TREpaNaTion
Local Metal SHO
I currently own a 93 MTX, My TOB currently went out and im in the process of working up enough cash to fix that. I have been thinking as well of some other things that I dont exactly know as to whats wrong with it. Im not very mechanically inclined however I do know a few things and am a very fast learner.
First off - When I first purchased this car it ran like a dream and I kept it updated with proper maintinance on it. About 4 to 6 months after buying the car the Cruise Control stopped working. No big deal over all to me but Im curious as to why when this quit working on me, my horn as well no longer works and lastly my air bag light comes on consitantly now. Ive talked to many people and they have thrown a few ideas my way but none of them have seemed solid.
Secondly - I have looked over quite a few of the forums and seen a lot of talk about "WOT" Im curious as to what this term means if anyone could help me. I noticed this when I was reading through a chugging thread of some sort. As what was posted seemed relavent to what was happening with my vehicle as well at times.
Ive been experiencing problems with my car around 4k RPM's that my car would have full accelleration up till this point when i would have it down to the floor and soon as it hit 4k it would litterally send me forward as it lost all power. I noticed however that when it got close to 4k rpm's that if it begins to lose all its power I let off the gas and then ease on it slower puting it back down to towards the floor that it will pick up just a bit slower then it normally would.
Im guessing it could be my secondaries possibly? as someone said but when this happens and it doesn't open how to do you take care of this problem. Further More I as well know for a fact that my throttle cable is good because i just replaced that before my TOB went out on me.
Another Question is that in the future I am going to be looking to start upgrading a little by little as I get the current problems taken care of and such.
My current project is to replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate and TOB. I am as well thinking of in the next year or so placing a Turbo into the car but if im to go that route is what would a good suggestion be as far as the Clutch Upgrades and so on rather then running a stock clutch because from what i have heard they are pretty weak and cant take to much of a beating if you really drive the car a bit harder then most. As well What sort of turbo / Supercharger would you suggest is most cost effective for what it is?
Current Set up - Some sort of Mod Chip - Was Told 30lb injectors? (or something as far as the guy i bought it from said. Then again i could be wrong), K&N, different exhaust set up not sure on exactly what though.
Sorry for the story but im very interested in getting this car running stronger and smoother.
-Trent
First off - When I first purchased this car it ran like a dream and I kept it updated with proper maintinance on it. About 4 to 6 months after buying the car the Cruise Control stopped working. No big deal over all to me but Im curious as to why when this quit working on me, my horn as well no longer works and lastly my air bag light comes on consitantly now. Ive talked to many people and they have thrown a few ideas my way but none of them have seemed solid.
Secondly - I have looked over quite a few of the forums and seen a lot of talk about "WOT" Im curious as to what this term means if anyone could help me. I noticed this when I was reading through a chugging thread of some sort. As what was posted seemed relavent to what was happening with my vehicle as well at times.
Ive been experiencing problems with my car around 4k RPM's that my car would have full accelleration up till this point when i would have it down to the floor and soon as it hit 4k it would litterally send me forward as it lost all power. I noticed however that when it got close to 4k rpm's that if it begins to lose all its power I let off the gas and then ease on it slower puting it back down to towards the floor that it will pick up just a bit slower then it normally would.
Im guessing it could be my secondaries possibly? as someone said but when this happens and it doesn't open how to do you take care of this problem. Further More I as well know for a fact that my throttle cable is good because i just replaced that before my TOB went out on me.
Another Question is that in the future I am going to be looking to start upgrading a little by little as I get the current problems taken care of and such.
My current project is to replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate and TOB. I am as well thinking of in the next year or so placing a Turbo into the car but if im to go that route is what would a good suggestion be as far as the Clutch Upgrades and so on rather then running a stock clutch because from what i have heard they are pretty weak and cant take to much of a beating if you really drive the car a bit harder then most. As well What sort of turbo / Supercharger would you suggest is most cost effective for what it is?
Current Set up - Some sort of Mod Chip - Was Told 30lb injectors? (or something as far as the guy i bought it from said. Then again i could be wrong), K&N, different exhaust set up not sure on exactly what though.
Sorry for the story but im very interested in getting this car running stronger and smoother.
-Trent
As far as a clutch, If you are serious about boosting it in the near future, my opinion is to get Midwest SHO/Wbody store STAGE 2 clutch kit and get Josh's ceramic TOB 
For your power loss issue, I AGREE, check the fuel system out first. How long has it been since the filter was replaced? What is your pressure? Low/weak? High? I AGREE, sounds like your steering wheel issue is the-clockspring. ALSO, I own a professional shop style scanner and can scan your car, pull code and erase them resetting you check engine light. If you need/want a hand let me/us know. 
) Only Code I had seen that I had taken care of before was 123 TPS above max voltage. I then replaced my TPS and it went away and figured that There was nothing wrong then after words. As well i figured that since it quit flashing other then my airbag light staying on that Everything was okay. but from reading through the link that rockledge gave me I will be trying that out tomorrow if im not to tied up from my Dentist Visit. I feel stupid for asking some of these questions but only one way to learn is by asking them. 
When you are ready to dig in it for the TOB, clutch let me know. I will come up and walk you though the process if you like. A fuel pressure test kit runs about $30.00-$40.00 at a local auto parts store(will come in handy as it will test many cars). Use the schrader valve on the fuel rail(looks like valve stem for tire). pressure at idle should be 33.5-39psi. What you have fo a list is a good start. 
