New CPS and SHO no go

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Brian766

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The problem started about 6 weeks ago with my 94 AT 110,000 miles.She would run great until the temp. got hot then she would stumble,cutout and stall at low rpms.I could start it right up after it stalls but it still run lousy or hardly at all.The water pump went out,so I checked the forum for info and suspected the CPS was my stumbling problem.After changing the pump and CPS it cranks but doesn't start.PLEASE tell me I don't have to take it apart again!!!! Three thaughts of mine:1 is there a way to check the CPS? 2 cam position sensor? 3 DIS,I removed this sensor and when I installed it the lower 2 screws were stripped and I didn't use any adhiesive(do I need any?)it looked like it had some on it before. Please help and Thank You!
 

Mr Anonymous

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Are you seeing any codes? Did you re-install the timing belt properly when you replaced the CPS and water pump?
 

SHO--ripper

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Did the tach drop to 0 when the car stalled? Did you gap the CPS to .3mm? I would put di-electric grease on the back of the DIS, but thats not your problem.
 

Brian766

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The timing belt is good.When it stalled it was always coming off the line so,yes,the tach was zero.But now when the engine cranks the tach moves(about 150 rpms).As far as the gap goes,I did not specifically gap it.
 

SHO--ripper

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Not gapping the CPS might be your problem :( . It has to be .3mm away from the crank vane to insure that it doesn't rub; so it will get a proper reading. I would check the codes so you don't take everything apart for no reason rant . Good luck and keep posting. Your SHO will be on the road again thumb .
 

SHO--ripper

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Then again if the tach moves i think that the CPS might be good :confused: . It could be a camshaft position sensor or CID. I would buy a code reader from sears for $30 before doing anything else. Or use the paper clip trick.
 

Mr Anonymous

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SHO--ripper:
Did the tach drop to 0 when the car stalled? Did you gap the CPS to .3mm? I would put di-electric grease on the back of the DIS, but thats not your problem.
Uh, the proper CPS gap is .030" or .76mm.

Brian766, check to see if you are getting spark. You're going to want to gap the CPS properly. You should also verify the integrity of the wiring harness to the coil pack and make sure there are no damaged wires.
 

sdpatt

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Your problem sounds more like a temperature related fuel pump failure. When the crankshaft position sensor fails it is all or nothing - not just stumbling or running "lousy," but no running at all. Period.

The gap on the crankshaft position sensor is .03" (.762mm), NOT .3mm.
 

SHO--ripper

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Brian766 sorry about misinforming you about the gap. I must have mixed the .03 with .3 shrug
 

Brian766

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I have no spark and the CPS is not rubbing the crank,but a did set it by eye.I,m going now to try to pull codes. Thanks Guys
 

89 black SHO mtx

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brian766,
just a thought to run by you. my cam sensor went out on me about 6 mths ago. it didn't exactly stall off the line but if you didn't gas on it pretty good it would stall. also the cam sensor can cause a no spark condition. it did on mine. but i could roll it off to start it??? weird huh? mine didn't show a cid problem in the memroy(koeo) codes just the engine running (koer) codes. i am in no way saying this is your problem. but its just a thought to run by you. as a mechanic myself i had trouble figuring it out. so i sent it to the dealership. well 4 hours later they called and said i needed a maf and a cps. i puit them on and still no start. with the key. cranking just fine but no fire??? pused it off at the shop i work at pulled the codes again and there was the cid code again i thought well i spent enough on the maf and cps from ford why not put the $30 cam sensor in well to sum it all up. i paid ford almost $500 to sell me some parts i didn't need and to have a guy hook a computer up and read the codes. i had already done that and still no fix. the maf was no t a code but the ford tech said its date code was old and should be replaced and that it would help. now my sho starts up at the drop of a dime. please forgive the long winded rambling and jumbled thougths.
 

Brian766

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OK so I took it apart again,checked the gap and then tried to start it(still apart)and still no go.I then,for giggles,put the old sensor back in and still no go.I tried to pull codes and got a 33(EGR I think)? Now What??????? headbang headbang shrug
 

sholady

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Try to find someone with a good DIS and swap it out. If it starts and clears up, then thats your problem. If not, then try the CID. I have a similar problem, and when it acts up again and doesn't start I'm changing the CID. Just my two cents. cheers Good Luck :)
 

Brian766

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What is the DIS? What does it do? Could I have screwed it up? And how much is this going to cost me? headbang I read that when you crank the engine to help loosen the crank bolt,the DIS should be unpluged.Is this to prevent the car from starting or to prevent damage to the DIS? Could this be my lack of spark problem? shrug :confused: Thanks
 

Mike Kopstain

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Brian,

The DIS (Distributor-less ignition System module or at least I think that's what it stands for :) ) is located on the crossover tube of the intake, specifically, the part of the intake that you would have to remove when getting to the timing belt cover areas.

There are three things here that you want to check:

1. Pull a spark plug wire, stick a flathead screw driver in it, and set it on a metal surface. Have a friend crank the engine. If you get a spark from the screwdriver to the metal surface, put everything back together; your problem is not the DIS or CPS.

2. If no spark with the above test, check for proper grounding for the DIS. There is a ground cable that goes to the passenger rear intake support. If this ground is not connected, you won't have a spark.

3. Check the bolts for the crossover tube to the rest of the intake. These bolts have to be in, otherwise the car won't start.

Good luck.

<small>[ April 26, 2003, 12:13 AM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>
 

BeatDaSHO

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u tried to start it with it apart?? what did u have apart??? you basically need to put everything back together to have it start. your starting problem is the gap on the cps. gap it correctly. not with ur eye. now with the problem shutting off, i'm going to have to go with SDPatt on this one and say that it's a fuel pump related failure.

Greg
 

Brian766

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thumb Mikeys_Taurus hit it on the head,a bad ground. hail hail So now I have spark and she starts but still runs like crap! :( Hesitation,stumbling at lower rpms and stalls off the line or when sitting at the light in drive (when warm only).In the morning,when she's cool she runs like a SHO :confused: THANKS!!!
 

SHO--ripper

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Have you checked your codes? How old is your fuel pump? I would first try replacing your fuel filter ,$20-$30.
 

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