Need technical info on 3.2

[<SLV>]

I just picked up a 1994 3.2 ATX, and I'm going to be completely rebuilding it. I'm going to keep it NA, but I want to max out the potential. I'm planning on doing the following things inside the engine:

1. Off-center grinding the crank to lengthen the stroke
2. Zero-decking (custom con-rods?) for ideal quench
3. DCR at 8.5:1 for max compression on street gas (dish pistons if necessary)
4. Larger valves
5. Cams

Outside the engine I will do:

1. Underdrive pulleys
2. 80mm Ford MAF
3. LPM chip
4. Custom cat-back exhaust (single)
5. K&N snorkel
6. BB Butterflies

Did I mention this is going in a '95 Windstar?

Anyway, I need some specs for my DCR calulator. Does anyone know where I can get really thorough internal engine measurements? For instance:

1. Combustion chamber displacement (3.2)
2. Factory con-rod length
3. SHOshop cam specs (stage 1)
4. Head gasket thickness/bore

Thanks for your help! My Windstar will keep the bone-stock look... hope to surprise you on the street someday!

PS - I'll be removing the back seats and spare tire, and replacing the carpet with a rubber mat. This should put my weight real close to a factory SHO.

 

[SinisterSHO]

I'm confused why you are going with a lower than stock compression ratio if you are staying NA.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Just put a 100 shot on it.

 

[SuperHO]

From the info i've read concerning offset grinding the crank on a SHO, you might have reliability issues. the old SHOshop strokers i guess put out some power, but usually didn't last past 15,000 miles. and for what it's worth, sounds like you're gonna be spending a shit ton of cash for about 250Whp....a simple zex kit would probably net you the same power for less than a grand.

 

[Sho Amo]

search the forum for the sho engine book

 

[zblackbeast]

search the forum for the sho engine book

edit: here ya go http://alfitz.com/SHO_Engine_Book.pdf

I would remove that link.. Something about copyright infringement.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Zex it and save your money.

 

[Sho Amo]

I would remove that link.. Something about copyright infringement.

i can see where your comin with that but i doubt theyd care. not my link anyways

 

[jthod]

REMOVE IT!!

Bad things can, and do happened!

'nuff said.


As for the van, interesting project, but just juice it. All those other parts will buy you several bottles of NO2, and get you half as far.

 

[hawkeye18]

yes, please keep all links to copyrighted material to ***.

 

[SuperHO]

Please keep this thread on topic. This guy's being the first besides ford to build a SHOStar, and ya'll are hijacking his thread over some horse shit that's been done many times before. Help this poor kid out and let's get on with it!

 

[Phoenix]

N/A = needs high compression for max power. And I would (well I already did) go with SHOnuts 40+ (stage2) or the new Triflow cams for max power.

And good luck with the LPM , the people who programs these chips are hard to get a hold of. I would go with a Tweecer.

Feel free to ask all the questions you might have on going N/A like many of us did , and its not the cheapest route.

 

[38SHO]

first things first... is this going to be an ATX?


I'd build your engine a little differently for a windstar...

stage 1 cams, BBB's, extrude hone intake manifold, gasket match heads, catless exhaust, and I'd do something special with it... this is where you'll really make some power imho... ditching the merge section or something..... true duals... 3" merge collector... search around

undrive pullies are a good idea, if its going to be MTX I'd also get a fidanza...

I'm with everyone else... your lowering the compression ratio, the SHO already runs fine on regular gas.. this is not needed and a loss of power

save trying to custom build the motor... just replace the bottom end bearings, do a 60k service on it when u do the new cams, and you'll be happy for a long time........

all the money u save on pistons, rods, crank... could go into a really nice nitrous setup that will blow the doors off your planned setup

zex kit, FPR upgrade, fuel pump upgrade, and some copper plugs....


the only thing cooler then a SHO windstar... is a SHO windstar with nitrous!

 

[SuperHO]

:Stupid: or spend the same amount of money on a powerdyne supercharger setup and make a holy ********* full of power. a 400Whp windstar that's quiet until spool kinda gives me a chubby....and if you're planning on sticking with an auto (which would be a silly idea in my opinion), make sure you build the shit out of it regardless. and pics, fella....pics....

 

[luigisho]

Not sure why you want to decrease the cr that much.

Look for forum member Deaconblue's car and info on his stroker build.

I thought there might have been an issue with turned cranks or something in the past. Maybe info posted from nick chrimes or gary morell a good while back. Fuzzy memory if it was about boosted cars, track cars with crank work or something. Something about effects on hardening process of stock crankshaft.

 

[SuperHO]

Like I previously stated.....apparently, SHOshop had a few offset ground 3.6's running around....for a short while. The crank just didn't hold out. Not sure if offset welding it made it weaker or what, but they just didn't work out all that much.

 

[Geek SHO]

Word on the street is that Sung Choi's 3.6 or whatever radical SHO Shop configuration it was didn't last 1000 miles. But, don't take my word for it.

I also vote to just stick with nitrous or a blower. Maybe some forged pistons if you wanna get really serious, but you'd better start stocking up on trannies if that's the case. Take a grain of salt with my advice. I've never had a serious horsepower SHO.

Ever since seeing the photos of the SHOstar concept, (or maybe they were just well-rendered drawings), I had a strong desire for one. Good luck on your project.

 

[<SLV>]

Thanks for all the advice. It has become apparent to me that some of you need to read up on the difference between SCR and DCR. I will be INCREASING the compression ratio (dynamic) to 8.5:1. Static will probably be up in the 12s. Here is a good article and a GREAT software calculator: http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html.

I guess I'm old school. I get the impression that a lot of the newer tuner generation are all about bolt-on. I personally get a kick out of changing the engine from the inside out. If Yamaha truly did (as the rumors say) deliver a 300 hp 3.0 to Ford, then they did this inside the engine not with a bottle of juice or bolt-on MAF.

I think the 3.2 is capable of 300 hp (crank) NA with a correct quench distance (zero-deck) and street gas DCR (8.5:1 max).

I read about a kid who did .010 OC grinding of the crank to get the displacement to 3.3. This sounds much more reasonable than 3.6 liters.

I'm keeping the ATX, and that is the primary reason I decided on NA. Too much $$$ to make the ATX handle 500 hp. However, I don't really care for NOx. I'd lean toward SC if I was so inclined.

BTW... my "SHOstar" is going to look bone stock -- tan with the girly alluminum wheels. Hiding the exhaust is going to be a bit of a challenge, but I think I might go ahead and turn out a single pipe behind the passenger rear wheel even if it is twice as big as stock. If anyone asks I'll say, "Yeah, I put a muffler on it." Then I'll burn rice.

My Windstar has 241k on it, but looks like new. I rebuilt the 3.8 Essex 5 years ago (at 141k), and now I'm starting to get some piston slap from the general wear. I'll work on getting some pictures of my Windstar and the donor SHO.

 

[38SHO]

unless he did something odd, 3.3L's are usually bored out 3.2 blocks..........

however u rate your compression ratio, understand it looks wierd to us when u tell us a compression ratio number that is lower then stock.......... and then explain its so it runs good on gas.....

yamaha did a lot of work on this engine, I don't think its like your typical truck 350 sbc that could stand so much gain from work inside the block........ many people have ruined cranks trying to tinker with stuff....... this engine runs great, its balanced internally great, man I would seriously just leave the shortblock alone...

put in new main and rod bearings, change the seals, do a timing job complete with tensioner/water pump/seals/sensors, and adjust the valves correctly when u do a cam swap......... you will be more then pleased for many years to come

these motors have been out for almost 20 years now... people know what works and what doesn't....... there aren't that many different part combinations to throw at these motors....... BBB's, ported intake, and a high flow catless y pipe are going to be your best sure fire mods to make power........... everything else is really a waiste of time or money or both.......

and comming from someone who came from 3.8 power to SHO power....... your going to love the SHO engine and how that thing revs to redline!



I applaud u for wanting to do more then the next guy....... but seriously... what lays ahead of you doing just what I said..... and swapping it into a Windstar... is a ton of work already that nobody has ever completed..... **** just put a stock SHO motor into a windstar and you have done yourself a big accomplishment.....

 

[<SLV>]

I guess not many people know about Dynamic Compression Ratio. It is a completely different number than SCR. I think the SHO engine can benefit from someone doing the math and building it to run on 93 octane with a DCR of 8.5:1.