Please help, ATX 60,000, how do I turn the cams?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ggsho93

New Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Raymond, NH
I want to start by saying hello to all of you, and I hope that you guys' can help me somehow.
I am in the process of doing a 60,000 on my 1993 ATX and am having some trouble getting the cams to spin. I have read several articles on different SHO sites to get the info I needed to do this job. However all that I could find was jacking up one, front side of the car, loosening up the sparkplugs to relieve compression,and then rotating the front tire that is raised up off the ground to rotate the cams. However,they said to put it in 5th gear,my problem is I have an automatic and tried every gear and the cams won't move. I have everything apart (intake,valve covers,etc.) ,and have no idea how to move them. I even bought Mark Nunnally's dvd on the 60,000 and he used a breaker bar to loosen up the crank,my problem is, my vehicle was already apart when I got this dvd, and I cannot turn over the engine to break the bolt loose. I don't even know what this does anyway. I am at my wits end and hope that someone out there can help me out of a bind. I know most of you people own the MTX's, in which I wished I had myself (2 trannies after) , but maybe some of you know what I am talking about,I hope. Sorry for the length of this, but I wanted to be thorough. Thanks in advance to you all !
 

Off Road SHO

Moderator
Joined
Jan 16, 2002
Messages
5,684
Reaction score
1,292
Location
Arizona
If you still have the bottom pulley, put it back on the crank and put the bolt that fastens it, back in. Then use a 19mm or 3/4" socket with a breaker bar and turn the motor clockwise with the wrench. A breaker bar is a non-ratcheting wrench with a swing over handle used because of its' length and toughness. Ratcheting mechanism are weaker.

If you've removed the timing belt also; grab the old belt and wrap it around one of the upper cam sprockets like an upside-down necktie. Put on a pair of gloves and tightly grasp both sides of the belt at about 10 o'clock and pull it towards the front of the car until two sets of cam lobes are pointing straight up. Adjust those two sets (four lobes, 2 intake and two exhaust) and then rotate it some more using the same technique.

Tom
 

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
Welcome aboard!

Are you doing the top or front end? Kind of confusing...

Sounds like you're working on two separate issues.

1) Crank bolt. If you can get the battery hooked back up, use the bump start method if you need to loosen it.

2) Cam rotation - assuming the timing belt is off. Use a strap wrench on the cam gear.

If the timing belt is still on, a 1/2" ratchet , a few extensions, and a socket on the crank bolt will allow you to rotate the whole motor and move the cams to access the shims. Having the plugs either loose or out makes it easy.

Steve
 

Ishodu

SHO Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2002
Messages
5,077
Reaction score
615
Location
Ontario Canada
Take a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 19mm socket and turn the crank bolt clockwise. Thats what I do works like a charm. How far apart is the car? If the starter is still in it you can do the starter bump method.
 

ggsho93

New Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Raymond, NH
Well, I know what a breaker bar is,the timing belt was changed last year right before I put it up because of a bad,leaky valve cover gasket that was dripping on my cats.So I am not changing out the belt,sorry about being inconsistent with what my issues are. Everything is off the top, the valve covers,and the intake.The pulleys are still on and have not been taken off at all. I am just trying to manipulate the lobes so that I can measure the clearance. I have all the tools, and alot of shims, so that is not an issue,just these cams thats all. I will try the 3rd reccomendation from projectsho89,I hope I can get it to move, do I need to take the serpentine off? Or just take the tire off and throw the wrench on it. I really appreciate all of you guys getting back to me so quickly, good to know that some people know what they are doing, because most mechanics around here,minus the Ford dealer,won't touch it because its too"complicated" unbelievable,what about some of the motors that are in the latest cars? Everyone doesn't drive a 72 nova for petes sake ! Thanks again guys,if there are any other questions or ideas,feel free to let me know.

George
 
Last edited:

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
Just take the RF wheel off. If you want a straight shot at the crank bolt, remove the fenderwell liner.

If you have a breaker bar, you don't need to remove any belts or plugs. The bar should give the average person more than enough leverage to turn the motor to reposition the cam lobes.

Steve
 

ggsho93

New Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Raymond, NH
:wave: Thank you very much, I will give it a shot today, and let you know how it went.
George
 

shojuan

New Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2002
Messages
7,222
Reaction score
1
Location
sunny San Juan Bautista,
I like to use a ratchet with a cheater pipe on the crank bolt. No problems rotating the motor even with the sparkplugs in place. I often use schedule 40 PVC pipe for the cheater pipe. Really cheap.
 

artsho

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2002
Messages
243
Reaction score
0
Location
New York
I llike to use a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the crank bolt. No problems rotating the motor even with the sparkplugs in place. My craftsman floor jack has a 2 piece handle...The upper half makes a great cheater pipe.
 
Back
Top