Noise up to 2,000 RPM (Part III)

[93SHO_2]

I have a hollow knocking noise in my 93 AT SHO that is loudest at about 1,500 RPM and stops at about 2,000 RPM. The noise is worst at 1,500 RPM at decleeration. The car runs great with no overheating. No codes. The noise sounds to be in the upper part of the engine passenger side.

Phase I - replaced the water punp (did not solve the noise probleme but cooling id working well)

Phase II - lovely Memorial Day weekend replacing the left (radiator) cam tensioner, popping the exhaust cam out and eyeballing the cam-gear-chain installation without an allignment tool[the 93 tensioner pad is orange while the 89 cam tensioner pad is black, the 93 orange tensioner pad seems to be held on by 2 screws and appears to be replacable, is this pad still available from Ford?

Noise still persists but I no longer have oil in my plug wells after the cover gasket kit (Felpro VS50378R $88.99 at O'Reilly) isntallation. [Ford wanted $379 for the same kit with plug well seals]

I also cleaned the EGR passagways and for the first time code 332 is gone!!! The car runs even better, I'm about to live with the noise and tell all the Honda drivers I have a "solid: cam.

I disassembled, cleaned and painted the intake manifold, about 8 hours, (there are a lot of parts in that manifold. I miss the Edlebrock 2120) maybe now those 19 year old girls with the belly button rings hanging arround the Hondas will flirt with me.

I checked all the valve clearances, theye were 33 and 20, someone must have done the 120 (I bought this one with 140K after the previous owner paid $500 for an alternator and $2,500 for a tran rebuild and lost patience with SHO's.)

Cruel design joke = the tiny screws on the EGR solenoid (and the Cam Position Sensor, and maybe the TPS) are 7/32 , not metric.

Phase III - replace the Cam Position Sensor next weekend unless alternate sage advice directs me elsewhere.

 

[Slo-Sho]

I would check your oil press hot immediately. Switch to 20w-50 if you must drive the car...but beware your bearings may be severely worn.

 

[CheckerSHO]

I would check your oil press hot immediately. Switch to 20w-50 if you must drive the car...but beware your bearings may be severely worn.

^what he said SHOs can be ******* rod bearings, and a lot of people replace them around 100k miles. If you catch it early, you can slap new bearings in it and probably be ok....otherwise, if its the rod bearings and you wait too long...they will look like this

R.I.P. my old motor :jpshakeh:

 

[93SHO_2]

Phase III complete, noise still present

Cam position sensor did not quiet things down. Oil pressure seems fine, I unscrew the oil filler cap while running and I see streams of oil shooting arround the top side of the head (left head at least).

The noise completely disappears at 2,000 RPM and the car runs fast and smooth, no noise over 2k, we sure it is the rod bearings?

This weekend I'll pull the cats and drop the pan for a look at the rod bearings.

 

[SHOman24v]

I would check your timing belt, after i did my cam swap i had my belt to tight so it was making noise, then i loosend it and had this horrible noise in the engine as if a bearing surface was bad, after 2000k rpms it went away and ran smooth. my friends said lets drive maybe it will go away... but it didnt. i came home tighted up the belt once again and the noise went away.....

 

[AutoSHO]

I would check your timing belt, after i did my cam swap i had my belt to tight so it was making noise, then i loosend it and had this horrible noise in the engine as if a bearing surface was bad, after 2000k rpms it went away and ran smooth. my friends said lets drive maybe it will go away... but it didnt. i came home tighted up the belt once again and the noise went away.....

The belt on an MTX should tension itself. Is your spring broken?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Just seeing oil moving around doesn't tell me that the oil pressure is adequate, just that there's some oil pressure. I'd recommend getting a manual gauge, connecting it where the stock pressure sender goes in the rear of the engine, and get an accurate hot idle reading.

Presuming your oil pressure is OK, your timing is OK, the valve shims are all in spec, and since you've already replaced the timing chain tensioner (did you replace the chain too BTW? maybe it stretched), I'd start wondering if you didn't have a broken valve spring somewhere.

FWIW, the screws that secure the CMP and DPFE sensors are indeed metric, but are 5.5mm which is a size not too many people have on hand.

 

[SHOman24v]

The belt on an MTX should tension itself. Is your spring broken?

No, the belt on and MTX does not tension its self, its a mechanical tensioner duh. If you have ever done a timing belt you would know that you use a allen to adjust the tension then once the desired tension is found you lock it in by tightening the bolt down

Only the ATX has a automatic tensioner

 

[sideSHO]

Is it a knock or a tap?
I hope it's a tapping noise.Have you checked your heat shields on the cats to see if their loose?
They'll make a nasty noise at different RPM when loose.
Hope this is the case.

 

[masho95]

Cruel design joke = the tiny screws on the EGR solenoid (and the Cam Position Sensor, and maybe the TPS) are 7/32 , not metric.

I'm not sure about the EGR solenoid, but the CMP sensor is metric, 5.5mm and the TPS takes a phillips head screwdriver to extract the 2 screws, I don't recall a sockets being able to fit the TPS screws.

 

[93SHO_2]

Phase 3.5 = while waiting for the oil pan gasket and rod bearings to arrive I adjusted the ecentric pulley on the automatic timing belt tensioner about 20 degrees. The noise volume is reduced to half. Maybe my auto tensioning part is worn out?

5.5 metric socket? Wow that is user friendly.