Noisy ALSFB?

[Joe_SHO]

I recently installed some ALSFB, and while it eliminated 99.9% of the clunks when turning, it created some popping noises when I go over bumps. My steering wheel is also ~5 degrees to the left when I'm going straight. I may have overtightened them if that would make a difference as far as noise. Thanks! -Joe

 

[jmpSHO]

I recently installed some ALSFB, and while it eliminated 99.9% of the clunks when turning, it created some popping noises when I go over bumps. My steering wheel is also ~5 degrees to the left when I'm going straight. I may have overtightened them if that would make a difference as far as noise. Thanks! -Joe

Anytime you drop the subframe you will usually need an alignment and I doubt it's the ASFBs that are causing the popping sounds. I doubt you over tightened them I usually tighten mine with an impact gun and I had to use thread locker to keep mine from coming lose.

 

[randy'sho]

popping over bumps sounds like struts to me!

 

[SHOspazz92]

popping over bumps sounds like struts to me!

Strut Mounts.

-Sam

 

[needaQuaife]

Strut mounts or bolt for Konis, if you have Konis...

 

[SHOtime2511]

Strut mounts or bolt for Konis, if you have Konis...

why would you say Koni's?
because that happend to one person?

 

[rubydist]

The popping noise could easily be from the strut mounts, but it can also be from loose alsfb. When I had alsfb on the 95 mtx, I had a terrible time keeping them tight, and at least once a month I had clunking up front which was eliminated (for a while) by torquing the subframe bolts.

 

[Joe_SHO]

I torqued them to impact wrench followed by breaker bar. How hard is a strut mount to replace?

 

[Eric VerValin]

The popping noise could easily be from the strut mounts, but it can also be from loose alsfb. When I had alsfb on the 95 mtx, I had a terrible time keeping them tight, and at least once a month I had clunking up front which was eliminated (for a while) by torquing the subframe bolts.

Torque them... ROFL! You can't follow that guide.... everytime I put em on, the 3/4 impact isn't even enough.... when I did my swap, this new body wasn't ready to let the subframe "settle" for a while. I use a 5 foot bar, on my 1/2" drive socket with an impact, and put a good 100-150lbs into that bar... So guestimating the actual torque to be more like 500-750#

Going into a drive way, or a speed bump listen for where it pops.. its usually only one side / corner that will wiggle loose first. When I first installed mine back in 2001 it took months of re tightening them until I realized just how tight they have to be. I swapped out my trans last weekend, and had to go out there with the bar yesterday to tighten the driver rear corner.



Another thing... if you don't leave the car on the ground when you tighten them, pick up the car with your jack under the subframe so your not fighting the weight of the motor /trans/ subframe when you tighten it.

 

[kikkinasphalt]

Torque them... ROFL! You can't follow that guide.... everytime I put em on, the 3/4 impact isn't even enough.... when I did my swap, this new body wasn't ready to let the subframe "settle" for a while. I use a 5 foot bar, on my 1/2" drive socket with an impact, and put a good 100-150lbs into that bar... So guestimating the actual torque to be more like 500-750#

Going into a drive way, or a speed bump listen for where it pops.. its usually only one side / corner that will wiggle loose first. When I first installed mine back in 2001 it took months of re tightening them until I realized just how tight they have to be. I swapped out my trans last weekend, and had to go out there with the bar yesterday to tighten the driver rear corner.



Another thing... if you don't leave the car on the ground when you tighten them, pick up the car with your jack under the subframe so your not fighting the weight of the motor /trans/ subframe when you tighten it.

this would be why you use a motor brace to hold the motor and trans up.