Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
First you have to try powering the pump manually to see if it runs or if it's dead.
If it runs, your relay is bad. If it doesn't, the pump is bad.
If it runs, your relay is bad. If it doesn't, the pump is bad.
P0411 SAI code
- Thread starter Zap
- Start date
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medgraphsho
Bill T.
And how do I power the pump manually?
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Disconnect the pump from the factory harness, use a couple pieces of wire to jump one pin on the pump connector to ground, and the other to the positive battery terminal. Polarity doesn't matter here since the pump will just turn in the opposite direction and blow out instead of suck in.
If the pump doesn't run or you get a lot of sparks when connecting power then it's fried.
If the pump doesn't run or you get a lot of sparks when connecting power then it's fried.
Zap
SHO Member
Okay, I'm messing around with this thing again - I have the battery removed but I must be missing something as the tray won't readily come out. At any rate, does anyone have pictures of the pump/bracket assembly? I can't seem to figure out where the SS relay is located from below, but I was going to see if I could locate it for testing. Can this be done with the pump in the car if one has small enough hands/arms?
Also, is the wiring connector directly below the pump for it? If so, I will try jumping it to determine if it is running and see if it is good. I took some air and blew into the inlet, but no debris came out.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Also, is the wiring connector directly below the pump for it? If so, I will try jumping it to determine if it is running and see if it is good. I took some air and blew into the inlet, but no debris came out.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Zap
SHO Member
Okay, well... this is interesting. The car has been on two separate runs, as well as being started a few times since I did some more troubleshooting.
The relay appears to be good, as I see battery voltage at the plug underneath the pump. It stays there for approximately two minutes from cold start, and drops to a much lower voltage afterward.
I inspected the lines, and they appear to be connected properly and I did not see any damage.
I haven't seen the SES light reappear yet, so maybe it is behaving now. Time will tell.
The relay appears to be good, as I see battery voltage at the plug underneath the pump. It stays there for approximately two minutes from cold start, and drops to a much lower voltage afterward.
I inspected the lines, and they appear to be connected properly and I did not see any damage.
I haven't seen the SES light reappear yet, so maybe it is behaving now. Time will tell.
Zap
SHO Member
Well, after numerous run cycles, it came back. I'm a bit at a loss, since the SS relay appeared to be switching just fine. Is it possible that the pump is weak?
stephen newberg
SHO Member
I have given up trying to defeat the 411 code after replacing all the bits one at a time and now just clear the code and ignore it, still having no idea what is causing it to set.
pax, smn
Zap
SHO Member
I can't ignore the light - unfortunately we have emissions testing here in WI. Plus I really would rather not have other codes show up lurking while the light is constantly on.
Has anyone done a tune in an emissions state? Does it pass without incident? What all is involved, costs and so on?
Has anyone done a tune in an emissions state? Does it pass without incident? What all is involved, costs and so on?
Zap
SHO Member
Okay, yet another follow up to this. Does anyone know what the OBD-II data should be for the oxygen sensors? I acquired an OBD-II adjustable gauge, and I was curious to check and see if the SAI is properly causing the data to change. I don't know the age of the sensors either - is it possible that a borderline sensor could be causing the code to trip?
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