My Speaker Set-up

[SHO-Me-Up]

I know this thread probably exists 1,000,000 timest oh well .

I am going for the entire Pioneer system since it's decent and fairly inexpensive. Will Pioneer 6.5's fit in my front baskets? and will pioneer 6x9's fit in my rear baskets?

I already got a $200 50wx4 xm ready cd-reciever put in. I plan on getting 3 x 350 watts RMS 10" subs for the trunk and amps of course to support them.

If anyone can help me, it'd be appreciated!

 

[LOUDSHO92]

They should fit. The 6x9 might take some minor modifications. My friend has the new ones is Civic. They sould pretty good but have a low power handling ability. The 5ways are over **** for tweeters though. He got a really good deal in LA in some hole in the wall place.

If you get 3 subs make sure you get 6ohm or 12ohm subs so you can get the proper resistance.

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

well today was payday and i had to fork out $45 to some salvage yard for a new starter for my baby. There's a 91 day warrenty on it so i'll put it in tomorrow. I have some extra cash to foot into my in progress system so i'll look into it more.

 

[Hack]

The 6x9s can be installed from in the trunk upward. Or, Pioneer is one of the few manufacturers that make a real 6x8 to drop into the factory "basket". A myriad of other companys make 5x7s that have tabs to mount in the Ford 6x8 locations. The Pioneer 6.5" should bolt right into your doors. Good luck!

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

The 6x9s can be installed from in the trunk upward. Or, Pioneer is one of the few manufacturers that make a real 6x8 to drop into the factory "basket". A myriad of other companys make 5x7s that have tabs to mount in the Ford 6x8 locations. The Pioneer 6.5" should bolt right into your doors. Good luck!

well the reason i want the 6x9's is because they are midrange. I dont want the 6x8's because they don't do much for bass at all (my friends got them). If i can jerry rig the 6x9's to go in that'll be excellent.

 

[92sho16]

I had 10 inch eminence loudspeakers in my rear deck, i just opened up the existing holes with a jig saw. Theres no reason why you couldnt do the same for some 6x9s.

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

Ok, i think i've figured out how i want this setup... I'm asking all you audio people to let me know if this will work out efficiently.

The Hardware:
2 x 12" Subs (400w RMS Each)
2 x 6x9 Full Range Speakers (85w RMS Each)
2 x 6.5 Base Range Speakers (60w RMS Each)
2 x 3/4" Dome Tweeters (40w RMS Each)
1 x 50x4w CD-Reciever
1 x 1000w Sub Amplifier (1000w @ 2 Ohms; 600w @ 4 Ohms)
1 x 300w 4-Channel Amplifier
2 x 3-Pod Gauge Cluster (One will have 2 gauges and 1 tweeter; Other will be chopped to one Pod for the other tweeter)

*Assume all wiring kits are included*

Subwoofers: Wired into the 1000w Amplifier and possibly hooked to a capacitor later on.

6x9 Full Range's: Placed into the modified rear speaker baskets and hooked into channel 3 and 4 of the 300w Amplifier.

6.5 Base Range's: Placed in the original stock door baskets and wired into channel 1 and 2 of the 300w Amplifier.

3/4 Dome Tweeters: Placed inside the bottom of the 3-Pod Gauge Cluster on the driver side and the other placed inside the chopped pod for the passenger side. Both Tweeter's wired DIRECTLY to the Reciever.

*Assume the amplifiers are wired correctly to every componant*

Yes my Reciever has amp pre-outs

Will this set-up work efficiently?

 

[40BelowSummer]

Sounds like your on the right path, just curious whats the RMS rating on the sub amp or whats the model?

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

Well i looked at it in circuit city and it's a 1000w amp max and i believe the RMS @ 2 Ohms is 800w; and the RMS @ 4 Ohms is 600w. I know for sure that my subs will have only 300w out of the full 400w going since they are 4 Ohms. If my memory serves me right for Ohm's Law is (I'm almost certain this will be a parallel circuit) 1/R(total) = 1/R(1) + 1/R(2) + 1/R(3)... ect ect.


EDIT: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...B,00.html?compName=PNA_ProductDetailComponent

Thats the Sub Amp ^^^

Wow... Looking on that now... i might need another one since i have 2 subs... DAMNIT

Oooooooh... i can get 2 of these and it'll drive my subs for more power and half the cost!

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PIOGM5000T

 

[40BelowSummer]

that amp looks like its 600 x 1 @ 2 ohms

Are you subs SVC or dual voice coil?

Ohms law states: Series add the impedence of the components to get the total load (R1 + R2 = Rt) Parallel: R1 x R2 / R1 + R2 = Rt

If they are SVC then you should wire them in parallel for use with that amp

4ohm x 4ohm / 4ohm + 4ohm = 2 ohm load = about 600W RMS with that amp

Or this amp isnt bad for the price.... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XXqXgD...g=110&I=489AP2000&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Well for this setup I hope you plan on getting a large amp kits with a distribution block. The sub amp seems to be pretty good anyways. Well to have 300w is pretty good still. I would try and match the RMS as if you turn it up too much you could risk blowing them. The second sub amp you showed may only have the power at 2Ohms so you would need to get 2Ohm subs to do what you want. You could go with either setup, just make sure you get the right subs.

Both are correct for Ohms Law. Guitar you just mention a special case thats only good for 2 resistors.

What amp will you be running for the speakers. What is the watys at 4Ohms per each channel?

I have a very similiar setup to what you have infact I have 2 sets of tweeters, one for the front and one for the rear. I would highly recomend that you get a capaciator, as it will improve the sound and your lights wont dim.

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

My 12" Subs are Dual Voice Coil @ 4 Ohms...

They are already bought so i am not going to change them.

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PIOTSW305DVC

Also for the amps, i want to keep every system componant pioneer. So if there's a prime sub amp i could use to get the most out of those subs, that's what i'm looking for.

Also, will there be any problems with wiring th 3/4" Tweeters directly to the reciever rather then to the amp? I wont have any problems doing this?

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

I'm just going to post a link to every component i plan on getting:

These are the Subs... Two of these.

These are the 6x9's... 80w RMS So i lied...

These are the 6.5's

These are the 3/4 Dome Tweeters

This is my Reciever

This is the 4-Channel Amp (I could go higher wattage)

This is the Sub amp i was looking at... this is the amp where the debate arises

Let me know your thoughts and such.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Also, will there be any problems with wiring th 3/4" Tweeters directly to the reciever rather then to the amp? I wont have any problems doing this?

if you hook it up to the receiver you will need a crossover to only let high frequencies to the tweeters (high-pass)

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The tweeters have a crossover so you are fine. Though if it s a capacitator looking one then I would maybe see about somehting else. they do look good though. The speaker amp is pretty good, and you already will be seeing double what the head unit will be putting out.

For the sub amp I would get 2 of the second one you mentioned. You will only see either 300W or you will fry it with your subs by going down to 1Ohm. I owuld wire one sub to each amp and you should be okay. Wire each sub to do 2Ohms so you will be seeing near max handling.

The Pioneer 5-way are kind of overkill for all of the tweeters. You probably wont notice much of a difference over the 4-way. My room mate has them and they sound pretty good though.

I would recomend Monster Cable for wiring as their stuff is pretty good. They do have a slim profile RCA cables that are much smaller compared to standard RCAs. Also it only takes 1 wire to hold all 4 connectors. Instead of getting 2 RCA cables you would need this one set only. You will need a 4 guage wire and distrbution block that goes to 8guage wires. I would recomend a 1 farad cap to help the system at least. With the 4channel you have you have a pass through RCA output so you can get like a RCA cable and connect the sub amps to the 4 channel amp for their RCA connection. You will need to get a Y spllitter for the output.

If you need any help installing or have other questions you can get me on aim or aol at mstrofrx.

 

[K-Dawg]

Honestly (IMO), I don't think that will sound all that great. I've listened to the blue coned Pioneer speakers before in several different cars, and I was not impressed at all. I didn't think they sounded much better than stock speakers. If you are insistant on buying Pioneer, at least get the REV series, as they are at least "decent" sounding. Also, don't fall in the trap that says more "ways" are better. A simple 2-way speaker will sound as good, if not better than those 4- and 5-way speakers.

 

[SHO-Me-Up]

I must thank you guys for all your help on this. If i need 2 seperate amps for my subs then i'll do that.

K-Dawg

I admire all honesty, but in this case i've been to many audio rooms within different stores. I've listened to full systems of different companies. As far as my standards (so i dont speak for anyone but myself) i thought the Pioneer system was the best sounding system out of all the mid-quality systems. Of course Audiobahn, Alpine and Infinity are going to sound better, but i just dont have that kind of money. Compared to Sony and Rockford, I thought Pioneer sounded the best.

I welcome all opinions even if they don't support my likings.

One more question:

If i get 2 seperate amps for each sub... can i hook both amps to 1 compacitor? I'm not sure... I believe you can.

 

[K-Dawg]

If you've listened to the speakers and like the way they sound, then that is what you should buy. What matters in your stereo is that YOU like the way it sounds.

Don't waste your money buying 2 amps for a pair of subs. You need an amp that puts out 800x1 at 1 ohm or 4 ohms, or 400x2 at 2 ohms. I recommend the JBL BP600.1 for your situation. I'd buy it from SoundDomain.

Yes you'd be able to have multiple amps with a single capacitor, but with this setup (or any other IMO), a cap is simply not necessary.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Well the JBL you mnetion wont do the job. Again he would need 2 or else he would fry one. Now you could get the GTO 601.1 and that can handle 1Ohm. The only reason I suggested to get 2 amps, is to meet the demands of the subs he will need 2 amps. I dont know of any Pioneer amps handling 1Ohm. He already stated that he wanted Pioneer only so I made the suggestions along the lines of what he wanted. A cap probably will be necissary especially if there are 3 amps. I have a setup with 2 amps and a cap was needed. At the minimum it will improve the sound of the subs.

 

[K-Dawg]

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/JBLBP6001
No, the 600.1 is 1 ohm stable.

If you think you need a cap, generally there is a wiring problem.