Need help and wiring diagrams.

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zach44102

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OK today i felt like working on my blue turd and come to find out i now have no spark and no fuel pump prime. The only prime i get from the pump is a fart when i first turn it on. I tested for 12v at the inertia switch and i got 6.5 volts. I tested a few prongs on the ccrm plug and got 12v on one or two, and i have 2 good (at least one good)... With both ccrm's i get 6.5v at the inertia switch. If somebody could provide some insight or diagrams of the wiring on the ccrm it would be appreciated.

Im working on testing for spark now so i will update on that issue.

EDIT: I dont know how i fixed it but i plugged my inertia switch back in and hooked up my old ccrm and i now have a full fuel pump prime and 39psi at the rails. Now im still stuck with no spark. I tested for 12v at the coil pack and got 10.5v. So i am suspecting the crank positioning sensor but i allready replaced it and gapped it correctly. But doesnt a chopped up cps or bad cps throw a code? I ran the codes and got 126 and 556.

EDIT part II: disconected the battery the clear the codes and hooked it back up and i have no fuel pump prime anymore, This thing has a mind of its own. Also why would my ccrm click whenever I unplug the DIS?
 
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vortex2450

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Zach, that's a wild one you've got. I guess I was lucky, my wiring just dropped into place and worked first crank :p

I would focus on the fuel pump first. Let's get that out of the way...
I'm not sure but I believe after the CCRM the next stop for the wiring to the fuel pump is the Power distribution box, the fuel pump fuse is labeled EEC something something, try pulling that fuse and cleaning it up, and cleaning the connectors (female end) with some MAF sensor cleaner could help as well, I would also just replace the fuse and be certain at that.

Also, disconnect the batt and try cleaning and reseating the terminals main 12v wire that feeds the power distro box, you never know but the only way to be sure is to to it anyways.

Try that and see if it makes any difference.


-Josh
 

zach44102

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Dude i picked up extra shifts at work so working 7 days a week pretty much. All i have found out is my ccrm clicks whenever i disconect the DIS and i dont think thats supposed to happen.
 

zach44102

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I still use the original ignition switch. Just no key. The metal prong on the ignition module under the kick panel I just push it forward with my finger. But could that take away all spark and send only 6v to the fuelpump half of the time. Souds like I have a bad ground somewhere but I have no clue where to look
 

Off Road SHO

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I still use the original ignition switch. Just no key. The metal prong on the ignition module under the kick panel I just push it forward with my finger. But could that take away all spark and send only 6v to the fuelpump half of the time. Souds like I have a bad ground somewhere but I have no clue where to look

If you're reading 6 volts with a volt ohm meter, I'm assuming that you are grounding the meter back to the battery negative post, so it's not a bad ground. The ignition switch (the one under the knee guard) is a slide switch and when the contacts wear down or get gummed up with grease and dirt, you're going to have issues. That being said, that is precisely why they don't send large amounts of current through that switch. They use the CCRM with all of its relays to do the switching of mega current.

Tom
 

intimdatr

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have you checked all your intake grounds? ALL of the blots back in with the brace towers where they ground to CLEAN and SHINY. ive found this will cause all sorts of ****. check the CCRM ground, you may have the wonderful luck of 2 bad CCRMS?

i just got done dealing with this on my 92...god is it annoying.

Also the key thing sounds, well weird and maybe causing awkward and incomplete connections??? got anything to swap with to check?
 
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zach44102

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Well that ignition switch is only 6 months old. so i dont think thats the problem, Im not fimiler with the wiring on the car so i have no clue how the ccrm and DIS are connected, i thought it was two completly different systems.
 

zblackbeast

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Ok, so this is what ive got.. To check to make sure your WIRES arent toast and its just a sensor problem check the continuity from connector to connector
i used this diagram to help me locate the wires that went where...

DISDiagram

Now put it on ohms doesnt really matter where (correct me people if im wrong) and plug one end here on the connector that goes TO the crank sensor from the engine harness and to the black clip on the DIS from the engine harness.
2011 06 02 20 17 29 931


Now if that checks out, your wiring is good there. Now, for the grey clip on the DIS, there are three white wires with different color stripes.. all those go to the coil pack.. plug one of the leads into the clip from the DIS and match it to the clip on the coil pack clip make sure all is well there.. I didnt want to take the top end of my car apart tonight so you can go hunt for the CMP wires yourself with that diagram. Of all the wires check out OK its either your PCM/ECU under the dash (which i have an X2J or whatever if you need me to send it to you) or one of the sensors is still faulty.. My multimeter doesnt have a good enough refresh rate to crank the motor and see if the signal wire has spike/dips ( i cant remember which is does, but i know every time one of those three tips passes over the CPS itll chance the signal (hurp durp)). Thats how you can test if the CPS is good (we did it plugged in last summer to Tim's SHO).

Remember to have the KOEO for this (obviously your engine will be off cause it doesnt run) Hopefully this helps point you in the right direction..
 
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zblackbeast

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oh i forgot to add these 2 pictures...

2011 06 02 20 17 38 632

and make sure this ground is connected.. ignore the massive rust hole in my strut tower... :) Ill be fixing that this summer....

2011 06 02 20 18 58 820
 

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