Please Help Me!

[SHOMac23]

Car is not starting after driving for a long time. It will start up cold no problem.

Pulled codes214 Cylinder ID Circuit Fault, 124-TPvolts High/Idle Validation Switch, 10- Snap Throttle, 212- No tachometer input to processor spout.

I don't know what any of these are, any ideas, or help?

Thank You

 

[SHOMac23]

124-TP circuit output higher than expected

212-IDM circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded.

214-CID circuit failure.

This is what I found so far, anyone know what I would do to remedy these problems?

 

[jedhead]

Most likely cause of your problems is the crankshaft position sensor. The engine gets hot, coolant weeps from the water pump gets the CPS hot and wet. After it dries off and cools works fine.

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...le=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=76
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=246

Bob

 

[SHOMac23]

Thank you so much for replying. So I did replace the water pump a bit back, due to leaking. I really think it is the crankshaft position sensor. But if the water pump is new, do you think something else could be leaking on the sensor? Or do you think this means it is something else? Thanks again for helping me out.

 

[SuperHO]

it simply means you should've saved yourself some trouble and replaced the sensor while you were already in there. there's a chance you could get by with a good cleaning, since it's possible that there's a buildup of crud on there from the leaky water pump, but if you're that deep, ya may as well just replace it and your timing belt as well.

 

[SHOMac23]

Maybe I wasn't clear, I replaced the timing belt and water pump a few months back. I'm wondering if the sensor was bad then, or is there a leak somewhere else making the sensor bad? I'm just wondering if it is indeed the sensor if it is already a new water pump in there. Thanks guys!

 

[jmpSHO]

Chances are the sensor just went bad now, they do go bad without coolant leaking on them but I am sure your coolant leak before didn't help it any. Maybe your new water pump is leaking.

 

[SHOMac23]

Thanks for the response, OK looks like consensus is the crank sensor. Hopefully new waterpump isn't leaking, LOL. Well Autozone quoted me at 58 bucks for the sensor, I'll let you guys know what happens, probably gonna do this upcoming week sometime. If anyone else has opinions I'd love to hear then on the situation or procedure. Thanks again

 

[jmpSHO]

Could also be a bad cam sensor. Has that ever been replaced?

 

[SHOMac23]

No that has not been replaced, would that cause my no starts when hot also? Is it in another area not accessible when replacing the crank sensor?

 

[jmpSHO]

Actually disregard my last post I believe that with 212 and 214 codes that you're DIS bad.

 

[SHOMac23]

Sorry what is DIS?

212-IDM circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded.

214-CID circuit failure.

 

[jmpSHO]

It's the ignition control module that sits on the right top side of the intake on the cross over tube. With the two codes together (212 & 214) I would have to say that the DIS/ICM is your problem.

 

[SHOMac23]

wow thanks so much, i just found this on the DIS- "Ignition Module
The Distributor Ignition System module (DIS) rarely fails. When it does, it is almost always caused by overheating because of a warm environment. It sits on the side of that beautiful intake manifold and is remarkably easy to replace."

Would you agree it's easy to replace, and about how much would it be. Thanks again I really appreciate it.

 

[jmpSHO]

It's very simple to replace however it's a little expensive, I think around $140. If you decide to replace it make sure to put dielectric grease on the back of it.

 

[SHOMac23]

any diagrams or instructions on the replacement?

 

[SHOMac23]

So I just read on a ford forum that if your RPM gauge temporarily doesn't work when having these problems, it is generally your cam sensor. I may have failed to mention that my RPM gauge has been doing that. Any thoughts?

 

[jedhead]

If you suspect the DIS is failing from heat, I would buy of can of air over at Fry's, hold the can upside down and cool off the DIS. If the car starts after cooling, that the problem.

Bob

 

[jedhead]

So I just read on a ford forum that if your RPM gauge temporarily doesn't work when having these problems, it is generally your cam sensor. I may have failed to mention that my RPM gauge has been doing that. Any thoughts?

I had changed my CPS when I did the first 60K as a precaution. Of course Murphy found me and the new CPS failed 4 months later. The tach would read 400rpm while cranking, but no spark.

Bob

 

[jmpSHO]

That's why you got the code 212. I gave you my opinion and yes I could be wrong but if it was my SHO I would replace the DIS or maybe go to a junk yard and get one there.