No Start after auto to manual computer conversion. Help!

[1937 SHO]

Help! I am at my wits end. I had my 1937 Ford running (finally) with a 93 3.2L married to an A4LD. Once I got the bugs out it started every time I turned the key. I did get error codes for the transmission because the A4LD is not computer controlled and the computer is looking for all the solenoids and sensors. I checked this site and it seems most people use the computer from a manual car, so I switched mine out. I prefer it, since it will make it easier to get around not having an EGR setup.

After the computer conversion, it ran for 2-3 minutes and then stopped, and won’t start for the life of me. It will crank all day and fire a plug occasionally. Since I only had it running a couple of weeks before the computer conversion and had only run it a total 30-45 minutes, I don’t know if it is related to the swap or not. I changed the pin out on the wiring harness to what the manual computer requires. I have the factory wiring diagrams and the electrical trouble shooting manual as well as the factory emissions trouble shooting manual. I am 99.9% certain it is all correct (it did run). I used a Telvorek wiring kit for a Mustang and made a few modifications to it for the SHO. I have a grounding system thought out the car as it is fiberglass. The engine and the DIS are connected directly to the ground system. I added the barometric sensor for the manual computer as the automatic does not have it. It ran with not octane switch or clutch switch, but I added the octane switch and jumpered the clutch circuit with no success. I have tested the wiring for shorts to power and ground and it is all o.k.

The only KOEO error codes are for the electric fan and power steering switch. I have a new crank sensor which I have tested and it appears o.k. The cam sensor is new. I have several DIS modules and tried them all. I even dropped $200+ for a brand new one with no positive results. I have also tried a second manual computer and no change. There is spark on every cylinder. Fuel pressure is 39 PSI while cranking and I checked the fuel filter. I replaced the idle air control valve. The throttle position sensor is adjusted to .97 volts. Every test in the emissions manual I have done, the car passes except the barometric pressure sensor. I am not sure on this as I don’t have the factory tester, but the voltage on my digital meter reads it as slightly high for sea level (I am in San Francisco). I also tried disconnecting the baro sensor and no difference.

I pulled the timing cover today (not easy on a rear wheel drive) and it is all correct. Almost everything is new on the car. The engine was rebuilt; all wiring, connectors and sensors are new except MAF and TPS.

Is there anything related to a 3.2L upgrade to a manual trans car I should be looking at?

Very frustrating. I was ready to go to the body shop until this happened. I love this engine……til now!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

What engine harness are you using (what year and transmission), and what (if anything) have you done to it for the change to a different PCM? What is the catch code of the PCM you're now using?

 

[Phoenix]

I am running a D4U1 auto ECU , with a 3.2 with it's harness in a manual car. The only thing you need is to bypass the clutch switch and the neutral switch (Auto cars only starts in P or N)

The harnesses (CCRM or ECU ones) must also not be swapped from a MTX to ATX , each harness must follow its corresponding ECU or CCRM.

Do you have fuel at the rails?

 

[itwonder]

A basic check or two:
1. Put a timing light on plug wire #1 and crank it. Verify spark near where TDC mark on crank pulley meets 0 degree mark on timing cover each revolution. Do same for cylinder #5 since it's spark is paired with #1. That should tell you if you are getting reliable properly timed spark
2. If #1 looks good, hit the intake with a squirt of starting fluid; just enough to see whether it will fire. That should tell you if it is not getting fuel.

I am attaching a DIS test procedure that may help you trace the problem. Remember, it should spark without the CID signal, but will not spark without CPS signal. The CID signal is high for 180 degrees then low for 180 degrees. The CPS should pulse 3 times per crank revolution. The ignition system should function in failure mode even if the SPOUT signal from the EEC is absent. I would start by checking each pin at the DIS for the expected signal while cranking.

 

[thecrew2999]

i would say run 3.0 wiring harness and x2j dont switch them... also like was said dont switch the ccrm boxes... make sure they all go with each other... swapping them will olny short stuff out

 

[1937 SHO]

Thanks for the tips. I will try the suggestions today and see what happens. This is a show car and the wiring harness is not stock, but remember, it did run. The harness is made by a company that does conversion harnesses for Mustangs and Thunderbird SC's. The automatic PCM was a D4U1, now i am using an X2J. The A4LD transmission has a neutral safety switch built in so I am using that. I am not using a CCRM. Since I only need the fuel pump relay I used a mustang setup which works fine (or at lest it did) The fan is controled by a seperate sensor/relay setup commonly used on street rods.

Thanks to all that answered,

Tod

 

[Phoenix]

Let us know what was the issue , or if you need further assistance

 

[1937 SHO]

I'm still looking. Could my custom made Magnecor wires be the problems? I moved the coil pack and need different length wires.

 

[Phoenix]

I'm still looking. Could my custom made Magnecor wires be the problems? I moved the coil pack and need different length wires.

I doupt it , but a misplaced wire can. Alot of people make this error - look at the correct spark order:

 

[1937 SHO]

Wiring is correct. I have no consistent spark at the plugs, but when I test the DIS. coil and sensor all check out o.k. All are new also.