"name that hose "

[windsormw]

My sho has been leakin water , for thas week or so . This hose is the culpret .

Any body got a part # or a name that i can give the dealer . I know what ur thinkin ............I am waiting for my cd manual as i type . ( not much of an excuse )


so please help me name that hose , leaking right @ the crimpt fitting . Also i scored some 4" alum. round stock .

Need a pics of cup style SFB's ............everyone seems pretty tight lipped about the dim. of any SFB's . Bottom line is . I'm cheap and would rather do it myself or maybe improve in an existing design and there could be a free set in it for the supplier ..........

[/IMG]

I'm not tryin to cut any ones grass ....... i'm Just Broke

 

[Mr Anonymous]

It's a coolant hose/tube that's obsolete so having the part number won't help much as you won't be able to find one!

If it's only leaking at the crimp and not rotted through anywhere, just remove the assembly from the car, cut off the crimp with a Dremel, and replace the hose with 3/4" heater hose and clamp it conventionally. Be very careful not to damage the CELO sensor in that tube, as it is also obsolete.

If you have the resources, I usually recommend media blasting the tube to clean off all the rust and scale, and then give it a good coat of enamel. Helps a NLA part last longer!

 

[Racer X]

AHHHH IT'S THAT DAMN HOSE!!!
That hose completely popped on me... on Christmas Eve no less!!

That whole pipe is obolete, and let me just say... Getting a Dremel in there? I've had an easier time parking a F-350 dually on the street in Downtown Manhattan at night during a snowstorm. I still don't remember how I got the Dremel in there to make the cut.

Definitely clean up that tube if you can, and clean up the area that the hose will mount to, to get a good seal. 3/4" is the hose size.

On the Al SFB's... I've been rockin mine for over a year, cup style. The design is rock solid, and thoroughly thought out. You can copy it if you ever find a set, but it's highly unlikely you'll be able to improve upon it.

 

[Devin]

Uh, that looks like an A/C fitting.

 

[Racer X]

Uh, that looks like an A/C fitting.

Yeah, it does, doesn't it? But it's not. Definitely a heater hose.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Getting a Dremel in there? I've had an easier time parking a F-350 dually on the street in Downtown Manhattan at night during a snowstorm. I still don't remember how I got the Dremel in there to make the cut.

Ummmmmm..... When you remove the hose/tube from the car, it's quite easy to use the Dremel to cut the crimp on a work bench, garage floor, wherever is convenient. I can't imagine trying to replace that little piece of hose without removing the hose/tube assembly from the car, which takes all of about 10 minutes.

Uh, that looks like an A/C fitting.

Huh? No, it looks exactly like the lower heater hose assembly going to the heater core. If you're talking about the vertical connection to the right (and 'closer' in the pict.), that's the speedo cable connection.

 

[DHMag]

It's a coolant hose/tube that's obsolete so having the part number won't help much as you won't be able to find one!

If it's only leaking at the crimp and not rotted through anywhere, just remove the assembly from the car, cut off the crimp with a Dremel, and replace the hose with 3/4" heater hose and clamp it conventionally. Be very careful not to damage the CELO sensor in that tube, as it is also obsolete.

If you have the resources, I usually recommend media blasting the tube to clean off all the rust and scale, and then give it a good coat of enamel. Helps a NLA part last longer!

Chris, would i be correct in saying that inside that crimp is a barbed ****** fitting ? IIRC, any hose with a machined crimp has a barbed ******. if that is indeed the case, i used a Dremel to cut the crimp, fileted the crimp open, then cut off the tabs and used hose clamps to seal it shut. for a heater hose, one clamp is sufficient. if it is A/C or power steering, id recommend double clamps.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Chris, would i be correct in saying that inside that crimp is a barbed ****** fitting ? IIRC, any hose with a machined crimp has a barbed ******. if that is indeed the case, i used a Dremel to cut the crimp, fileted the crimp open, then cut off the tabs and used hose clamps to seal it shut. for a heater hose, one clamp is sufficient. if it is A/C or power steering, id recommend double clamps.

It's actually just a single bubble flare in the tube itself, and IIRC the inside of the crimp is smooth. We tried having a local place re-crimp them, but apparently it required an unusual size crimp that we'd have to special order in like a 100 quantity.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Both Sieger (SHOSIG) and I completely blew ours out last week. I'd replace it before taking it up to 7k rpm next. Here is my replacement...

AHHHH IT'S THAT DAMN HOSE!!!
That hose completely popped on me... on Christmas Eve no less!!

That whole pipe is obolete, and let me just say... Getting a Dremel in there? I've had an easier time parking a F-350 dually on the street in Downtown Manhattan at night during a snowstorm. I still don't remember how I got the Dremel in there to make the cut.

Definitely clean up that tube if you can, and clean up the area that the hose will mount to, to get a good seal. 3/4" is the hose size.

On the Al SFB's... I've been rockin mine for over a year, cup style. The design is rock solid, and thoroughly thought out. You can copy it if you ever find a set, but it's highly unlikely you'll be able to improve upon it.

You could have removed the hose on the other end and removed the whole thing from the engine bay.

 

[SHOZ123]

You could get a 5/8" copper tee or 1/2" galvanized iron tee and connect the hoses to this while screwing the CELO switch to the tee opening.

The CELO being a two wire sensor does not need to be grounded.

 

[Racer X]

I was kinda leery about removing the other end of the hose from the heater core. I'm sure it's been on there for a pretty long time, and the last time I removed a hose from the heater core without slicing it off, I broke the heater core.

Contorting a dremel into place > replacing heater core.

 

[FamilySHO]

While the heater hose/tube set up is obselete you can still purchase the shaped portion of the heater hoses. FPN has them listed as follows:

E9DZ-18472-E Genuine Ford outlet heater hose $ 7.99
E9DZ-18472-D Genuine Ford inlet heater hose $10.99

Carefully cut off the crimp. My recollection is that you will have to use bulk hose for one end of the set up. Since I always seem to have a problem with coolant hoses leaking I would put two hose clamps on each end.

 

[JTSHO]

man, thats the same hose i busted last week...personally i think its a pain to get outta the car, but im sure the next time will be easier. i just cut it and put 3/4 in heater hose on it. i sceptical since it has no ribs on it so i ran the hose as far up as i could and double hose clamped it.

 

[omeara7]

I think I just blew that same hose last night. Is that hose at all connected to the heater core? The reason I ask this is because I pulled my A/C fuse when winter came around because I didn’t have any need for the a/c compressor kicking on when all I needed was heat. Also, I think my a/c system may be very undercharged or the clutch is the compressor is shot because it just kicks on and off, each time dropping the idle to 400 (nearly stalling). When I pulled the a/c fuse, I still get heat, unless I pull it while the eatc has no power to it (car is in the off position). Then, all I get is cool air. Is there something that blocks the heat from the core?