Oil pressure guage readings...

[DavidT]

Initial startup- 60 psi (or 40, can't remember)
Initial driving- 60 psi
Idle warm-14-15 psi
Idle warm rev to 2K- 40 psi

Are these readings average, poor, or good?
My 2 main concerns are rod bearings and oil passageways... so whats the verdict?
And oh yeah, The sending unit and bolt are just dangling there by the tubing, is this ok? And also, my idiot light did not come on, how come?(not that I'm complaining)

<small>[ December 02, 2002, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[Mike Kopstain]

You know those readings seem normal, but that definetly doesn't mean that your bearings aren't to blame. I was just sitting hear thinking and it seems that every SHO that has suffered from a major power loss for a long time, destroyed itself when it was finally fixed. I think this is because the engine does not deal with high load, low RPM driving. As most know, a clogged exhaust will produce these exact symptoms. Denny's problem was valve timing, which would produce a very similar enviroment. On top of that, unknowing of the problem, you drove the car like a SHO while it was broken, putting even more stress on it. Can you get us a sound clip of the noise?

<small>[ December 03, 2002, 02:32 AM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

dkautumna:
Initial startup- 60 psi (or 40, can't remember)
Initial driving- 60 psi
Idle warm-14-15 psi
Idle warm rev to 2K- 40 psi

Are these readings average, poor, or good?
My 2 main concerns are rod bearings and oil passageways... so whats the verdict?
And oh yeah, The sending unit and bolt are just dangling there by the tubing, is this ok? And also, my idiot light did not come on, how come?(not that I'm complaining)

Those seem like good numbers. The idiot light won't turn on when it's disconnected. The circuit remains open until the oil pressure drops to 4-6 psi then the circuit closes. This isn't very helpful to people who have had the wire to the sender fall off (me). Another reason gauges are so much better than idiot lights, it's usually obvious when the gauge isn't working. It's not always obvious that an idiot light isn't.

Rick

 

[projectSHO89]

Actually, the sender is a normally closed switch that opens when pressure in the oil passage reaches several PSI pressure. It is connected to the low side of the OIL warning lamp, causing the lamp to be on whenver the ignition is on and there is not enough oil pressure.

You can test the OIL light when you prepare to start the engine. Just turn the ignition to RUN and verify the light is on at this time. You can also manually ground the wire going to the sender switch (ignition in RUN) to verify the light is working. If the light doesn't pass its self-test, the light bulb, the sender, or the connection is bad.

Steve

 

[SLOSHO89]

dkautumna
Initial startup- 60 psi (or 40, can't remember)
Initial driving- 60 psi
Idle warm-14-15 psi
Idle warm rev to 2K- 40 psi

Those are good numbers.

Mine are like...
Initial startup- 60 psi
Idle warm-11-13 psi
When I sit in traffic or go through a bunch of stop signs it will drop to around 9psi @ idle.

Efren

 

[DavidT]

today it was 42 psi cruising in 5th.
It was as low as 11 psi in idle after a 15 mile trip.
It got as high as 70 psi when I started off (cold)
Mike, I will email you the clip. I have no way of hosting it.
So what are the danger psi levels to watch for... and when they reach those levels, what is happening internally?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Hey man, send it to [email protected]

Keep me updated. I am curious as to what the problem is and if you even want to get me on the phone to hear the sound I'm cool with that.