No start... code is 111... what now?

[alphaseinor]

I parked my SHO after the battery light popped on intermittantly and under heavy acceleration, it was running when it was parked. The culprit (I think) was the water pump, which the pully can be turned by hand.

I am wondering if the CPS sensor went out mysteriously over the last two weeks... I haven't noticed any antifreze leaking out of the water pump. It would be nice to know if this is the problem sine I will need to dig in anyways.

The engine cranks, but doesn't ignite. I had one sputter, then nothing.

 

[alphaseinor]

The RPM gauge does go up to about 200 - 300 RPM when cranking, but it just holds the rpm, it is quite smooth.

From what I have noticed in all of my other cars, it will go up and down when there is an explosion in the cylinder, but here I am assuming I don't have any explosions. cry

 

[alphaseinor]

Since no-one is responding, I may just sell the f*c*er.

damnit... does anyone suspect the Crank sensor?

My plug wells are filled with oil. Where in **** can I find the gaskets. Please, someone list all gaskets needed to complete this.

I don't want to check for spark.

does unplugging the DIS and re-plugging it back in make the engine do this?

This seems to be a unique thing that is happening to me. I would like just some sort of responce. even if it's an offer to buy my '94.

 

[projectSHO89]

Three bucks. You pay shipping.

 

[LI_SHO]

projectSHO89:
Three bucks. You pay shipping.

...

now thats not cool at all

If your waterpump is bad, there is a good chance your CPS may be faulty. Half the things youve said lead me to suspect it may be that sensor. You may as well do the timing belt while youre in that area (and/or do the front end 60k) and the job doesnt realistically take more than 3-4 hours. good luck!

 

[LaTechSHO]

alphaseinor:
My plug wells are filled with oil. Where in **** can I find the gaskets. Please, someone list all gaskets needed to complete this.

I don't want to check for spark.

you can get the gaskets at the ford dealership or an auto parts store...

and as for not wanting to check for spark.... why not?

the two things you SHOULD be checking is whether or not you have spark and/or fuel

without knowing, you cannot possibly expect us to diagnose your car..... can you?

Louis

 

[91 Plus]

Possible Timing belt maybe?

 

[alphaseinor]

I was assumng the oil would pose a problem.

I have good fuel pressure, but it is injecting intermittantly. I have intermittant spark. I (finally) found a set of gaskets from the Phil Long Ford dealer in the 'Springs. They want $400 + Tax for the complete upper gasket set. (good price???)

I found some documentation on the car , the previous owner left some stuff in the trunk, so I hunted the guy down. He has all of the documentation from 2500 miles (Academy Ford, then Phill Long when Academy decided to "officially" become Phill Long) the 60k done at 65k, now I have a bad water pump at 108k... is this right? I think I'll check the shims while I'm in there.

I removed the timing cover, to my horror oh_my , the front cam is off by one tooth.

BTW the water pump is now leaking like a siv(sp??).

Since Phil Long is the dealer that messed this up, sould I patronize them with a nice $400 purchase?

 

[masho95]

alphaseinor:
I have good fuel pressure, but it is injecting intermittantly. I have intermittant spark. I (finally) found a set of gaskets from the Phil Long Ford dealer in the 'Springs. They want $400 + Tax for the complete upper gasket set. (good price???)
I removed the timing cover, to my horror oh_my , the front cam is off by one tooth.

How do you know that you have intermittant fuel and spark? Anyways the gasket set needed for the valve covers only costs $80 from Autozone. And how is the front cam off by one tooth? Did you reference the mark on the sprocket with the rear one?

 

[alphaseinor]

"How do you know that you have intermittant fuel and spark?"

checked spark by placing the wire (close) to a ground. nothing... I used a new motorcraft plug gapped it... sparked only 1x in 20 seconds of cranking. second time it sparked 3-4 times in 20 seconds of cranking.

<start redneck shadetree>There is no fuel (or smells of fuel) coming from the front bank of the engine when the 'y' pipe is removed (yes I know about the 02 sensors... I have two of them that are stuck lean, I plugged them in). The rear bank (don't try this at home) while my wife was cranking, I was underneith, she cranked for about a minute before I could stop her. I had one puff of gasoline smell, and then it started to become more residual.<end redneck shadetree>

"Anyways the gasket set needed for the valve covers only costs $80 from Autozone."

Autozone, Advanced, Checker, NAPA, none of them have either the 1991 3.0, 1994 3.2, or the 1994, 3.0 gaskets. They can't even order them.

"And how is the front cam off by one tooth? Did you reference the mark on the sprocket with the rear one?"

(do I really need to explain further) There are timing marks on the belt, on the sprokets, and on the sheetmetal. When the timing marks are lined up on all three of the above, it should be timed right.

On my timing belt, when the rear sproket "dot" is aligned with the belt "rear line" and the appropriate sheetmetal "line", the front sproket "dot" is one tooth towards the rear of the engine when referenced to the "front line" on the belt; the "front line" on the belt is perfectly alligned with the appropriate "line" on the sheetmetal.

The belt looks almost completely new, especially for being on there for 40,000 miles. There is quite a bit of tension on the belt, so I am only assuming it hasn't slipped.

also, the reason why the guy abandoned his car is because of the brakes, which were replaced less than 500 miles ago, by Phil Long Ford. All four rotors are now warped. (not that that's phil long's fault). He also complained starting from 5,000 miles that the transmission was "double shifting" under hard acceleration; it now has about 108,000 miles and still double shifts. Academy Ford could never duplicate the probem (BS). (I have all documentation).

(sorry for the flood)

 

[masho95]

alphaseinor:
There is no fuel (or smells of fuel) coming from the front bank of the engine when the 'y' pipe is removed

"Anyways the gasket set needed for the valve covers only costs $80 from Autozone."

(do I really need to explain further) There are timing marks on the belt, on the sprokets, and on the sheetmetal. When the timing marks are lined up on all three of the above, it should be timed right.

On my timing belt, when the rear sproket "dot" is aligned with the belt "rear line" and the appropriate sheetmetal "line", the front sproket "dot" is one tooth towards the rear of the engine when referenced to the "front line" on the belt; the "front line" on the belt is perfectly alligned with the appropriate "line" on the sheetmetal.

Ok first, check for fuel pressure at the schreader valve on the fuel rail. That's the only way to "really" test for fuel getting to the car.
Second Autozone can order the Fel-pro set for you, ask for part# VS50378R. If they won't order them you can get them online at www.autozone.com for $71.99
And third, you car isn't out of time. You described the car exactly as it should be aligned. Once the car has been cranked with a new belt on, the marks on the belt will never line up again with the cam sprockets and the rear timing belt cover. You just need to check the cam sprockets vs. the rear timing belt cover to make sure that the car is timed correctly, as well as the mark on the crank to the oil pump housing. You said that the marks on the cam sprockets are aligned with the marks on the rear timing belt cover so assuming the lower mark on the crank is aligned with the oil pump housing then the car is correctly timed and you don't have to worry about that issue.

 

[alphaseinor]

I checked the fuel rail before checking to see if it was injecting, it's getting good pressure.

Thanks for filling me in on the timing belt issue, I have had a performance problem with this car since I bought it, I was just hoping this was the problem (timing).

I will replace the CPS (crank) over the weekend when I get some time off...

BTW... performance issue #1. 0-60 is about 12 seconds, where my 3.1 Liter Grand Prix SE can do it in about 10 seconds. the intake is (surprisingly) clean, and it doesn't throw any codes. I am starting to think it is the ATX going out more than an engine problem (I already have a reman + JR Shift kit ATX for it... when it does finally go out).

Thanks

 

[FOSHO94]

projectSHO89:
Three bucks. You pay shipping.

yea, how cool is that, seriously this forum is the worst ever sometimes

 

[projectSHO89]

FOSHO94:

projectSHO89:
Three bucks. You pay shipping.

yea, how cool is that, seriously this forum is the worst ever sometimes

Read the original third post by the thread starter. All he wanted to do was be impatient that no one had responded, he didn't want to do diagnostics, he wanted to sell the fu*k*r, whine, whine, whine, etc.

What a way to request assistance from those with lives other than hanging out here. He asked for an offer, he got one. If you failed to see the irony or humor in it, oh well..

 

[Slo-Sho]

alphaseinor:
Since no-one is responding, I may just sell the f*c*er.
damnit... does anyone suspect the Crank sensor?
I don't want to check for spark.
This seems to be a unique thing that is happening to me. I would like just some sort of responce. even if it's an offer to buy my '94.

To those who have offered help to this fella, I commend you for having the patience to do so. For me, I would've told him to part the f*c*er.

 

[snake396]

CPS? the way i understand it is that if the tach works, then so does the CPS. isn't that where the signal originates from?

 

[projectSHO89]

The TACH signal requires the CPS, CID, and all three of the COIL signals to be properly generated. All of these signals go to the DIS which provides the signal IDM (TACH).

Steve