Orange SHO going TURBO!

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Toolman

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LeddZepp8687 said:
Also who bent all the piping for the setup? Im going turbo on mine but I dont know where to get the pipes bent just right. Do you think eventually you could help me fab a good setup on mine?? Obviously $$$ would be involved.

The pipes in the pic are simply a straight section of 3" pipe and a 90 degree mandrel bend 3" pipe (that is a pretty big IC pipe for that turbo BTW). And if you are looking for hot pipes, look no further than the GB section, where you can find your y-pipe and uppipe for a VERY GOOD PRICE. The IC pipes you can find all day on the net, as many companies offer polished alum mandrel bends in any size you would need.
 

SHOWYA

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LeddZepp8687 said:
Bump for a great car. I've seen his car in his garage and its OHH so gorgeous.

All the cars in your household are sweet. How does you brother drive the S/C R32 with the cast?

Also who bent all the piping for the setup? Im going turbo on mine but I dont know where to get the pipes bent just right. Do you think eventually you could help me fab a good setup on mine?? Obviously $$$ would be involved.

He doesn't he has to be off of it for a while unless he wants surgery again and has to get studs in his ankle. I got the piping from ebay. I have several more pieces since it was a kit. Believe it or not it came all the way from Hong Kong.
I went with the seller because he had paypal most importantly. But the piping is longer (about 24-27 inches per piece) and thicker then the more common ones you see on ebay all the time (around 18inches per piece).

Toolman said:
The pipes in the pic are simply a straight section of 3" pipe and a 90 degree mandrel bend 3" pipe (that is a pretty big IC pipe for that turbo BTW). And if you are looking for hot pipes, look no further than the GB section, where you can find your y-pipe and uppipe for a VERY GOOD PRICE. The IC pipes you can find all day on the net, as many companies offer polished alum mandrel bends in any size you would need.

Its 2.5 inch tubing. Same as the outlet for the turbo.


That kit i got from ebay was around 130-160 shipped. came with the silicone hoses and regular clamps. I bought t-bolt clamps which i will be using for my setup.
 
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platoribs

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Ray, if you get a good price on the t-bolt clamps get some extra's (enough to do two cars intakes) and I'll cover your expenses.

And just so everyone know's my car has become the model SHOYA is using to assemble his engine bay. Well it's the initial model cause mine is essentially stock and his has been in and out of the bay so he looks at mine to see where stuff used to go. Then of course he has to shoe horn all that other go fast stuff in on top.

Man, I love living in the same region as SHOYA. Just knowing that SHO is driving around SHOCAGO makes me giddy and makes me want to go faster:naughty:

Damn ginormous signature.
 
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Sho Amo

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that car has been wrecked? i remember seeing your cardomain for it when it used to be green.
 

Brett

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Very nice! honestly i think F/I is all you need to have one of the nicest SHOs around. :thumb: I couldnt help but notice your headlights in the first pic, they're not bad by any means, but i think a new pair would make your frontend look alot better, espicially since everything else looks new :wave:
 

SHOWYA

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Toolman said:
Excellent, that will suit the car much better. I must be seeing things!

Its the shininess of the tubing making you see things!

You think i can get your calibration file? I want to start looking at all the parameters for the tweecer.

And a few q's for you.... Where did you run your oil line from to the turbo?
My intercooler is 2 inches apart from the condenser is it better if i lay it against it?
 

HotRodKid

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for the charge pipe across the engine bay ....assuming the charge pipe is 2.5"

-get a piece of 3" pipe
-get a pair of 2.5" to 3" silicone couplers
-get some spare hose (radiator or silicone coupler.. anything close to pipe size)
- drill 2 small holes in the 3" pipe, one top left, one bottom right (as installed on car
- cut 2 narrow sections of radiator hose, epxy to inside ends of 3", but dont block the holes .... these are just to gap the 3" away from the 2.5"
- assemble 3" pipe and couplers over 2.5" pipe, leaving drilled holes exposed
- slowly fill the space between the 2 pipes with pure argon
-when full, slide couplers towards each other to cover drilled holes, install clamps
and now your charge pipe wont suck up ANY heat in the straight section, because argon is a GREAT insulator ... its what they use in double pane windows
 

SHOWYA

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platoribs said:
Ray, if you get a good price on the t-bolt clamps get some extra's (enough to do two cars intakes) and I'll cover your expenses.

And just so everyone know's my car has become the model SHOYA is using to assemble his engine bay. Well it's the initial model cause mine is essentially stock and his has been in and out of the bay so he looks at mine to see where stuff used to go. Then of course he has to shoe horn all that other go fast stuff in on top.

Man, I love living in the same region as SHOYA. Just knowing that SHO is driving around SHOCAGO makes me giddy and makes me want to go faster:naughty:

Damn ginormous signature.


i bought around 30 of the t-bolt clamps. So i know i will have extra ones.


Sho Amo said:
that car has been wrecked? i remember seeing your cardomain for it when it used to be green.

I dented the hood that was it ... no wreck.

SolidState said:
did I read SC r32? as in the VW R32?

that would be one heck of a car...

yes you are correct. 320Hp on a completely stock engine. running 6lbs of boost.

HotRodKid said:
for the charge pipe across the engine bay ....assuming the charge pipe is 2.5"

-get a piece of 3" pipe
-get a pair of 2.5" to 3" silicone couplers
-get some spare hose (radiator or silicone coupler.. anything close to pipe size)
- drill 2 small holes in the 3" pipe, one top left, one bottom right (as installed on car
- cut 2 narrow sections of radiator hose, epxy to inside ends of 3", but dont block the holes .... these are just to gap the 3" away from the 2.5"
- assemble 3" pipe and couplers over 2.5" pipe, leaving drilled holes exposed
- slowly fill the space between the 2 pipes with pure argon
-when full, slide couplers towards each other to cover drilled holes, install clamps
and now your charge pipe wont suck up ANY heat in the straight section, because argon is a GREAT insulator ... its what they use in double pane windows

Sounds like a good idea! That would make it look like im running lotsa boost!
 

TT SHO PROJECT

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ok now thats got to be the most inovative thing i have heard in a very very long time.. great thinking man! mad props!

-Turbo Bob.

HotRodKid said:
for the charge pipe across the engine bay ....assuming the charge pipe is 2.5"

-get a piece of 3" pipe
-get a pair of 2.5" to 3" silicone couplers
-get some spare hose (radiator or silicone coupler.. anything close to pipe size)
- drill 2 small holes in the 3" pipe, one top left, one bottom right (as installed on car
- cut 2 narrow sections of radiator hose, epxy to inside ends of 3", but dont block the holes .... these are just to gap the 3" away from the 2.5"
- assemble 3" pipe and couplers over 2.5" pipe, leaving drilled holes exposed
- slowly fill the space between the 2 pipes with pure argon
-when full, slide couplers towards each other to cover drilled holes, install clamps
and now your charge pipe wont suck up ANY heat in the straight section, because argon is a GREAT insulator ... its what they use in double pane windows
 

LeddZepp8687

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Toolman said:
The pipes in the pic are simply a straight section of 3" pipe and a 90 degree mandrel bend 3" pipe (that is a pretty big IC pipe for that turbo BTW). And if you are looking for hot pipes, look no further than the GB section, where you can find your y-pipe and uppipe for a VERY GOOD PRICE. The IC pipes you can find all day on the net, as many companies offer polished alum mandrel bends in any size you would need.

I'd love to buy the hotpiping from you man.

Butttt.........


Its an ATX. :(
 

somedude_001

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LeddZepp8687 said:
I'd love to buy the hotpiping from you man.

Butttt.........


Its an ATX. :(

oh hahaha. you can't turbo ATX car's its impossible and they tranny will never hold the power :evilgrin:
 

SHO Dude

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Yeah, someone said the same thing to me one time...

"You can't put a supercharger over there. It just won't work..."

Oh really....

Photo 050107 002

Photo 050107 003

Photo 050107 010
 

sho'd

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jeez, some of you guys have some really nice looking cars. keep up the good work. just amazing.
 

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