Oil around spark plugs!

[Shoboy3]

Well, I think I found my oil burning smell (or not). I pulled the middle front spark plug wire and got the light out. The car was on and inline but there was oil around the spark plugs almost up to the top. Anyone know why, and what will fix this?

Edit: the oil was past the part of the spark plug where you put the sockey on but not to the top (sorry for any confussion).

P.S. from 3/4 throttle on my car will hesitate/buck and when I stall it (most of the time) it will not restart unless I floor the gas pedal.

[This message has been edited by Shoboy3 (edited 02-06-2002).]

 

[sdpatt]

The oil in the spark plug wells is leaking past the rubber seals at the mating surfaces between the valve cover and the head. Each plug well has its own seal so there are a total of six of them. Oil around the spark plug can result in a misfire like you have described. You can first try to clean the oil out of the wells (see below) to see if this corrects your problem.

The real solution will be to remove the intake and valve covers and replace the seals. I suspect that the valve cover seals are also leaking oil. That's okay because the 2 valve cover and 6 plug well seals are all in the same Fel-Pro gasket set, the VS50378R, available for $71.99 from AutoZone.com (not available through the stores).

To clean out the oil from the plug wells, use a suction or vacuum pump of some sort (manual, electric) to suck the oil out. Also use some intake cleaner to flush the remaining oil and suck out this mixture also. You will need to spray the plugs to clean them off too (can be done with them still installed). Also clean out the plug wire boots of all the oil and use some dielectric grease inside the boots before reinstalling them.

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT remove the spark plugs with any oil still in the plug well. There can also be grit in the well that will drain into the cylinder if the plug is removed. This grit will cause major damage to the cylinder walls and rings.

The oil in the spark plug wells wil not get hot enough to smell burned. Remember, there are supposed to be spark plug boots over these wells to keep out moisture and dirt. The boot s wouldn't let many oil fumes out either. I suspect that you valve cover seals are allowing oil to drip down the sides of the engine onto the exhaust manifolds and/or catalytic converters. That would be a more probably cause for your hot oil smell.

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 02-06-2002).]

 

[Shoboy3]

First of all, thank you for the reply. I will talk with the mechanic who did my brakes and see if he would want to tackle the valve cover gaskets...probably not now after all the extra work needed to be done to replace the brakes but worth a shot. How long do you think an expierienced mechanic should take for this job? (I ask because he will do it under the table on Staurday and it would need to be finished in one day)!

Thanks!

 

[sdpatt]

I can remove and install the intake manifold and valve covers in about 2-3 hours, but I am quite experienced at it. I will mail a detailed procedure to your home address so that you may want to try it yourself. You should not let a mechanic learn how to do it on your car. Find someone who knows the Yamaha engine.

Depending on the age of the plug wires, they may need to be replaced also. They are usually good for about 100,000-120,000 miles or 5 years. Get replacement Motorcraft wires through FordPartsNetwork.com (lowest price).

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 02-06-2002).]

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 02-07-2002).]

 

[catfishphil]

I'll bet the burning oil smell is coming from your front main oil seal. It's a common seal to replace at the 60K service interval. The seal leaks oil onto a hot catalytic converter just below it; you'll smell it with the vent or heater on, and when you turn off the car. To confirm the seal leaks, idle the car 'til ihe engine is warm and inspect the area just behind the front pass. side wheel - you will see some smoke and smell the burning oil. When your water pump is leaking, the antifreeze runs over the main seal and onto the cat. as well... Good luck. PS I have to replace my O-rings, too. I plan to install'em with some Form-a-gasket to ensure extra leak-free life.

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-Catfishphil, stock '89 SHO

 

[GhostRider33763]

Scott,

If you don't mind could you email me a copy as well to [email protected].

Thanks

 

[Bigjoey71]

Could I also get a copy? If so, please send it to [email protected]
Thanks,
joe

 

[jthomas68]

How about for the "How To Section"?I need to do this in the spring also to put in my new valve covers.

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Jeremy Thomas
Juiced 91+
SHO Pic Of The Week:

 

[sdpatt]

I had mailed the file to Greg Raciti for inclusion into the How-To section. Let's give him a heads-up. Hey Greg. Are you listening? Now Jeremy has it too.

I will soon be writing a detailed procedure for the timing belt change, but there are distinct differences between the 3.0L and 3.2L engines so it will really be two separate procedures.

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 02-07-2002).]

 

[noSHO]

Originally posted by jthomas68:
How about for the "How To Section"?I need to do this in the spring also to put in my new valve covers.

It's REALLY easy for anyone who is semi-mechanically inclined. I tend to think you are pretty mechanically inclined. It's more or less self-explanatory, and you obviously already know how to take the intake off. Just be careful where you choose to pry off the valve covers, the preffered area to gently place a screw-driver is on the driver's side where the smaller valve cover bolts reside. A gentle pop should take care of most of it.


Scott- I'm sure you are well aware of several viable alternatives to the OEM Ford wires. I don't want to sound like I'm butting in here, but there are a few other OEM spec wires out now (one of which is actually $15 cheaper than Ford's wires). There are Accel wires that are custom made and retail at $70. I also run another wire, custom made for our car. They are verifiably EXACTLY to factory specs, I compared each one (boot length and wire length) to the factory wire as I installed them. I just wanted to let people know of other alternatives, the factory wires are still expensive even at the $84 price tag.



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-Dave
green/black 92