is cause the spark plugs and wires work, it sputters sickly and it only sputtered when i messed with emergency shut off. The nois is comming from the side where the belts are, what are the numbers for on that plastic peice buy the belt? If a fuel pump was bad would it still start? where can i get a tool to check my pressure. Give me some tips cant get codes for a week but what should i be looking for? No engine light comes on when started. Plz help me out sorry bout my unclearness
luigisho
SHO Member
I get that you're frustrated and in a little over your head here. There's a learning curve and it's going to take a little time to get this corrected.
You stated that the pump primes when you turn the key correct? Is this always the case or are you messing with the inertia switch in the trunk other than the initial reset. It should not trigger itself and pop up. You can measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (looks like a valve for a tire) off the fuel rail. Places like AutoZone, Sears, etc.. sell these. I don't have the pressure specs. on hand but I'm sure someone here has them.
I'm not clear about the sound you're hearing from the timing area or near the belts. Is it like a backfire or something?
If the car turned over and maybe got to run for a sec. or two it may have triggered error codes. There is a simple way to check these with a paperclip and looking at the check engine light and counting the flashes. Check out the instructions on the shotimes.com website under the care and feeding section. There is a link to dalidesign (sp?) which has more detailed info for eec IV error codes. If any are present it could really help focus where to look.
You stated that the pump primes when you turn the key correct? Is this always the case or are you messing with the inertia switch in the trunk other than the initial reset. It should not trigger itself and pop up. You can measure the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (looks like a valve for a tire) off the fuel rail. Places like AutoZone, Sears, etc.. sell these. I don't have the pressure specs. on hand but I'm sure someone here has them.
I'm not clear about the sound you're hearing from the timing area or near the belts. Is it like a backfire or something?
If the car turned over and maybe got to run for a sec. or two it may have triggered error codes. There is a simple way to check these with a paperclip and looking at the check engine light and counting the flashes. Check out the instructions on the shotimes.com website under the care and feeding section. There is a link to dalidesign (sp?) which has more detailed info for eec IV error codes. If any are present it could really help focus where to look.
I had to mess with the switch in the back for it to start. There is a noise by the pulleys. Its like a rattleing sound and the engine is vibrating a little more than usual. Seems like it runs crappier and crapier and then dies. When it starts. What is those numbers on the plactic peice by the pulley for? the yellow line matches up on the zero if that means anything i dont know. i will try to descripe the noise. You know like if you got a lose muffler and it rattles real loud? its like that but louder. And its comming from the passenger side of the car buy the pulleys. i will have codes pulled from it soon. If the CID is dead what happens?
luigisho
SHO Member
If the CID is not working properly it runs like crap. If the cps isn't working it doesn't run at all. Are the pulleys on securely?
luigisho
SHO Member
May be something.
rangerj
Active Member
Jesse,
Now that you have had it running, you can pull codes. If the CID (camshaft position sensor)is bad you should have a code. The Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor can cause the symptoms you describe when it is failing.
This sensor is a $30 part from Auto Zone. If it caused a code, even one time, I would replace it.
Before you replace it make sure you have a good electrical connection. Check the connection for any corrosion, etc.
You need to slow down and approach your problems systematically. Take them one at a time and determine what are the symptoms, and from there determine what is the cause.
For example; you determined that the engine was running rough. You checked the plugs and found the plug wells full of oil. You cleaned out the oil from the plug wells and replaced the plugs and plug wires.
This would solve the rough idle for a short time only, because you have not addressed the cause of the problem. The plug well seals are allowing oil to leak into the plug wells.
The seals need to be replaced or the new plugs and wires will be ruined in a short time. Again, you have not addressed the "Cause" of the problem until you replace the plug well seals.
But, even this is not your immediate problem if you cannot get it to run and continue to run. So, you need to do some more mechanical detective work. Take it one step at a time and listen to what these forum members are telling you.
An engine needs two things to run, gas and spark.
A fuel pressure test will tell you if there is enough fuel pressure at the injectors, right? This would also tell you that the fuel pump and fuel filter are OK, right?
You can test the power pack as described in a current post by a forum member. That post is just above yours or just below. I don't remember. I do remember that it will tell you how to check you power pack.
Then whats next in the "Spark" system?
The plugs and plug wires are new, so you know they are OK, right? OK, what do you want to check next?
The CID? The CPS? Why not check the codes?
Do you understand what I am trying to tell you Jesse? Slow down and think! Make a list of things to check and how to check them. Then check them, and fix whatever fails the test.
If you do not find the problem with the first list, make another list and continue checking and testing. Develope a system.
A good service manual has a system for checking most common problems. If you do not have one you can usually get the information at a library, or from forums like this one.
E-mail me and let me know where you are in Ohio. If you are reasonably close by I may be able to help you. rangerj
Now that you have had it running, you can pull codes. If the CID (camshaft position sensor)is bad you should have a code. The Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor can cause the symptoms you describe when it is failing.
This sensor is a $30 part from Auto Zone. If it caused a code, even one time, I would replace it.
Before you replace it make sure you have a good electrical connection. Check the connection for any corrosion, etc.
You need to slow down and approach your problems systematically. Take them one at a time and determine what are the symptoms, and from there determine what is the cause.
For example; you determined that the engine was running rough. You checked the plugs and found the plug wells full of oil. You cleaned out the oil from the plug wells and replaced the plugs and plug wires.
This would solve the rough idle for a short time only, because you have not addressed the cause of the problem. The plug well seals are allowing oil to leak into the plug wells.
The seals need to be replaced or the new plugs and wires will be ruined in a short time. Again, you have not addressed the "Cause" of the problem until you replace the plug well seals.
But, even this is not your immediate problem if you cannot get it to run and continue to run. So, you need to do some more mechanical detective work. Take it one step at a time and listen to what these forum members are telling you.
An engine needs two things to run, gas and spark.
A fuel pressure test will tell you if there is enough fuel pressure at the injectors, right? This would also tell you that the fuel pump and fuel filter are OK, right?
You can test the power pack as described in a current post by a forum member. That post is just above yours or just below. I don't remember. I do remember that it will tell you how to check you power pack.
Then whats next in the "Spark" system?
The plugs and plug wires are new, so you know they are OK, right? OK, what do you want to check next?
The CID? The CPS? Why not check the codes?
Do you understand what I am trying to tell you Jesse? Slow down and think! Make a list of things to check and how to check them. Then check them, and fix whatever fails the test.
If you do not find the problem with the first list, make another list and continue checking and testing. Develope a system.
A good service manual has a system for checking most common problems. If you do not have one you can usually get the information at a library, or from forums like this one.
E-mail me and let me know where you are in Ohio. If you are reasonably close by I may be able to help you. rangerj
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Hmm..
Runs rough and backfires after the plugs and wires were replaced?
Plug wires are installed in the wrong order.
BTDT
Steve
Runs rough and backfires after the plugs and wires were replaced?
Plug wires are installed in the wrong order.
BTDT
Steve
jelloslug
Digital
Its a distributorless ignition. There is no way to get the timing off without putting the wires on the wrong plugs. I would check the wires again. Don't forget that the Chilton manual has the wiring wrong.
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