No Start and No KOEO Diagnostic

[BETTY DAVIS]

My car will not start. She crancks but does not catch. The CEL light stays on but is very dim. The standard noise from the fule pump is not heard; advance/ prime high pitch and loud gurgle/ rumble in the tank. The KOEO test did not function on several attempts so no codes are available; CEL light was very dim during each try. Prior to the test, the procedure for clearing all faults and codes was performed; disconnect the negative battery lead and depress the brake peddel for 5 mins.

The O2 sensors have been replaced with the last three months. The bottom 60K was performed over eight months ago which included the Crank Position Sensor.

Any assistance with getting BETTY back on the road
will be greatly appreciated.


BETTY DAVIS

 

[masho95]

Ok was there any service performed on the car before this started happening or just you just try to start it one morning and it wouldn't start? You should check the voltage of the battery to make sure it's up over 12V especially sine the CE was very dim. If you aren't getting KOEO codes then it's indicating a PCM problem wheter the voltage isn't high enough for it or a bad ground or something. Check the battery cable connections and the grounds around the battery.. You also might want to check out ProjectSHO89's fuel pump troubleshooting guide. Fuel pump troubleshooting guide

 

[projectSHO89]

Is your reference to the CEL being dim to it while you are cranking or while the ignition is just turned to RUN?

A dim CEL is usually a sign of a bad connection of the ground line that runs from the battery to the PCM or a bad (high resistance elsewhere in either the power of ground circuits that supply the PCM.

Measure across any connection that should be a direct connection while the circuit is under load. Any voltage reading across what shoulf be a direct connection indicates a high resistance that is your problem.

Steve

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

The car sat in a parking lot from Friday morning to late Sunday night. The service that transpired a few months ago was for the replacement of both O2 sensors. The CEL is visably dim at both stages; ignition in run position and while crancking. However, in reference to the PCM, the main harness was removed and reassembled to review the integrity of the pin out. This area will be revisited.


BETTY

 

[projectSHO89]

Double check that single ground wire that runs from the negative battery post to the strut tower, then on to the PCM.

It has been known in the past to cause your exact symptom.

Steve

 

[sdpatt]

The normal procedural method (when the CE light again flashes out the codes) to clear the EEC memory codes is to install the jumper, turn the ignition key to ON, wait for the codes to start flashing, then remove the jumper as the codes are being displayed. This also eliminates the resets of clock, stereo and other settings from the battery disconnect.

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

Betty drives again, the 10 Amp Ignition Coil fuse was blown. It is attached to the upper corner of the firewall on the drivers side. A new 15 Amp fuse was installed. Once again, thanks guys this is an excellent board.


BETTY DAVIS

 

[RStalveyARFF]

make sure you install the correct amperage fuse.

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

What possible effects or issues may arise by going to a 15 Amp fuse ?

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

Going Through 15 Amp Fuses Like Candy

After 2 mths the first 15 Amp fuse(#1) blew last Tuesday. I had driven for 20 minutes then parked and turned off the ignition. Two minutes later the car would not start. Changed out the fuse (#2) with another 15 Amp and she started. Monday night the same incident repeated but this time it took two fuses (#3, #4) to get going. The first one got fried during while trying to start. Today, this morning the engine died while idling after driving for 45 mins. Tonight, I will put in a 10 Amp fuse (#5).

I will be running the codes on Thursday but help is needed to find out where the short is or why the current draw is very high.


BETTY DAVIS
(Next Dental Appoitment coming up soon.)

 

[projectSHO89]

Bad coolant level sensor in the overflow tank. Unplug it.

Steve

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

Sensor - Coolant

Thanks Steve,

Will do. But what does the Sensor-Coolant have to do with the 10 Amp Ignition fuse ?


BETTY DAVIS

 

[projectSHO89]

Some ***** designed the circuit so that the power for the sensor is fed off the same fuse as is the ignition coil.

When the sensor shorts, it blows the fuse and the car is dead.

All 92 to 92 SHOs have this feature. The 89 does not. I have not checked the schematic for the 90 or 91.

Steve

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

Sensor - Coolant disconnected but engine still wants to cut out !

Last night I disconnected the sensor - coolant and so far the 10 Amp fuse has not blowen. However, after a good 40 min drive the ignition intermitently trys to cuts out (engine stumbles then catches itself) during a stationary idle. Any thoughts. I will be running the codes tomorrow. On a side note, I change my Sensor - Throttle Position (TPS) a week and a half ago.



BETTY DAVIS
(Looking for the new Varmits)

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

Two and a Half weeks

After 2.5 weeks the 10 Amp fuse let go on Saturday. It is important to note that during this period, neither the radio or the climate control unit was functioning at the same time; minimize current draw.



BETTY DAVIS

 

[BETTY DAVIS]

Koeo Codes - 157, 211, 219, 542, 565, 572

Finally ran the codes and illustrated above are the numbers which were thrown during the diagnostic test. Presently, she will not start, crancks but does not catch. The CE light illumination is bright and the 10 amp fuse is not blown.

What are you thoughts ?


BETTY DAVIS