Need help....just replaced PTO in my 2013 non-pp, and car wont start

[Kphoenix07]

Hey guys and gals. I am in meed of help...quickly.
My pto/transfer case blew last week. I put in the new one. But now the car wont start.
When i fist went to start it...all came on but it just did a dash ding/beep at me(when i pushed start), and it would not start. Everything came on like normal..at first. I then threw the battery charger on it for a minute. After i tried starting it again, headlights went into strobe mode and twilights stayed on...but now nothing in the car would come on. I have the car stuck on my lift and cannot get to the fuse box because of the dumb location.
I was thinking maybe it wasnt in park and thats why it beeped at me. Back story on that is the connector from shifter to transmission was disconnected and my brother was playing with the lever on the trans. Now i am not sure where park is...or how to adjust that slider connector where it attaches to the trans.
Any ideas will be helpful!!!

 

[Kphoenix07]

*update*
Got her started but she shifts really hard..so hard i wont drive it. I only went through the gears to make sure linkage was where it needed to be.

There is a MIL on...something with the trans/awd system having a fault.

Called a mechanic buddy that works at a Chrysler dealership...he said that the trans has to be reprogrammed/adjusted at the dealership.

Anyone hear anything lile that??

If it is true, this will be the first time, in my many years, that it was something i could not do in my polebarn...first time ever taking a car to the dealership for anything more than a free oil chaange.

 

[luigisho]

Modern cars really benefit from advanced scan tools that are above just a code reader. You can drill down and see alot of data. You could always pull whatever codes you can get your hands on and go from there yourself. Lots of internet info floating around.

 

[sperold]

I have heard that when you change a rear differential unit, that the car has to be reprogrammed. So it is not out of the question that you have to do it for the transfer unit as well.

 

[6500rpm]

RDU or Transmission=yes. PTU=no. Double check all your grounds and any connectors you disconnected, or harnesses you may have stretched. Nothing in the PTU other than big clunky gears and a temp sensor on the PP cars.

 

[Kphoenix07]

I double..triple checked everything.
I was thinking that same thing...no electronic connections to the ptu. With that being said...i did have to disconnect driveshaft. Then obv spin it to bolt it back together.
Would not bolting driveshaft in exactly the same orientation, be the same as replacing the rear pig?
By the way...it took me less time to pull the cradle, than it did for me to change the rear diff fluid. Lol

 

[SuperPete]

can you see if you getting fuel?
Myself and few other guys lost the fuel pump module recently, ford has really for it.
Unplug fuel link before the high pressure fuel pump, crank engine and see if any fuel comes out, just for heck of it, who knows

 

[yaycandy]

I had similar issue when i had my engine replaced and a drainplug put into my ptu when it was out. I think the Crank relearn on sct device fixed all of it, since i didnt have Ford do the work. Maybe worth a shot

 

[Kphoenix07]

can you see if you getting fuel?
Myself and few other guys lost the fuel pump module recently, ford has really for it.
Unplug fuel link before the high pressure fuel pump, crank engine and see if any fuel comes out, just for heck of it, who knows

It is getting fuel. I got her started. Now i am dealing with really hard clunks when going into drive.

I had similar issue when i had my engine replaced and a drainplug put into my ptu when it was out. I think the Crank relearn on sct device fixed all of it, since i didnt have Ford do the work. Maybe worth a shot

I am a LMS tuned guy. Their shifting is hard as it is. I would throw on the return to stock tune...but it wont run right with the 3bar map.

 

[jman1200]

I double..triple checked everything.
I was thinking that same thing...no electronic connections to the ptu. With that being said...i did have to disconnect driveshaft. Then obv spin it to bolt it back together.
Would not bolting driveshaft in exactly the same orientation, be the same as replacing the rear pig?

Not sure if you took the drive shaft apart when you removed it from the PTU, If you did, you need to make sure it is phased correctly otherwise it will cause vibration and eventually it will self destroy. https://managedmobile.com/driveshaft-phasing-importance/

This hard shifting, is it all on the lift? This suggest you have not done a road test: Got her started but she shifts really hard..so hard i wont drive it. I only went through the gears to make sure linkage was where it needed to be.
Without any resistance shifting will not feel the same, take it out for a quick drive and see.

 

[Kphoenix07]

Besides disconnecting the drive shaft from the transfer case, i did nothing to the driveshaft.
As for the test drive...it was too rough for me to risk it.
I gave up and for the first time..ever..i sent it to the dealer. Should hear from them today on whats going on.

 

[Kphoenix07]

Update: turns out it was a bad battery guys and gals. Never in my life.
When i put everything back together, there were dead cells in the battery. So as the car was trying to relearn, the voltage was too low, and it corrupted the data.
Switched the battery...loaded the tune from calibrator. Done.
Have a lil studder in the low end at high acceleration...but i think an alignment will take car of that.

 

[SM105K]

Batteries are overlooked, and our cars seem to like to eat them.

 

[Kphoenix07]

Never even crossed my mind that the programming could get messed up that bad.

What sux is the stutter did noy get fixed by the alignment.

Took apart the front end and a brand new cv shaft..replaced it when i did the ptu...was snapped. So i replaced it...stutter is still there. Ripping apart the passenger side to see if that one is snapped too.

If it is not...does anyone have an idea what the stutter is? Running out of ideas.

Casual driving is fine. Just at 50% or higher acceleration between 10-20 mph. Full acceleration after 35. No stutter.

When i say stutter..thing of driving over washboard styled *** holes on a dirt road.

 

[Zpak]

My one year old to the month battery decided to quit on me while I was flashing a tune. What a pain in the D that was.

 

[SM105K]

Never even crossed my mind that the programming could get messed up that bad.

What sux is the stutter did noy get fixed by the alignment.

Took apart the front end and a brand new cv shaft..replaced it when i did the ptu...was snapped. So i replaced it...stutter is still there. Ripping apart the passenger side to see if that one is snapped too.

If it is not...does anyone have an idea what the stutter is? Running out of ideas.

Casual driving is fine. Just at 50% or higher acceleration between 10-20 mph. Full acceleration after 35. No stutter.

When i say stutter..thing of driving over washboard styled *** holes on a dirt road.

Have you checked your trans fluid?

 

[Kevin81]

Never even crossed my mind that the programming could get messed up that bad.

What sux is the stutter did noy get fixed by the alignment.

Took apart the front end and a brand new cv shaft..replaced it when i did the ptu...was snapped. So i replaced it...stutter is still there. Ripping apart the passenger side to see if that one is snapped too.

If it is not...does anyone have an idea what the stutter is? Running out of ideas.

Casual driving is fine. Just at 50% or higher acceleration between 10-20 mph. Full acceleration after 35. No stutter.

When i say stutter..thing of driving over washboard styled *** holes on a dirt road.

Thats what I get as well, but only when the wheel is turned all or most of the way to the left or right.

Turning off traction control lessens the effect.