new front component speakers don't work.

[91 shonice]

I just put in infinity components in the front but they cut out after about 5 min. Is this because I'm running the stock amp? Is the crossover no good? where do I start. It was A PITA to put in. I don't want to take it out again. Any help would be great.

 

[K-Dawg]

Screwed up your wiring somewhere. Its hard to diagnose audio problems over the internet.

 

[Toul]

If I had to guess, I would say that the components you put in present a different load to the amp. Say the stock speakers were like 6ohm speakers and your new comps are 4. The stock amp is not seeing the resistance it needs to see, and is trying to put out more power than it safely can, causing it to overheat and go into a protect mode.

Thats my guess. No other reason for speakers to reliably cut out after a specific amount of time. Nothing about the speaker should be changing.

To further diagnose the issue you are having we need to know exactly what model of speaker you put in, what other audio modifications you have done, and anything else you can think of that you did during the installation that you think could be relevant.


edit:

After re reading your post, you say they cut out after 5 minutes. Meaning, they cut off after 5 minutes each time you turn the stereo on? Or that they cut out after 5 minutes and havent worked since?

Shame on you for putting everything back together before making sure it worked!

 

[91 shonice]

speakers work for about 5 min or so. When I turn it off and on again they magiclly work for another few min.
So as for whats in the car is simple. HU pioneer ??7900
Rear 6x8 pioneer.
front Infinity ??? 6202 component.6.5"
stock amps and woofer

 

[sandrew]

IIRC, some of the newer Infinity components are 2ohm instead of the normal 4. If your amp or head unit isn't rated for operation at 2ohm it could be shutting itself off. (thermal protection circuit?)

 

[Lightning]

IIRC, some of the newer Infinity components are 2ohm instead of the normal 4. If your amp or head unit isn't rated for operation at 2ohm it could be shutting itself off. (thermal protection circuit?)

That's what it sounds like to me

 

[91 shonice]

They are 4 ohms but I'm at work and just checked to see if they are still working. Now I get no sound out on the one that was cutting out. I'll have to check tonite when I get home. Amp bad?

 

[SuperHO]

bypass your stock amp and see if that changes anything...

 

[sandrew]

I couldn't find a 6202 series, are you sure they aren't the 6020cs?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=1086020CS&tp=106

Those clearly state they are 2ohm.

/shrug

 

[91 shonice]

hey yeah thats it! The box says 4ohms so now what. How do you bypass the stock amp. New to this electronic stuff. thanks all

 

[SuperHO]

there's a harness available that allows you to bypass the stock amp. Unfortunatly, you lose the sub amp, too, but if you're running a stock sub, no great loss.

Now, some people will tell you the stock amp sounds fine being pushed by an aftermarket head unit. Others will tell you it sounds like poo. I've had experiences both ways. Hooked up to the JBL system, an aftermarket deck really sucked unless I bypassed the amps. However, with just the premium sound, it doesn't sound bad at all.

 

[Lightning]

I couldn't find a 6202 series, are you sure they aren't the 6020cs?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=1086020CS&tp=106

Those clearly state they are 2ohm.

/shrug

2 ohm each driver, * 2 drivers (tweet and mid) == 4 ohm

• True Four Ohms— All Reference speakers feature two ohm voice coils. Original factory-installed speaker wiring in many cars is 18-22 gauge. This wire, and heating in the voice coil when power is applied, increase the impedance “seen” by the amplifier or head unit. The impedance of Reference Speakers has been adjusted to compensate for this increase and can be safely driven by any head unit.

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...OS&ser=REF&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

IDK, sounds strange to me, infinity says both 2 Ohm and 4 Ohm, so who knows for sure

Regardless, this does sound like a impedance problem. As already stated, load is too low causing the amp to overheat and shutdown...



You will probably resolve this problem, and have better sound, by driving the speakers directly off the headunit rather than going through the factory amp...

 

[91 shonice]

So run the speakers right to the HU? I'm too tired to look at it tonite but I'll pull the panels again tomorrow. Would the wiring gauge make a difference? All I did was splice the stock wire to the cross over.

 

[Toul]

Wiring gauge is more or less irrelevant here.

It sounds exactly like a load issue. Those ARE 2ohm final load comps, and you ARE overdrawing on the stock amp sending it into thermal protect mode.

Unfortunately, its relatively likely that you wont be able to just bypass the stock amp and be fine either. There is a very good chance that your headunit is not going to be comfortable pushing a 2ohm load (it will be rated for 4ohm only I'm sure) and that it will do they same thing as your amp.

I suggest trying it anyway though. Bypass the amp, worst thing that could happen is you blow a fuse or something lame like that. If it turns out you still have issues because of the load, you have two choices.

Sell those comps and get some with a 4ohm final load.
Get an amp and run them off it.



I'd go with the second option. You can get a good (enough) amp to power all 4 speaker channels for less than a hundred bucks.


And when it comes to using the headunits internal amp vs the stock amp. They both put out similar power I'm sure. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 to 30 watts. Spend 80 bucks on an amp and you can more than double that.

 

[91 shonice]

will check for a cheap amp. But in the sho there are 2 amps which one do I take out? Is one running the Sub?

 

[Toul]

I unfortunatley cant really direct you on that portion of it, I've never had to mess with any of the cars stock amp stuff. If you do a search I'm sure you will find that this question has been adressed numerous times in the past however.

Before worrying about finding a cheap amp, which I can most definately help with, just get it bypassed first and see if your headunit is comfortable pushing it.

 

[only1me]

This may help

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=84087&highlight=fdk1b

 

[91 shonice]

So I opened a can of worm with these component speakers. First, Thanks all for helping out. So I bypassed the stock amp and found out the amp wasn't working on the right speaker. I went to walmart and got a sony explode amp for 90 bucks. 600 watts. not bad since I don't pound on my speakers but like my music.
Why didn't anyone say that its a job hooking up amps with new wires. had no idea that you had to hook it up to the battery too. So the system sound great but it was 2:30 in the morning so I really couldn't turn it up.
So as I hooked up the speakers I realized that there is no way to hook up tthe stock sub. So there lies the problem. Where do I go from here. Can I or should I get another amp just to hook up the stock sub? And to think, I never did car audio before.

 

[91 shonice]

So I get to work today and test out the speakers. Now the DS rear dosen't work and I checked out the wires and connections. All ok. Stumped!!! Can you blow a fuse and just have one work on the amp?

 

[Toul]

lol, talk about opening up a can of worms.

Should have come here before doing all of that.

K, so you bypassed the stock amp via using the other wiring harness already present right? Ok, so now your headunit was sending the power to the speakers right? And now you say the front right doesnt work? You're first step there would to be to double triple check your buttconnectors or whatever was used to connect the HU, after that you should have tested continuity across your components + and -.

After finding that it was probably just a bad connection somewhere in the mix, you would have been able to promptly fix it and enjoy your radio.

Yes, installing an aftermarket amp is a job in itself, you must run a thick enough gauge power and ground wire from your battery and to your frame. You wasted your money on the sony amp HARD. They are junk. Out of ten on a quality of amp scale they are a 2.5 out of 10.

After installing the amp and finding that you bought a 4 channel amp and you are trying to drive 5 speakers, you should.

Take the sony amp back to the store and ask for your money back, walmarts usually cool about returns.



K, now that you have returned the sony amp. When you bypassed the stock amp, how did you do it? By using the alternative plug behind the HU right?