oil light flickering at 900 rpms?

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TYSHO

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I had a problem like this that kept getting worse until the whole vacumm hose broke off from the back of the intake. Make sure you do not have a small leak in the main vacumm line, it's the one pretty much dead center on the back of the intake. I hope it's this easy for you.
 

zblackbeast

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A vacuum leak would not cause low oil pressure unless it caused the car to idle at like 300 RPM IMHO... Also, i don't think taking the rod caps on and off and on and off again is very good for the studs.. I don't believe they are TTY, but they still will stretch over time if you keep retorquing them down.. I could be wrong here tho, ust my thoughts..

a W30 oil is what is reccomended for these cars so i don't believe the oil will be too thin unless you've put over 6k on the oil..

I agree with everyone else and park her untill you are 100% sure. If you do take off the rod caps again, i would consider installing oversized bearings.

ONE other thought. On Chris' SHO last spring after we did his bearings, one of the bolts worked its way loose on the pick up tube causing air to get into the system, not oil.. This could be a problem at lower RPM's.. that would be the FIRST thing i checked before tearing everything and anything apart!!
 

TYSHO

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A vacuum leak would not cause low oil pressure unless it caused the car to idle at like 300 RPM IMHO... Also, i don't think taking the rod caps on and off and on and off again is very good for the studs.. I don't believe they are TTY, but they still will stretch over time if you keep retorquing them down.. I could be wrong here tho, ust my thoughts..

The problem with loosening and tighting the rod cap nuts is that you wear down the bolt heads that lock the rod bolt in place to allow you to tighten and loosen the nut. This will cause them to free spin, requiring that you cut the nut off to replace the bolt and nut. It's not a fun job. :munch:

To help eliminate this problem, use an impact to remove the nuts quickly.
 
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