Please Help! Solenoid Keeps Going Bad! WHY?!?!

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Ok, I'm on my SECOND starter solenoid. The first one lasted about 5 hours until it got stuck and caused to starter to keep going. Then, I went to Autozone and bought a Duralast and it lasted until 15 minutes ago. I tapped it and it cut off. Tried to start again, got stuck, tapped it, shut off.


Please, somebody tell me why in the **** this keeps happening.

Thanks!

 

[HotRodKid]

low voltage can do it. its the electrical version of riding the clutch when it comes to solonoids.

contacts dont pull tight and they arc a lot because of it, burning the solenoid out in the process

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

low voltage can do it. its the electrical version of riding the clutch when it comes to solonoids.

contacts dont pull tight and they arc a lot because of it, burning the solenoid out in the process

So, would an old battery cable cause this?? The cable from the battery TO the solenoid is pretty old and nasty lookin'.

Or, maybe I should have the battery checked too?

 

[hawkeye18]

Go to AAP or autozone and get the whole charging system tested.

 

[HotRodKid]

if the cable looks like ****, replace it. even if it isnt the problem its still not acceptable to have on the car.

how fast does the car crank when the starter is still good ?

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Go to AAP or autozone and get the whole charging system tested.

I would, but I have to get a new solenoid first.

I'm going to get a new battery cable too. ****, the only things left after that is the starter and alternator!

Sometimes, I think my car is mad at me for something I did.........

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

if the cable looks like ****, replace it. even if it isnt the problem its still not acceptable to have on the car.

how fast does the car crank when the starter is still good ?

Fast. Doesn't seem to have a power issue at all. That's why i haven't replaced the cable yet. Well, that and I'm slightly on the broke side lately......

 

[Off Road SHO]

Yeah, what HRK said. The solenoid MUST have a good ground ALL the way back to the battery's negative terminal. Not just to the fender it's mounted on, but through the fender to the firewall, to the other fender, and then to the battery's negative post, or whatever path Ford designed in.

Then again, if it's a cheapie made in China by a guy who was making umbrellas the day before, don't expect too much.

Tom

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Yeah, what HRK said. The solenoid MUST have a good ground ALL the way back to the battery's negative terminal. Not just to the fender it's mounted on, but through the fender to the firewall, to the other fender, and then to the battery's negative post, or whatever path Ford designed in.

Then again, if it's a cheapie made in China by a guy who was making umbrellas the day before, don't expect too much.

Tom

Both solenoid I bought had "Made in China" printed on them.

I'll check all the wires tomorrow and get a solenoid I found at NAPA. It's $23, premium, and NOT made in chine.

If anybody has any other info, please post. I'll be crawling all over the car tomorrow.

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Thanks to all for the help!!

My SHO is up and running again. It was worse than I thought though. The battery cable that ran to the solenoid was rusty on the battery side and there was a spot in the middle where the rubber was melted off and there was exposed wire. After new wire and solenoid, all is well!:woo-hoo:

Thanks again!

 

[1stSHO]

Your 1st mistake is your going to TwiliteZone!!

If it say "DURA"...You know its crap!!!

Glad to see its going now....

PM me your phone number.....I have a couple of questions for ya!!

Love,
Roy

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Your 1st mistake is your going to TwiliteZone!!

If it say "DURA"...You know its crap!!!

Glad to see its going now....

PM me your phone number.....I have a couple of questions for ya!!

Love,
Roy

You have a message.:wave:

 

[mickeymudge]

I know this is a hella old post, but I just had to share why my Taurus was going through solonoids. The car would like try to start itself with no key in the ignition. Then there were times where I would go to crank it and it would continue to crank long after I let go of the key. After about 3 solonoid replacments, I figured out what my problem was, I had an oil leak that was saturating the starter, then if I ever warmed up the car, and turned it off, and tried to start it again while it was still hot, the cranking was slow. What was happening was under that condition the starter was causing way more of a deman on the solonoid, then causing the solonoid to weld and bend. Of course its bad past that point, but I fixed the oil leak, replaced the starter and solonoid and all was good.

 

[Shovert]

I assume applies to the old SHO.
Second thing go to Ford and get a Ford one. I learned hard way on a Mustang and someone here posted learned that also on a SHO. Maurice
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=119679&highlight=solinoid
Edit yes I also know this is a old thread. I also realize he is new and didn't know what I mention or he didn't mention it. The SHO starter is too expensive to buy twice.