i'm in a bad way with my SHO. after all of the the ice and snow we got here in SEMO i ended getting plowed in. i dug out but still was spinning pretty good. after my second attempt (several hours apart) at getting out with a handful of high revs my car shut off and would not restart. at first i thought i did something to the battery. it acted dogged down when i would try to start like a dead battery. it was only 6 months old but i swapped it out for a new one. still slow cranking and acts dogged down. my brother in law thinks it has jumped time. i'm not sure. i think the CPS was going out before this as sometimes it wouldn't start first try and every once in awhile it would die as i pulled up to a stop. it would always start right back up. it needs a front 60k which is what it looks like i'm going to do but i'm also worried about bearings. only thing is there was no squalling that i have experienced in other cars with bearings. so i don't know. i guess i'm just asking for some thoughts on what you guys think it could be. could the CPS casue the slow cranking, or could it be the timing or a combo of the two? TIA.
No start, Slow cranking with new battery.
- Thread starter cetroutt
- Start date
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projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
The CPS has nothing to do with cranking speed.
Usually it's due to poor battery charge, bad cables, bad starter, or an an excessive mechanical load on the crankshaft due to either an overloaded/seized accessory or engine internal problem.
Verify battery is properly charged.
Monitor battery voltage while cranking checking for excessive voltage sag.
Check voltage at starter while cranking to check positive battery cable and relay (depending on year).
Check for voltage drop between battery negative post and engine block while cranking.
Check for starter current draw (auto parts can check this on a carry-in basis).
Remove serpentine or accessory belts and see if the cranking speed improves. If so, manually check each pulley and accessory to see if one (or more) does not rotate smoothly and freely.
Steve
Usually it's due to poor battery charge, bad cables, bad starter, or an an excessive mechanical load on the crankshaft due to either an overloaded/seized accessory or engine internal problem.
Verify battery is properly charged.
Monitor battery voltage while cranking checking for excessive voltage sag.
Check voltage at starter while cranking to check positive battery cable and relay (depending on year).
Check for voltage drop between battery negative post and engine block while cranking.
Check for starter current draw (auto parts can check this on a carry-in basis).
Remove serpentine or accessory belts and see if the cranking speed improves. If so, manually check each pulley and accessory to see if one (or more) does not rotate smoothly and freely.
Steve
SolidState
No Mo SHO
also, depending on how you used the clutch, if some of the fingers on the pressure plate are broken, the clutch can be half engaged all the time. This will put excessive load on the starter. I know when I got stuck last year a couple times in my SHO, I abused the clutch pretty badly out of desperation.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Trout - did you figure out what it is/was ?
One quick way to check if it is something in the charging/starting system dragging it down, is to check the cables after a start attempt. One or both wires will be warm-to-hot to the touch if corrosion, bad connections, bad ground, or a grounded-out starter is the issue.
If you need parts, let me know as there is a green 93 ATX at Pick-n-Pull . . . .
One quick way to check if it is something in the charging/starting system dragging it down, is to check the cables after a start attempt. One or both wires will be warm-to-hot to the touch if corrosion, bad connections, bad ground, or a grounded-out starter is the issue.
If you need parts, let me know as there is a green 93 ATX at Pick-n-Pull . . . .
no i haven't figured it out yet. i will go out and check my cables after i try to start it. my concern is bearings. if i spun one would it put the kind of drag that i have described on the engine. non SHO ford guys around here seem to think it should still start if it's bearings just run like crap and make an awful racket.
what pick and pull is the ATX at? i wish it was a MTX i'm needing an alt belt tensioner. mine has a rounded of nut.
what pick and pull is the ATX at? i wish it was a MTX i'm needing an alt belt tensioner. mine has a rounded of nut.
tried to start and crank for 30 seconds or so. my neg cable gets to hot to touch. but still with the ease of starting brfore this happened i would think that it would still start. i dunno. i think i'm gonna start tearing it apart tomorrow. that way when i get the parts i can just put it back together. i'm also going to try to start it with no belts and see where that gets me.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
You shouldn't crank the engine that long when using the cable-temp method for checking resistance.
I'm not sure if you started on it yet, but start by cleaning the negative battery post, battery post cable connector, and checking the grounds for corrosion between the cable and sheetmetal.
I'm not sure if you started on it yet, but start by cleaning the negative battery post, battery post cable connector, and checking the grounds for corrosion between the cable and sheetmetal.
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