Need help! My SHO is not running well at all!

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CitizenOne

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First, let me give a bit of the back-story: '93 SHO MTX. Body = 200K miles, Engine = 44K miles. I've owned this SHO since '97. Originally intended to do a complete restore, inside and out, and even super charge it. Collected all sorts of parts for about 10 years. Early last year, I began the restore, but by that time, priorities changed and instead of the full fix-up, I decided to just make it a daily driver. I had an engine that had 21,972 original miles that was taken from a rear-end collision donor. The engine had sat for 9 years before I got it. So, I completely disassembled it, and I mean COMPLETELY! Every part was cleaned and inspected; I even built an electrolysis tank to de-rust the block (which worked better than I expected). All the internals were checked for wear/out-roundness, all showed zero wear. Each cylinder still showed the factory, cross-hatch hone marks from top to bottom. I repainted the engine block and reassembled the engine, replacing all the original bearings with new, standard sized ones. I replaced each camshaft with new, OEM ones that I had collected over the years (I used the original ones in a different engine.) I replaced the oil pump with a new, OEM one. I replaced all the seals, and I even replaced every single sensor with new ones. I also replaced every coolant hose on the engine with new ones; I even had a new hose that has the metal section! (I know a guy who worked for Ford who was able to track down a lot of old-stock parts over the years.) Anyway, I say all this to highlight the point that essentially the only thing that I didn't replace in this low-mileage engine with new parts were the block, crank, pistons, rods, and bare heads. Almost every other moving part was new. I mated this engine to a freshly rebuilt MTX with a Quaiffe diff, installed it in the car, hooked up an all new SHO-Shop exhaust, connected all the hoses and wires, turned the key and the thing cranked up like it was new! It idled at a perfect ~700 RMPs, and it has ran great for about 20K miles until now...
...So, here's my problem. About 2 weeks ago, the car started running sluggishly. It would start up fine, but from about 1500 to 2500 RPMs it would lose power and sound like it was missing. After passing 2500, the power would pick up again, and it would run fine. As of about 1 week ago, it started to occassionally have difficult starts. When turning over, it actually sounded like it was back-firing, and when it would finally start it would still sound like it was cutting out at the 1500-2500 range. Now, just today, the darn thing lost power in town when pulling out from a red light and then died completely on me. I coasted to the side of the highway, waiting about 20 sec and started it again. It fired right up and took me home. I've checked to see and there are no leaks, so I don't think is the CPS (I know what happens when they go out, the engine just dies. It doesn't lose power). I've checked and the coil pack is fine, the plug wires are new (20K), just as are the Motorcraft factory-spec plugs. Also, I've verified that there's no oil in the plug wells, thinking that maybe a couple were fouling out due to pooled oil. I know alot about the assembly of these engines, but I have honestly never had to do much trouble-shooting over the years with any of my 4 SHOs (only have 2 now) cause I've always been meticulous about preventative maintenance. Now, I've got so little time to troubleshoot these days, and being that literally every sensor under the hood has only 20K miles on them, do you guys have any advice on what I should check first? Thanks in advance for any help!

CitizenOne
 

CademiaX

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maybe a bad dis module, have you checked that?

or maf sensor, unplug it and fire it up

I would assume the intake and all is clean...

could also disconnect the cam sensor and see that clears it up, tach wont work when you do that tho, and the cel will light up
 
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Mr Anonymous

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Start by reading the codes (link in my sig).

Betcha find a 214. ;)

You might also want to give the MAF a cleaning.

Welcome to the forum! :wave:
 

rubydist

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imho, time as much the enemy as miles, so the fact that your nos parts don't have many miles doesn't let them off the hook - they still can be bad.

in addition to what has already been suggested, the tps, ccrm, and/or coils should be suspects.
 

CitizenOne

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Code 214?...

CID circuit failure? That's the crankshaft censor, right? I just disconnected it and took a quick 1/2 mile drive down to a gas station to fill the old girl up. (I think I got gipped, cause my SHO is supposed to have only a 13-gallon tank, but the pump said 15.5 gallons when it kicked off!) Any way, the car ran no better to the station. Once I had filled the tank, it took about twenty tries to get it cranked again. Pulling out of the station, it chugged like an old 4-banger running on 2 cylinders! Out of frustration, I floored it, and it took off once it started turning fast enough. Probably took it to the red line, but I don't know since the tach was dead. Ug! These things can be frustrating, but I guess its that way with any car. I'll try to check the codes tomorrow and report back.

Thanks,

CitizenOne
 

Mr Anonymous

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CID circuit failure? That's the crankshaft censor, right? I just disconnected it and took a quick 1/2 mile drive down to a gas station to fill the old girl up. (I think I got gipped, cause my SHO is supposed to have only a 13-gallon tank, but the pump said 15.5 gallons when it kicked off!) Any way, the car ran no better to the station. Once I had filled the tank, it took about twenty tries to get it cranked again. Pulling out of the station, it chugged like an old 4-banger running on 2 cylinders! Out of frustration, I floored it, and it took off once it started turning fast enough. Probably took it to the red line, but I don't know since the tach was dead. Ug! These things can be frustrating, but I guess its that way with any car. I'll try to check the codes tomorrow and report back.

Thanks,

CitizenOne
CID is the cam sensor (a/k/a CMP), which if you unplugged and were able to start and drive the car is exactly what you disconnected (the crank sensor/CPS/CKP would prevent the car from running at all if disconnected). I would not have recommended disconnecting it before running the codes, but oh well (basically you've pretty much guaranteed finding at least one CID code now).

Definitely read the codes before you try anything else and let us know what you find. :thumb:
 

93rev2sev

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Possible:

Fuel pump/filter: check pressure at schrader

MAF elements soiled/contaminated:Remove sensor from the housing, use MAF cleaner on elements (unplugging MAF sensor with the engine off and then taking a drive will give you immediate confirmation...CEL will illuminate).


These are items that even the best mechanics and diagnosticians have been known to overlook.

If it's neither of these things and you want to pull codes again...reset the computer and take a 30 minute drive before pulling codes.
 

boat

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As an MTX, unless it was a California car if I believe, they do not have EGR valves.

well maybe clean the egr or get new o2 sensor thats what is was doing to my dads

I agree with 93, it almost sounds like it is starving for fuel. I had a fuel pump put in wrong and it was mad sluggish. Check your other things like stated above.
 
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CitizenOne

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Just ran the engine codes...

Umm, guys, I think I've got some MAJOR problems...

Here are the codes:

KOEO
121 – Throttle position (TP) sensor out of self-test range.
157 – MAF circuit below minimum voltage.
211 – PIP circuit fault.
212 – IDM circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded.
214 – CID circuit failure.
219 – SPOUT signal defaulted to 10 degrees BTDC / SPOUT circuit open.
528 – Clutch switch (CS) – circuit failure
542 – Fuel pump secondary circuit failure.
556 – Fuel pump primary circuit failure.

KOER
173 – HEGO sensor indicates system rich (RH).
538 – Operator error (dynamic response / cylinder balance tests).
536 – BOO circuit failure.
521 – PSPS circuit did not change states.

Something's got to be wrong other than the parts showing the individual failures; there's no way that many things can ALL go bad at the same time, especially with less than 25K on them, right?????? If all these were really malfunctioning at the same time, would the engine even run? PLEASE HELP!!!!!

CitizenOne

P.S. First thing I thought of when I woke up this morning was, "Why did I pull the CID wire BEFORE I did the code check?" Guess I was't thinking; it was late and I was tired and frustrated. But, with all the flippin' codes that are showing up, I don't think it would have made any difference. Sigh!
 

93rev2sev

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clear the codes and run it...re-read the codes after it's been through the paces once or twice.
 

CitizenOne

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A new round of KOEO & KOER tests.

Well, I've finally gotten around to clearing the memory and doing a new round of code tests. Sorry it took so long; I've been REAL busy. So, here's the latest results after clearing memory and running the car around for a bit:

KOEO:
528 - Clutch Switch (CS) - circuit failure

KOER:
538 - Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (Engine Run Self-Test) or Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement or Invalide cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems.

536 - Brake On-Off (BOO) switch - circuit failure or not activated during Engine Run Self-Test.

521 - Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) - circuit switching not etected.

Well, I'm certainly relieved that after clearing the memory, most of the codes haven't reappeared. Further, the car seems to be running a bit better during the last few days, that is to say it isn't missing as much or as dramatically. Although, it now seems that it is loosing more power in the low RPM range, while not actually mis-firing as much. And, when I say it's loosing power in the low RPM range, I MEAN ITS LOOSING POWER! When I pull out from a stop, you'd think it was pulling a 20K-pound trailer behind it! Unless I absolutely floor it and peal out of the stop (which it will still do), the engine bogs down to around 800-1000 RPMs, but the funny thing is that it won't stall out. It hesitates at around 800 RPMs as I apply the gas for about 20 to 30 yards distance, and then lunges and takes of like I've got the pedal to the floor (which I don't). I don't know what to make of it all. Only the 538 code has anything to do with the actual running of the engine, and whether it's something to do with the CID or the TPS, I couldn't tell you. If there is something wrong with either of those two, why wouldn't the specific codes for the CID (126, 214) or TPS (121-125) show up? Any ideas guys?

Thanks,

CitizenOne
 

jmpSHO

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It's possible you could have a bad PCM. How many miles did you drive it after you cleared the memory?
 

32sho

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I am not sure you preformed the KOER test correctly. It looks like you were in doing a cylinder balance test. Clear the faults and retest. The KOEO test shows a faulty clutch switch. To check it remove the PCM connector and with a meter on harness pins 30 & 46 check that switch opens and closes when you press the clutch pedal. The switch provides information for adjusting fuel/air ratio and idle speed.
 

Vnuk1

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Unplug your MAF and drive the car with it unplugged and see what happens.
 

CitizenOne

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Ran about 75 miles between code readings. I'm certain that I did the KOEO and KOER tests correctly; I repeated the KOEO thrice and the KOER twice. Though, I'll run them again tomorrow. Since then, I've realized that the 536 and 521 codes will always show on the SHO's during KOER tests because the computer is programmed to allow a specific and short time interval wherein the tester is supposed to turn the steering left and right and press the brake pedal during the initial self-test phase (happens before the code beeps begin.) If the tester doesn't do any of these actions, the computer should always send the 536 and 521 codes because it received no input from those sensors when it expected to. Anyway's that leaves me with the 538 code - Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (Engine Run Self-Test). And this description sounds like what the car is doing now. Its RPM's aren'y climbing as they should as the throttle is opened. I know that's a simplistic description and not meant as a technical diagnosis.

Out of curiosity, what is unplugging the MAF supposed to tell me. Does the engine simply start injecting fuel at a specific ratio to the engine speed instead of metering the fuel to the otherwise measured air density? If so, how differently should it run; better or worse? And, do the rest of you guys think it's a good idea to do so for diagnostic purposes.

Thanks,

CitizenOne
 

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