Newbie Question....what the.....?

[JERRYGSKI]

Quick story, I just bought a '95 ATX, yesterday. I got what I think/thought was a deal. 150,000 miles, has been sitting from about 3-4 months, the previous owner had a reapir shop chasing a problem. He described it as "it shuts off once in a while when you come to a stop". They replace numerous parts and said it was fixed. So anyway, I picked up the car yesterday. It had to be jumpstarted.....I should have known that was a bad sign. On the way home it was bucking a low RPM's and it stalled repeatedly. I tested the battery and replaced it as bad. For the bucking/missing at low RPMs, I replaced the plug wires. The old ones were the originals, no more bucking/missing. So I took it for a drive tonight to kind of blow it out, and after a $145 tow bill it is back in the parking lot. I have read quite a bit of info on this site and have most of the answers for tomorrow mornings' adgenda.
While driving prior to the tow truck meeting, the check engine light came on repeatedly, and the low oil light came on. I will tackle those diagnosis' tomorrow, but I have a more troubling symptom. I could not find this one on the forums anywhere, so hopefully I can find it here.
The "O/D Off" light began flashing while driving at 50 mph steady driving. When I came to a stop and took off again, the transmission was shifting very hard and erratically, the whole while the O/D light was flashing.
The reason that I had the car towed home is that I beleive that the fuel pump failed. But like I said I will be testing all of that tomorrow...............
Any info on this will will be greatly appreciated. I am trying to determine whether or not to keep the car, and if it will be worth the trouble.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[Sh03d]

I've read somewhere that when the the O/D light is flashing it is a bad sign, the tranny might be going. Check the fluid and check the codes. Do little more research on the forum. You might be looking into a new tranny.

But I might be wrong.

 

[Rockledge]

Welcome to the SHO game. It's a good thing that you are willing to roll up your sleeves and go to work, 'cause that's a part of the game.

First thing you really have to do, which you seem to understand, is to pull the codes:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

Another thing I recommend is getting a Triple A Premier Membership plan, for the $145 you coughed up for the tow you could have paid for an entire year and had around $50 left over.

Don't condemn the tranny just yet, it might be something like a bad VSS, for example.

In any case, check for codes and report back.

 

[JERRYGSKI]

Thenx for the replies so far....I will be pulling the codes this morning and with those results, I will be making a few decisions.
I appreciate the commeny about AAA, probably the best comment I have heard in a while.
This is the 2nd SHO I've had, so I am not going into this blindly. I had an 89 MTX about 2 years ago and just loved it. I have a some mechanical knowledge, and a lot of common sense, so we'll see what happens with this one.
I'll be back in a while with the codes......

 

[JERRYGSKI]

OK, Heres the codes that I got;
172 - O2 sensor
215 - Primary Circuit failure Coil 1
216 - Primary Circuit failure Coil 2
321 - No Idea
332 - Egr Not Responding
542 - Fuel Pump Open Circuit/Bad Ground ...
628 - Excessive Converter Slippage
659 - No Idea

When I stared the code reading process, the light gave me the 542 code then ran through a long number, not 3 digits, I checked it 3 times and it gave the same thing, 1-1-7-2-2-1-5-2-1-6-. I am clueless. Any ideas?

Now I can deal with most of the codes, but the 628 Converter code has me worried. Should I be? I have not checked the fluid level as I cannot start the car to let it warm up because of the fuel pump.
Should I bother putting a fuel pump in it and going from there, or should I ****can the whole idea and return it to where I got it?
Thanks again in advance.

 

[rangerj]

What is the maintenance history of the car? Is everything original? What parts were recently replaced?

You replaced the plug wires, but did you look for oil in the plug wells? The misfire of the plugs could cause the engine to run rich and set off the O-2 sensor code. If there is oil in the plug wells it will not take long to ruin your new plug wires.

First try unplugging and plugging back in all of the connections in the engine compartment. Check for corrosion and any other problems with the connections. Dissconnect and clean all of the main cable connections, positive and ground, ie the ones from the battery. Check the cables for corrosion. Look at the cables carefully for any signs of corrosion inside the cable insulation, such as swelling or white or light green powder, or splitting of the insulation. Clear the codes and recheck them after you have established good connections. Then get back to us and we can address the codes one at a time.

 

[DHMag]

before chasing those codes, id reset the EEC and pull codes again.

 

[JERRYGSKI]

I know very little about the maintenance history. No records are in the car.
I did look for oil in the wells, there was none. None on the old wire tips either.
During the code test, I know that the computer checks the cooling fan and fuel pump. I heard the fans come on, but no fuel pump. I disconnected the battery for quite a while and just connected it and tried it again, still no fuel pump. Is there a way to "hot wire" it from under the hood to see if it is working? Or does the 542 code indicate a bad pump. I just dont want to put in a new pump, only to condem the car for all of the other reasons.
Thanks again, I truly appreciate the input.

 

[SuperHO]

it's a pretty safe bet that if you ain't hearing a fuel pump, it ain't working. If you replace it, for the love of Pete don't use one from Auto Zone or Advanced. I'm really good friends with the guys at Advanced here in my town, and NONE of them use their own fuel pumps. Get a Walbro off one of the many sponsers (I got mine from Ford Performance Specialists for quite reasonable). You'll thank yourself in the end on that one. I feel your pain...I've had a fuel pump leave me stranded more than once. I hope you have less than 1/4 a tank, otherwise have fun....

 

[Rockledge]

You can ground the Fuel Pump Pin on the EEC Test Connector (key on) to run the pump manually:

Also, Steve (projectSHO89) put together some FP diagnostics you might want to look over:

http://www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=7

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Your intertia relay might be going out or be bad. I had the same code when mine went.

Also you may need a new DIS modual as when that does it will casue all kind of problems and throw coil codes.

 

[JERRYGSKI]

Well, I am no longer a SHO owner. It is going back to where it came from. I just can't take the time that it needs, or the money. Oh well, the quest continues.....
Thanks to all of you that tried to help and did help for that matter. I will be back with another one soon!!
Jerry

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

I honestly was hoping you would make the more responsible financial decision in taking it back. I wish I was as intelligent as you are in my car decisions :hpoop:

 

[Rockledge]

Well, I am no longer a SHO owner. It is going back to where it came from. I just can't take the time that it needs, or the money. Oh well, the quest continues.....
Thanks to all of you that tried to help and did help for that matter. I will be back with another one soon!!
Jerry

Probably a good call, at least from where I sit.

Don't worry, there is bound to be a SHO out there with your name on it.

 

[TicoSHO]

I know very little about the maintenance history. No records are in the car.
I did look for oil in the wells, there was none. None on the old wire tips either.
During the code test, I know that the computer checks the cooling fan and fuel pump. I heard the fans come on, but no fuel pump. I disconnected the battery for quite a while and just connected it and tried it again, still no fuel pump. Is there a way to "hot wire" it from under the hood to see if it is working? Or does the 542 code indicate a bad pump. I just dont want to put in a new pump, only to condem the car for all of the other reasons.
Thanks again, I truly appreciate the input.

Also check your CCRM (black box attached to radiator) I thought I had a bad fuel pump but it was a bad switch. Only cost about $50 at a good used parts store.

 

[JERRYGSKI]

Oh there WILL be another SHO in my future. More than likely an MTX. For now though, I will just keep driving my '76 Gremlin. The guy that I got this SHO from will be selling it, probably for parts only. And when he deciedes to, I will let you all know. The motor ran strong, at least for a little while. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again!