Need coolant hoses

[Nuke]

I need some help from you guys. The other night I was coming home and lost coolant. Had my mechanic rip it apart, and I popped one of the lines going from one of the heads into the top of the coolant reservoir. Also, when he took it apart, the plastic Y broke.

So, I am asking if anyone has a set of hoses to sell me so I can put my baby back on the road. I have dumped thousands into it this last year since I like it so much and want to keep it.

Here are a couple of pics so you can see what I need. I would like all 3 hoses and the plastic Y. New would be awesome, but good and used would be OK. And I am more than happy to pay for them.

Please help me out and get my car back on the road.

 

[E1]

Hey Nuke. Long time no talk. You definitely do NOT want to put that stupid plastic Y fitting back in there. Where did the first one get you?

Here is what you want to do. Replace the two small hoses and the Y fitting.

Keep the long hose, I don't think I have ever seen that one go bad unless it was rubbing on the power steering pulley. Throw out the other hoses and Y fitting. You can probably reuse the hose clamps depending on the outside diameter of the hose you obtain.

Go to your favorite hardware store and pick up a brass Tee and screw three 3/8" brass hosebarbs into it.

Go to your favorite auto parts store and get 1 ft of 3/8" ID coolant hose.

Find a way to get the hoses onto the barb in between the heads. Which hose on which barb doesn't matter too much - the coolant will flow towards the degasser tank. Make sure the hoses are not kinked and put it all back together.

 

[gamefanatic]

Follow what E1 said. I went to my local part store and had them look for any in-stock 3/8ths hose for any vehicle that had a 90° bend and got those. To properly replace / upgrade the plastic Y fitting I used the following from newegg.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93X69180

While you are in there you may want to look at your main water lines. If they haven't been replaced in a while and are overly soft or cracking. Now would be a good time to get at those. Don't forget the really pesky heater core lines, those are between the engine and the firewall.

 

[stephen newberg]

I am in complete agreement with both of the above.

pax, smn

 

[luigisho]

x everyone above. picked up one of these back in the day from local autoparts store https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-brass-tee-connector-3-8-in.-788-031/10120224-P

 

[Nuke]

Bought 2 U Hoses and a brass T fitting. Mechanic made it work. Have not gotten it back yet since it has decided for the last 2 months to discharge the battery in about 48 hours. So now he is chasing the electrical gremlins.

Thank you guys ever so much for the advice guys.

 

[98SF19]

it has decided for the last 2 months to discharge the battery in about 48 hours

Money's on the football.

 

[98SF19]

I know your issue is wrapped up Nuke, but since you posted it (thank you!), I decided to replace the plastic wye with brass tee as well, and posting here for benefit of others . . .

I just used regular 3/8" hose and also trimmed the end of hose to reservoir which had the spring clamp stamp. See below for pics of original state and old hoses removed and cleaned. I think I could have kept the old hoses, I just don't like the spring clamp "stamp" at ends. You'll notice one of the 2 is a bit more bulged out than the other, supposedly from a constriction. This is either the result of accumulated crap (which I observed after removing old hoses), or the broken off wye ends.


Shots after upgrade.
The hose to front bank is about an inch longer than the other one IIRC and comes into the side barb of brass tee, so I hope this doesn't cause a lower flow through that hose, though I guess if you want either to flow more, it would be the rear.

 

[Nuke]

Money's on the football.

I will bite. What football?

 

[98SF19]

The radio/ac head unit. It's a common cause of parasitic draws, and the heat sink on the back will get super hot under this condition if left alone.

 

[gamefanatic]

More specifically the cassette tape portion. The mechanical sensor may go bad and not report to the unit that a tape is fully inserted. Another issue may be the motors may not always produce enough torque to eject the tape. The radio may or may not produce an error, and when you shut the car off it wont eject the cassette or SHOw any problems. When you look at your AMPs on the car you may see between 1.2-2.3 AMP draw on the battery while the cassette is inserted.
Youou can manually eject the tape if the unit has issues by pushing the slider on the left side in the cassette holder. It will slide back, be aware the cassette may come up and prevent a larger tool from pushing the bar back enough to get the tape out. I use a fairly skinny flat head.

 

[Nuke]

The casette unit is shot. I get an error code. Had some issues for a while.

Now here is the interesting thing. I told my mechanic that I believed it to be the head unit, so he physically removed the whole thing. Unhooked both the radio and HVAC completely and threw the whole unit in the back seat.

It still drained the battery even with it competely taken out.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. He had it 3 weeks and could not figure it out. Put a new BCM in it, that did not help either.

Thanks again.